Ditching the Console

[kaliban]

I'm a new ow diver preparing step by step for the DIR-F class. I just got my plate and will have my wing next week or so. Next I want to get rid of my gauge console.

Can anyone make some suggestions on decent guages that are as affordable as possible? Anything I should avoid? Is there some criteria the gauges need to meet?

[edit] Oh yeah, any advice on buying a watch and a BT would be appreciated as well.

Thanks,

-k

 

[herman]

Most any gauge can be popped out of the console, wheather or not it's built well enought to withstand non-padded use depends on the gauge. The hose on most standard consoles are too long however. It's not mandatory to remove the console for DIR-F. No doubt that the instructors may perfer it and discuss why they don't use them but it can stay for the class. At least that was the case when I took it June 03.

 

[Scuba Cowboy]

You'll want a brass & glass guage, Dive Rite or OMS make good ones.

 

[FreeFloat]

If I already own a gauge, but am not sure it can withstand non-padded use, for the class would it be acceptable to have a rubber cover for it if I can find one to fit just the gauge itself?

I understand why I wouldn't want a large gauge console however - it's most annoying when it keeps smacking me and dangling from my left hip D ring........

 

[salty]

Brass and glass pressure gauges are the best but whatever you have now will be fine. On the proper length hose the gauge will be cliped on to the hip d-ring and not be subjected to much abuse. Dont worry about running out for a new pressure gauge for now. Concentrate on the watch and bottome timer.

 

[detroit diver]

If I already own a gauge, but am not sure it can withstand non-padded use, for the class would it be acceptable to have a rubber cover for it if I can find one to fit just the gauge itself?

I understand why I wouldn't want a large gauge console however - it's most annoying when it keeps smacking me and dangling from my left hip D ring........

You really don't want any cover on your gauges because the cover will "cover up" any rust or defect issues that you would like to know. There really isn't a need for the cover either. When positioned with a correct length hose, and proper clip, it will not bang around during the dive. A good brass gauge will take all kinds of abuse (within reason) and last a long time.

I had what I thought was a permanent plastic encased gauge when I went to my DIRF class. I was shown almost immediately how temporary that casing was with a pair of sharp shears!! I haven't missed it since.

 

[5615mike]

You'll want a brass & glass guage, Dive Rite or OMS make good ones.

Ditto

 

[tomcat]

You really don't want any cover on your gauges because the cover will "cover up" any rust or defect issues that you would like to know. QUOTE]

actually, i would go one step further to say that keeping the cover on the gauges actually promotes rust. the deal is that no matter how you try to dry your gauges after a dive, water collects in there some where and takes forever to disappear. in the mean time, the gauge remains in contact with water (possibly even sea water).

when i first took my chrome plated brass gauge out of the boot, there was skin of rust around the edges on the back where the boot covered the gauge. now that the gauge has been out of the boot permanently for some time, the rust has been worn off and the gauge is shiny again.

 

[BadFish]

Just pop the gauge you have now out of the Console and get a shorter hose.
I've been using the one that came in my console for over twop years now on both boat and beach dives with no problem. So dont worry about going out and spending more money on a brass one for now.
When i do have to replace mine, i'll spend the cash on brass.
But not yet.

Enjoy the class, its a great one.

 

[Mo2vation]

Dont worry about running out for a new pressure gauge for now. Concentrate on the watch and bottome timer.

Salty is offering sage advice.

The biggest change for me was setting up and diving a "dashboard" - that is having my compass and timer actually in front of me for a change, and not dangling on some brick at my side.

The dashboard set up will drive all kinds of changes in your diving style, safety and enjoyment. Not the least of these are:

* Actually knowing your depth at all times... a simple glance at the wrist and you're dialed in.

* All of the stuff that goes with that - the ability to better stick to your plan, increased accuracy on your estimated depth and time remaining (not waiting around for the brick to beep) safer, slower ascents, etc.

* The dashboard will deliver an increased sense of overall involvement with the dive, simply because its in your grill and not at your leg.

The single biggest change to my diving began on day 2 of my DIR/F when I took my Datatrans Plus off the retractror, split up the compass and brick and shoe-stringed them to my wrists. That's when it started to come together for me.

If you have a compass and a non-AI computer in your console, pop them out and wrist them with some bungee... you won't be sorry you did. Then just lash a clip to your remaining SPG and your fine.

If the pop-out method doesn't work (AI Comp) here's one other idea: When my wife quit diving, we sold her stuff. She's back in the groove, so when we go together, I give her my wrist gauges (Vytec and Compass) and go and rent a reg set up for $15 from a local dive shop. I take it home, pop out the computer (a Suunto Favor) and compass and bungee them for a day or two. Now I have my SPG, a depth gauge / timer and a compass about $22 for two days. After the weekend, I re-assemble and return.

K