DIY LED Canister Lamp

[bronk]

I just built a new LED canister lamp. 3 CREE XRE-R2 LEDs with a polished aluminum reflector from DealExtreme. 12v 4.5 AH battery. The LEDs are run in series have a constant current source regulator set for 930 mA
Photos (in my gallery) show a comparison of a UK Light Cannon on the left and my new light on the right. Distance is approx 24 feet.
The head is 2.5" diameter x 3" long. The canister is 2.5" x9" long. Latches and cable glands are DiveRite replacement parts.


I am having trouble with photo uploads failing in the message, but they made it to the photo gallery.

 

[350xfire]

Nice work! I am working on a 3x SSCP7.

 

[dave4868]

I am having trouble with photo uploads failing in the message, but they made it to the photo gallery.

If you'll permit me.... (to paste the image, open the image, copy the BB Code, paste the code into your posting) (OR- to get a linked thumbnail, copy and paste that code. Personally, I'm fond of the former.)

Nice work! (see bronk's shots below)

Dave C

 

[bronk]

Thank you Dave for getting my photos in.

350xfire. 3 of the SSCP7s will be very bright, and a bit more diffuse. The reason I did not go with those was fear of cooking them at full power. What are you doing special for heat sinking? How are you coupling the internal heat sink to the housing? My heat sink disk was a slip fit in the housing. Probably too loose for 35-45 watts of the 3 P7s with a reasonable temperature rise.

 

[HEFFAY]

I've heard the R2's can present a green-ish tint to them, have you noticed this? Sometimes it's hard to tell from pictures taken with camera's who try to auto adjust the tint settings.

 

[bronk]

They are a nice warm white No greenish color at all. Next to the HID they look warmer, not as blue.

In later shots comparing the color of the LEDs to that of my camera flash it seems reasonably close.

 

[350xfire]

I'm building the light head out of aluminum. There will be 2 layers, one for the wiring and the cable gland and one for the LEDs. The last poiece will be the lens. 1/4 inch polycarbonate.

 

[tharg]

are you using the buckpack driver or something else

 

[350xfire]

are you using the buckpack driver or something else

Nope, I am taking a risk and direct driving with 10 D cells (NiMH). I have built 2 MagLites with alkalines over driving one P7 at 4.5 volts without any problems.

The plus side of not using a driver is that you can run the P7 with only 3.7 volts at 3 amps. If you use a driver, you need closer to 4.5-5.5 volts to get 3A. Thus, you can make a smaller battery pack. I am taking a risk, but we'll see.

This one is being built as a video light so I want the flood. However, with 3 small reflectors, it focuses quite well. I think I will leave the reflectors in even for video.

I fired it up against my Salvo 21W LED and it definitely puts out more light, with reflectors. Has a bigger spot too. I am having the head machined flat today and should be put together by the end of the week.

 

[mddolson]

How did you heat sink the LED's?

Of the 10 (12V x0.9A) watts you're driving about 3/4 is heat!

Would be interesting to compare the output (lumens) to a 11 watt HID (which has similar current draw).

Mike D

I just built a new LED canister lamp. 3 CREE XRE-R2 LEDs with a polished aluminum reflector from DealExtreme. 12v 4.5 AH battery. The LEDs are run in series have a constant current source regulator set for 930 mA
Photos (in my gallery) show a comparison of a UK Light Cannon on the left and my new light on the right. Distance is approx 24 feet.
The head is 2.5" diameter x 3" long. The canister is 2.5" x9" long. Latches and cable glands are DiveRite replacement parts.


I am having trouble with photo uploads failing in the message, but they made it to the photo gallery.