Trip Report Bunaken Oasis and Spa: Oct/Nov 2023

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tridacna

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I just returned from 10 days at Bunaken Oasis in N. Sulawesi. I'll try and summarize in sections:

1. Booking: Easy as pie. I used Georgie, their agent in the UK for all matters related to booking. She is fantastic to work with and very accommodating. We were a large group (20 divers) and she made life very easy for me as the organizer. Nothing was too much effort for her and the entire process was made simple for me.

2. Getting there: Most of us flew from Newark NJ to Singapore on Singapore Airlines and then took the Scoot flight to Manado. You can book the entire flight on SA because they own Scoot. That makes it easy on the luggage restrictions. Some flew on other airlines but no one had any problem getting there (or back).

When you arrive, they have pre-arranged your visas, meet and greet you outside the airport and everyone is whisked in private taxis to a private jetty in Manado and taken to Bunaken in two of their dive boats. The entire process is really well organized; You're greeted with a cool towel at the airport; a water bottle in the taxi and the best attitude you are ever going to encounter on any dive trip. I can't say enough about the overall attitude of all staff. They learn your names, smile whenever talking to you and nothing is ever a "no". It's obvious from the beginning that you are going to have a great stay.

3. The resort: The rooms are the best that you will EVER have at any dive resort. Period. I've been doing this for 40+ years and nothing even comes close. The rooms are enormous, bathrooms are impressive and nothing is lacking at all. No TV but I consider that a plus. They have thought of pretty much everything. Nothing was missing. Huge showers, great views from every room, incredible swimming pool. Absolutely nothing to criticize. WiFi in every room with decent throughput. You can watch videos without any problem. This is also one of the most beautiful resorts that you can visit. Landscaping is gorgeous and the resort is very well maintained.

Meals are served in their open air restaurant thrice daily. Food is prepared by a chef and can be customized for any diet. I heard no complaint from anyone about the food, In addition to their daily Indonesian specialties, they have a regular American menu with burgers, pizza, pasta for anyone who wanted that.

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All rooms are the same except for some with two queen beds.

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The pool at night.

Warning: The resort is built on a steep hill. The better the view, the better the hike. You WILL climb a LOT of steps each day. Plan your trip accordingly. The best rooms are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 11 if you want to avoid many steps.

The bar is next to the restaurant and is a great place to hang out before dinner. The managers always join you for pre-dinner drinks and it's a fun place to be.

Everyone used the spa a lot. Very reasonable and talented masseuses.

3: Dive operations: This is a diver resort. They are ready to handle everything from recreational to technical. The compressor room is awesome. We all dived 32% Nitrox for all dives. Tanks are checked on each dive: Each boat has a O2 analyzer and they are fastidious about safety. They are trimix and rebreather friendly. I saw three Ts of Helium - custom blends and sorb is available. They offer scooters for tech divers. The camera room is huge and offers air guns and power available at all stations.

Dive boats. Wow. Groups are small on each boat. We had 3 divers on our boat with 4 staff: 1 DM, 1 captain, 1 gear guy and 1 guy to make tea, coffee provide towels etc. It is extremely decadent. You do a backward roll, drop onto a wall, reef or muck bottom and surface with the DM on a SMB/line. When returning from a dive, you are welcomed with a hot towel, choice of beverage and a dry towel. The boats are huge. Custom built for diving with real heads, showers and tons of space. They will set up your gear and break it down after each day. Their rentals are first class if you need. Mostly new and high quality stuff. There is a focus on enjoyment and safety. A very impressive operation.

Morning dives start at 8:30am and after two dives, return to the resort around noonish. There are no restrictions on dive times. Your DM will come up when you are ready. I'm embarrassed to say that that some of the dives were too long. Our group was getting kinda cold at 77mins! Water temps varied between 84F and 78F! There are some interesting thermoclines. There are some currents but each dive is treated as a drift dive so you are seldom if ever diving into the current. There is an afternoon dive at 2:30pm and a night dive is offered every night. Mandarin and deep water dives are also offered. Check their website for pictures of their dive boats.

