Dive lights questions

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One of the DRIS lights with 3 C cells will run easily 4-5 hours without noticable dimming. I can't imagine any value in dealing with rechargeables when I can get that life with a battery that I can buy anywhere and do not have to recharge. In turbid water and for looking back in holes the DRIS 1000 is perfect. In Cozumel at night it is really bright, but I still like it. I have left these with my fisherman friend, who uses it just to look into holes and the batteries last all year. If the $75 is too much search Ebay until you find one that looks just like it and it will be the same for about $35. I have them from both sources for 5 divers and have had no failures in several years. The only complaint was from other divers at night that they were too bright.
 
How does a push-button magnetic switch operate? Mine are either rotary or a lever so I understand how the switch works, but a button? It seems like something has to move the magnet...

I have a couple of these:

Flashlight 2000LM Diving CREE XM-L T6 3W aa LED Waterproof Torch Underwater Lamp 763293672759 | eBay

I've had one on at least a hundred dives and it still works perfectly. It uses four AA batteries. The first set was still going strong after 50 dives (using it only occasionally) and I replaced them because I figured they would probably quit on me but hadn't yet. I use it in my pool, in the rain, for going on walks, working on plumbing, etc. It's my #1 home flashlight. A while back I put some old NiMh batteries in it and they just keep going too. I might not recommend it for cave diving but for looking in holes and under ledges while diving it's AOK. I also wouldn't recommend buying from an ebayer with a 96% rating :wink: It's made out of plastic so I wouldn't recommend dropping it or setting a tank on it, but I don't baby it either. Mine has been down past 90 feet on a few occasions but I don't see any reason why it wouldn't go a lot deeper.
I have bought, used and sold these in my shop, They are a great buy. If they leak it is generally on the first dive. Otherwise they are very reliable. They will eventually have problems with the magnetic switch or the battery springs collapse too much. For the price, who cares.
 
If I recall the other brand name for the DRIS light is Securitying. They are good lights. There is no way for them to be outputting 1000 lumens for 4 to 5 hours on 3 c-cells. The tech isn't there yet. It is difficult for the eye to distinguish light intensity though, and many of the old tech diving backup lights were "only" 200 lumens. That's still plenty bright for most night dives and perfectly adequate for illuminating nooks during daytime. I still like the smaller 18650 lights, because they're smaller.
 
If I recall the other brand name for the DRIS light is Securitying. They are good lights. There is no way for them to be outputting 1000 lumens for 4 to 5 hours on 3 c-cells. The tech isn't there yet. It is difficult for the eye to distinguish light intensity though, and many of the old tech diving backup lights were "only" 200 lumens. That's still plenty bright for most night dives and perfectly adequate for illuminating nooks during daytime. I still like the smaller 18650 lights, because they're smaller.
I'm not making any lumen claims, but they are very bright for a lot of hours. So far I have never run one down to the point I thought it was really weak, but I try to replace batteries every 4 dark NW dives where we leave them on all the time. The ability to just have a Costco pack of C batteries is a winner for me over having to think about recharging.

Edit: Here is the Ebay version
Brinyte DIV01 800LM CREE XML-U2 Underwater Scuba Diving C LED Flashlight 150M 610600757657 | eBay
 
How does a push-button magnetic switch operate? Mine are either rotary or a lever so I understand how the switch works, but a button? It seems like something has to move the magnet...

The magnet is attached to the base of a spring loaded push button. As the button is depressed by your finger, it moves closer to a sensor, eventually triggering the sensor to report a "press". That sensor can be on the other side of the pressure vessel, so it is a no-contact actuation that is not subject to leakage.

In the end, a similar principal to most door and window alarm contacts, although I imagine that most flashlights use "hall effect" sensors instead of reed switches to detect the magnet in proximity.
 
I'm not as much of an ebay lover for shopping - too many bad experiences. I tend to lean towards amazon, but I'm also definitely considering the mako stuff too. I really appreciate all the information and feedback!
 
Just to cut to the chase, DRIS has sold a ton of these: 1000 Lumen Dive Light , and it's a great first primary light (even here in Puget Sound), or a backup when you get a more expensive light. It runs on 3 c-cells, and is almost indestructible.

I had one of these. Too dang big for me. Gave it away and got one of these instead. Love it. Got it for about $60 on sale. I didn’t need the battery or charger since I already had those.

I find the twist operated lights too difficult to use with gloves (I also have hand strength issues). I also have a Deep6 light similar to the Mini Dragon. These two go with me on every dive. I also have a DGX light with a end cap push button.

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I'm not as much of an ebay lover for shopping - too many bad experiences. I tend to lean towards amazon, but I'm also definitely considering the mako stuff too. I really appreciate all the information and feedback!

There are dog people and there are cat people :wink: I hardly ever buy from Amazon and I call my girlfriend the Amazon Woman--she seems to get something almost daily. I've had a few things I bought on ebay that never showed up but I always got a refund. Probably all of them were directly from China.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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