OP
If the driver is the problem, I can machine the cured epoxy & board out of the pocket in my lathe. If it's the LED then just have to desolder it, remove the 2 screws , & resolder new star in place.
MR11 HID conversion to LED
- Thread starter mddolson
- Start date
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OP
I received a sample 50-2366FR thermally conductive polyurethane potting compound.
I hope to get it ready in the next couple of weeks. pdf file below..
I hope to get it ready in the next couple of weeks. pdf file below..
OP
Sorry for not updating this thread. Unfortunately my weekends have been busy in Brockville, getting my brother-in-law's house ready for sale. He's 76 & moving into a retirement home.
lucca brassi
Contributor
And now we have CEFTA with Canada 
OP
Finally got around to potting the driver into the heat sink last weekend.
I will post an update & photos this week.
I will post an update & photos this week.
OP
Finished the driver , lamp & cannister assembly. The cannister is a little big, it was designed for 10x NIMH c cells.But a little foam mat cut & placed worked nicely. The beam on the dry wall is at 10 feet, the screws are at 24" centers.
Nice benefit of using clear polycarbonate for the lid, I can see the batter pack LED is on or off.
Nice benefit of using clear polycarbonate for the lid, I can see the batter pack LED is on or off.
Attachments
OP
Caveeagle
Contributor
Any updates?
OP
I took the light on a wreck dive in St Lawrence River, 3rd week of July.
This was my first dive with the LED head & I am pleased with the output.
It was also a shakedown dive with my sidemount rig & my viking drysuit.
The canister was butt mounted, not on my belt (where I used have it: backmount diving).
I managed to bang it on a rock taking off my Nomad, & it cracked the clear polycarbonate cover at the toggle switch.
This is the weakest point, since it is recessed for the switch (on the inside).
So looks like I need to machine a new cover, I'm also looking for a switch with longer threaded mount so I can have more material thickness at the switch location.
The alternative is to change to ABS, or Delrin (not transparent) which are less notch sensitive, & less likely to crack during abuse.
This was my first dive with the LED head & I am pleased with the output.
It was also a shakedown dive with my sidemount rig & my viking drysuit.
The canister was butt mounted, not on my belt (where I used have it: backmount diving).
I managed to bang it on a rock taking off my Nomad, & it cracked the clear polycarbonate cover at the toggle switch.
This is the weakest point, since it is recessed for the switch (on the inside).
So looks like I need to machine a new cover, I'm also looking for a switch with longer threaded mount so I can have more material thickness at the switch location.
The alternative is to change to ABS, or Delrin (not transparent) which are less notch sensitive, & less likely to crack during abuse.
OP
I'm happy to report my DIY Light Head & Canister are still running well.
The crack hasn't gotten any worse, but I've only had it on shallow (60 ft or less dives)
The crack hasn't gotten any worse, but I've only had it on shallow (60 ft or less dives)
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