4. Diving: Awesome. It's not often that you see 5 pygmy seahorses on your first dive but our DM could probably have found more. He has a species named for him. Hentje Pontoh discovered a new species in 2008: Hippocampus pontohi. This sounds terribly trite but I was actually getting tired of seeing Pygmy Seahorses. He founds them on walls at all depths. I was anticipating this and brought a lens to see them. Good advice for anyone else going down there. We saw the usual caste of characters that makes the area famous: Dozens of Green Turtles, Painted Frog Fish - (size of a fingernail), Scorpion Leaf Fishes, Leaf fishes, Giant Clams (yay) - corals are prolific. I take a keen interest in soft corals and on one site, Abang Point, gave up counting the different species. That was probably the greatest dive that I've ever done. It was simply a giant aquarium. We were down for almost 82mins on a Al80 - I did not want the dive to end. I've never ever seen such healthy animals. They are huge and in great abundance.

The focus in Bunaken is on the walls but they will happily take you wherever you want to dive. Mention a species to your DM and they will take you to that animal.

5, Staff: This is a customer focused resort. Everyone from management down is there to make sure that you have a good time. Simon and Kelly are the GMs and they really try to make sure that you are taken care of. Christine and Antal are in charge of the dive operation and they do a wonderful job. I can honestly say that I did not have a single issue that they did not take care of immediately. I highly recommend Bunaken Oasis & Spa. It will be hard going anywhere else after this "spoiled rotten" experience.

OVERALL EXPERIENCE was 10/10. This is not a cheap experience but 100% worth every penny. I've never experienced anything as good as this in my diving life.

(Thanks to Leisha for the pictures I stole from FB!).
 
Sounds like a trip of a lifetime. Probably too expensive for me, but wonderful none-the-less. I take it some of you are really good on air consumption to get those dive dives; did they have tanks larger than 80-cf on offer? Any idea what the max. and average depths tended to be for the dives?

Other than the sea turtles and giant clams, most of what you mentioned is fairly small; is Bunaken mainly a macro destination? Did you see any other fairly big stuff (e.g.: Napoleon wrasse, black tip sharks, bump head parrotfish, etc...)?

For the benefit of divers trying to make sense of the multiple destination options in Indonesia (e.g.: Raja Ampat, Komodo, Lembeh), what are Bunaken's competitive 'selling points' that made it your choice this time?

Richard.
 
I forgot to mention one of the bonus features: Every day, your dirty clothing is picked up, laundered and ironed and returned to your room on the next day. This means that you need way less clothing than you think.

Yes to sharks, Bumpheads, Napoleons and lots of other big fishes. Enormous schools of blue triggers, trevallys, unicorn tangs, sweetlips, needlefishes, batfishes. Often times the schools were so dense around you, it was scary. I’m such a macro and invert person, I forget about the fish. After the first anemone fish and Moorish Idols, I get kinda blase although I love seeing Racoon Butterflies, Henniochus, Flame Hawkfishes and weird looking Trumpets.

Depths varied from 30’ to 80’ - no need to go deeper because most of the action is there. All of my divers are experienced with no airhogs. 100 cu ft tanks were offered. I think a few people opted for them. I loved being able to dive my profile. The DMs recorded tank pressures after each dive, I think that I came up with 400psi after a few ‘special’ dives. After Abang Point which we did a few times, I remember thinking that I could now die in peace knowing that I saw the greatest soft coral display possible on the planet. I could bore people by listing dozens of species - trust me, if you know what you’re looking for, you WILL find it there. GINORMOUS table corals, moon corals, huge leathers, brain corals that are 12-15 ft in diameter. One or two boats (not mine) had dolphins tracking them on most dives. Sometimes the massive turtles got in the way of picture taking.

Why did I choose this destination? My group is well-heeled and prefer a more luxurious resort. This resort offers it all at a fair price. It’s easy to get there, they really take care of their customers - there isn’t a single person in my group who felt that they were taken advantage of in any way. I’d have absolutely no problem going back again. If I had to do it again, I’d tack on 5 days to Lembeh Resort.

We spent the last day touring the Bunaken Island Village. Quite a contrast from the resort. The resort directly employs 85 FT people and 15 dailies. This translates indirectly to about 500 people that depend on it for sustenance. The owners, Elaine and Simon Wallace are to be commended for the jobs and wonderful working conditions they provide for so many people. I want to call out Andre at the front desk for being so pro-active working with me and helping me with arrangements. He is a true angel after putting up with my constantly changing requirements.

