DIN/Yoke or DIN only valves?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

houe

Registered
Messages
23
Reaction score
2
Is there any drawback to using a DIN/yoke valve (with insert) instead of a DIN only valve? I will be purchasing a few tanks and am trying decide which valves to put on them. My first stage regulators will be DIN and the tanks will be HP 3442psi tanks. I will mostly be diving my own tanks and only rarely rent tanks. Thanks.
 
While you didn't mention price, I otherwise see no down side at all. I'd get the pro/convertible valves and keep your options open.
 
Thanks for the advice. I keep going back and forth between DIN and DIN/yoke.
 
Actually the convertible valves might be stronger. That's because they're 200bar DIN rather than 300bar. The 300bar valves have a deeper recess, which means that all other things being equal, they'd have less metal behind the recess and could be more likely to get knocked out of round if they fall or get banged around. I say 'could' because you'd really have to look at each valve to see if there's any appreciable difference in size and/or metal surrounding the threaded recess.

The 300bar valves do not have any higher capacity for pressure, they were simply designed to prevent regulators not qualified for high pressure from being used on HP tanks. The 200bar DIN fittings on regulators are a few threads shorter than the 300bar fittings. It was not one of Europe's brightest ideas.....
 
may as well be able to use the best of both worlds. its not that bothersome to swap the adapter donut out. i keep them and the tools in my reg case.
 
Is there any drawback to using a DIN/yoke valve (with insert) instead of a DIN only valve? I will be purchasing a few tanks and am trying decide which valves to put on them. My first stage regulators will be DIN and the tanks will be HP 3442psi tanks. I will mostly be diving my own tanks and only rarely rent tanks. Thanks.

I'm taking delivery of 4 Worthington X7100s on Friday. I specified the Pro Din 3442 valve with them. There is no downside, only upside to having the yoke and din capability. That is unless you cant afford another $50 for the yoke. And if that's the case, you ask yourself if you can really afford 3442 tanks. As far as the threads go, its BS. There are plenty of threads on a convertible vs a DIN only. The extra threads on DIN only are way overkill - thread bearing surface area is the key to holding any kind of pressure, as is the metal they are cut into. Valves are forged steel. Short of titanium, you can't get any more bullet proof. Buy the Din/Yoke 3442 valve and live happily ever after.

I will add however, that the Oring you use on your gear is of far more importance and by far the weakest link - way more fragile than most realize. Its the poor bugger doing the heavy lifting, not the valve, threads etal. Check this out if you are interested. http://www.oringsusa.com/html/scuba.html Buy mil spec and have spares.
 
I'm taking delivery of 4 Worthington X7100s on Friday. I specified the Pro Din 3442 valve with them. There is no downside, only upside to having the yoke and din capability. That is unless you cant afford another $50 for the yoke. And if that's the case, you ask yourself if you can really afford 3442 tanks. As far as the threads go, its BS. There are plenty of threads on a convertible vs a DIN only. The extra threads on DIN only are way overkill - thread bearing surface area is the key to holding any kind of pressure, as is the metal they are cut into. Valves are forged steel. Short of titanium, you can't get any more bullet proof. Buy the Din/Yoke 3442 valve and live happily ever after.

I will add however, that the Oring you use on your gear is of far more importance and by far the weakest link - way more fragile than most realize. Its the poor bugger doing the heavy lifting, not the valve, threads etal. Check this out if you are interested. How to Buy O-Rings For Scuba Buy mil spec and have spares.

I believe most valves are chrome plated brass. But that is plenty strong enough. DIN regulator fittings are more compact and the main O-ring is harder to extrude.
 

Back
Top Bottom