Dive lights questions

[Lorenzoid]

I'm with @Zef . For night diving, even in Monterey waters, the average dive light (i.e.., decent power, fixed beam width that's neither video-wide nor laser-narrow) will work great. Adjustable beam is an amazing feature, but keep in mind that people having been doing those kinds of dives without adjustable beams since the dawn of scuba. I would be interested to see how many people who have been using adjustable-beam dive lights actually find that feature important; oh, they may use the feature because they have it (and paid dearly for it) and, well, it's kinda fun, but how important is it really? The vast majority of divers do not have adjustable-beam lights for regular ol' night diving. In cave and wreck environments where you sometimes want to light up a room, adjustable-beam lights are more the norm (and even then, I would wager many cave divers rarely adjust the beam), but for night diving in open water, it's a bell/whistle feature and you're going to pay a lot for it. It's not envy--I am on a training path for tech diving, and I have an expensive adjustable-beam light and rarely adjust it. For night diving in open water, I use a DGX 600. Maybe if I were diving west coast waters rather than clear topical waters I would take the expensive light instead, but I would consider it a nice thing to use, not a necessary one.

On the topic of accidentally dropping a light into the abyss or flooding a light, if it's a $60 light as opposed to a $600 light, you just shrug it off, pull out your backup and continue the dive, then buy a replacement without burning a hole in your wallet.

You're a relatively new diver and, with all due respect, can't predict what you're going to like and dislike. Why not buy a pair of simple lights for the time being, and if it so happens that you just fall in love with night diving in Monterey and similar environments, then buy an expensive, adjustable-power, adjustable-beam light, and relegate your original lights to backup duty?

 

[fmerkel]

This is probably a stupid question - but what do you lubricate the o-rings with?

Not stupid and the answer is not that simple. It depends.

Basic concept - like dissolves like.
There are generally 2 different kinds of O-rings: silicone based, and petroleum based (neoprene, buna). There are others but we won't worry about those since you are not likely to see them on a light.

Silicone is generally softer, stretchier, and "sometimes" brightly colored, but color is not entirely reliable. Many camera housings use silicone for the main seal and strobe seals. There are specific greases for those...and that's what I use on lights that have silicone seals. Often cheap LED dive lights have non-standard sized silicone seals. If you use silicone grease (common scuba grease, plumbing grease) it may cause the O-ring to swell and stretch over time. I have had this happen.
Sometimes, if there is a standard neoprene O-ring that will fit properly I replace them. Makes life easier.

For neoprene based O-rings, you use silicone grease. Since most scuba O-rings are neoprene or viton (one of the more common alternatives), the advice to simply use silicone grease is frequent, but it's not entirely accurate.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

This is probably a stupid question - but what do you lubricate the o-rings with?

As people have stated, just regular silicone grease (for scuba) will do the trick.

When you get into photography, then you go by the manufacturers guidelines as what I use for my strobes is different from my housing,

 

[Zef]

I am trying to picture the securing you are talking about.

As promised, here are pics of how I have my daughters' torches set up:

 

[kelemvor]

View attachment 489283

As promisedView attachment 489281 View attachment 489282

Good idea. I might not have lost that DRIS 1000 if I'd been using a camera attachment like that. On the other hand, those things cost about the same price as the cheapie lights I'm using.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

A single ended bolt snap attached via caveline is also good for easy clip on/clip off.

 

[kelemvor]

A single ended bolt snap attached via caveline is also good for easy clip on/clip off.

That's what I use for all my lights. Although, like I said - I dropped one on an ocean dive once where it was too deep to chase. Not an issue in a cave.

 

[wetb4igetinthewater]

That's what I use for all my lights. Although, like I said - I dropped one on an ocean dive once where it was too deep to chase. Not an issue in a cave.

I can't entirely relate as I dive with a canister light typically, though sometimes I don't bother as I have the wide angle focus light (Big Blue VL3500P) on my camera (which I'm getting back into). For a serious expedition, then I'd have it. I always have a light with a narrow beam as backup in my pouch.

 

[Zef]

A single ended bolt snap attached via caveline is also good for easy clip on/clip off.

That is how I have mine set up....the coil lanyard is how I have my kids' lights set up so they don't inadvertently drop theirs...when they start buying their own gear they can scrap the coil lanyard if they want.

-Z

 

[Zef]

Good idea. I might not have lost that DRIS 1000 if I'd been using a camera attachment like that. On the other hand, those things cost about the same price as the cheapie lights I'm using.

You are spot on about the price of the coil lanyard....I think I paid between 12 and 14 euros and the torch was only $20US....but the lanyard, I expect to outlive the torch. Both bought back in 2014 and see regular use....they both seem to be doing well considering.

-Z