I will say that if you’re prepared to spend a little more and want the best, this is the place for you!

It’s an absolute gem in N. Sulawesi and one of the best in the world.

I’ll post more pics soon.
 
Very nice report @tridacna, but the place doesn't sound like Bunaken. Are we talking about the Bunaken across Manado on the north most tip of Sulawesi? I am just kidding.
Bunaken was my first dive trip after OW in 2017. Back then, if not mistaken, we were happy/lucky to get electricity 24/7 and diving was nice, but other than turtles (a lot of them) there were not much big things.
Things have obviously changed a lot since then.
 
Very nice report @tridacna, but the place doesn't sound like Bunaken. Are we talking about the Bunaken across Manado on the north most tip of Sulawesi? I am just kidding.
Bunaken was my first dive trip after OW in 2017. Back then, if not mistaken, we were happy/lucky to get electricity 24/7 and diving was nice, but other than turtles (a lot of them) there were not much big things.
Things have obviously changed a lot since then.
Bunaken Oasis has their own power generation and desalination plants. These are industrial grade machines. They do not depend on the grid for either power or water.

You are correct, this is not the place for large pelagics like mantas or whale sharks. It’s all about the walls and macro. The resort opened after you left. It’s close to Bastianos but a whole world apart.
 
Bunaken Oasis has their own power generation and desalination plants. These are industrial grade machines. They do not depend on the grid for either power or water.

You are correct, this is not the place for large pelagics like mantas or whale sharks. It’s all about the walls and macro. The resort opened after you left. It’s close to Bastianos but a whole world apart.
Ha, in 2017 I stayed in Happy Gecko which according to Google Maps is next door to Bunaken Oasis. Back then there were some works going on in the "jungle" next door. Probably it was Oasis being built.

As for diving by "big" things I mean anything bigger than a turtle or so. Not pelagics necessarily (which of course Bunaken is not the place to see). I think we saw one shark (black tip), no bumpheads, no napoleonies etc. There were tons of smaller reef fish though as you describe...

Maybe it is time for me to go back to check myself. Unfortunately it won't be in Oasis though as my budget is much smaller.
 
Ha, in 2017 I stayed in Happy Gecko which according to Google Maps is next door to Bunaken Oasis. Back then there were some works going on next door. Probably it was Oasis being built.

As for diving by "big" things I mean anything bigger than a turtle or so. Not pelagics necessarily (which of course Bunaken is not the place to see). I think we saw one shark (black tip), no bumpheads, no napoleonies etc. There were tons of smaller reef fish though as you describe...

Maybe it is time for me to go back to check myself. Unfortunately it won't be in Oasis though as my budget is much smaller.
The turtles at Bunaken are the biggest that I've seen outside of Maldives.

I've never particularly enjoyed the diving at Bunaken due to the trash in the water but I've seen pilot whales (from the surface).

I love the diving out of Bangka and would neber have considered doing more than a couple of token dives at Bunaken until reading tridacna's report.

Awesome tridacna, thanks!

I'm glad you all had such an excellent experience. I wish that I had heels like you and your group. 😄
 
The turtles at Bunaken are the biggest that I've seen outside of Maldives.

I've never particularly enjoyed the diving at Bunaken due to the trash in the water but I've seen pilot whales (from the surface).

I love the diving out of Bangka and would neber have considered doing more than a couple of token dives at Bunaken until reading tridacna's report.

Awesome tridacna, thanks!

I'm glad you all had such an excellent experience. I wish that I had heels like you and your group. 😄

This was my second trip to the Bunaken area. I must say that the floating trash wasn’t there on this visit. I was amazed because I was expecting it. Nevertheless, it was a pleasant surprise.

Along with those heels comes the expectation that they will receive commensurate service and product. This is where the resort did not disappoint. They were awesome and made for a memorable trip.
 
I don't recall any trash from my trip to Bunaken in 2019.
Trash on Bunaken is seasonal and located on either side on the island depending on the currents, usually you won't have that much trash on the southern side of Bunaken (Oasis, Bastianos, Likuan wall) in the northern hemisphere "summer/fall" eg. from June to october.
 
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