Deco Procedures

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I do two basic types of dives that require deco
1 - Shallow long dives 100-150 feet on wrecks time varies based on desired penetration and the bottom gas is usually air
2 - Shorter deeper dives 300 - 400 feet on Trimix

I both cases I tend to use the same general configuration of deco bottles, gases, etc. with some slight variances.

On my back twin 112's, 95's or 80's depending on depth or time. I like the aluminum 80's for beach dives
The mix in them will again depend on my dive profile usually a Trimix selection ranging from 21/10 to 10/60, my 80's I will put just air in sometimes as well. PO2 no more than 1.4 often less

On my left side is my travel gas general EAN 32 or 36 stored in aluminum 80. I like my PO2 to be no more than 1.4 on descent [I usually descend at 100/min] and 1.6 on deco

On my right side can be one or two bottles depending on my profile of course, an aluminum 80 is the usual package with 80% in it. Then sometimes I will add aluminum 40 with 100% on top of it.

My deco procedure and profile
I use Voyager software to plan my dives and variances [i.e. lose a gas, longer time, deeper dive]
I print a profile of all the variances, laminate it and take it with me. Hopefully never to use them.
I have a wrist slate were I print my dive profile, this is two pieces of PVC piping one laid on top of the other then attached to my arm with velcro. This way it opens up like a laptop. I then have three surfaces to write on.
The top one is my profile; the second one is my bailout if I loose my travel gas [36%]. Or deco gas [80%]. Profiles on my slate have no variances for dive time or depth. The third is for communication with the dive team.

Deep stops
Within this is as big of a debate as the long hose. I believe in deep stops [its ok if you don't] deep stops are such a theory and with all the good print on it, not much is written about how to figure them in or calculate them. What I do to figure my deep stops is this. I take half the distance between my planned depth and my first deco stop add that to my required deco stop for one minute then the same again between that stop and my first deco stop and so on until I hit my first required deco stop. For example a dive to 300 ft with a first required deco stop at 140. I would add stops at the following depths 220, 180, & 150

Descent / ascent rates
I descend at a rate of 100 ft/min until my PN2 reaches 4.3 or 150ft END then I slow down so as to word of the nitrogen demons
Don't get me wrong here I would prefer an END of 100 - 130 ft
My ascent is about 60ft/min until my first required deco stop then I slow down to about 45 ft/min until about 60ft then I am at 30ft or less / min. I play a little game and see how long it can take me to ascend the ten feet to my next deco. The last twenty feet I just don't want to move cause then my dive will be over.

Hydration, potty, food, boredom
I bring bottled water with me; so far it has worked out well I don’t start drinking any until I am above 30 ft. I am still experimenting here. Potty = pee valve, I hate diapers
Food = Power Bars peanut butter ones are great and water does not effect them. Boredom = stay off a rope, deco up a wall or slope and make it part of the dive. If it’s Open Ocean or a line then it’s a Zen dive were you can talk to yourself for a couple of hours

Obviously I have left stuff out and made some quick assumptions just for discussion on deco purposes. Every dive and the factors associated with that dive are different.
 
Mike,
I have 4 sets of tables for 4 different dives I do alot.( 170', 200' Cow and Ginnie Springs) I dive the same tables all the time on these dives. The only tables that get cut are for depths other than the tables I already have laminated.I went to Office Depot and bought a laminating machine. I use the note card size laminations. Hope this helps.
Ken
 
Pick a spot,run ProPlanner,GAP,VPM to find bottom mix and figure my thirds.Deco gas is variable depending on whats available and what my buddy is breathing.END<130 PO2<1.4.
Hydrate all day.After trip out,rest then gear up.Splash.communicate OK on the way down ....OK on the bottom.UP sign ...hang.......start clipping off at 20' crawl ...10' clip off more...5'clip harness ...go aboard ...rest ....BS about dive .Down load dive info at home.
 
In a PM to Yooper I mentioned that I was uncomfortable in putting out the deco shortcuts on a general list.

However I will mention that there are shortcuts that do not *shortchange* your deco at all but will allow you to compute your deco and contingencies very easily without multiple tables strapped all over.

I gave one simple method to Yooper for determining first stops and he can tell you how it compares with the method he uses to figure them.

I would recommend a GUE tech class.
 
I'll just say that I do some deep stops at half depths in addition to whatever my deco schedule is.
Rick
 
I can't wait to learn the "tricks" to calculate deco profiles on the fly... I can't wait for GUE Tech 1. :)

- Warren
 
Warren,
If you want a head start George has been giving deco info on the techdiver and Quest lists.
Ken
 
Usually, the group that I dive with uses DecoPlanner (GUE) to plan dives. We compare using 50/50 and 100% vs 100% and see how long it takes to get out along with how much gas will be needed.GUE now has a PalmPilot program that at least one diver has purchased. It will be interesting to see how it performs. Most of the divers use 2 bottom timers and have the deco plan written on a piece of PVC strapped to a forearm. I believe that there are pictures on Jim Cobb's web site.
 
Without getting into details, UP has a method of determining when to begin deep stops that comes real close to my 80% ATA rule. It's pretty slick. In the past, I was using Z Planner, but I like how V Planner is spitting out profiles a bit better. Of course both of these programs figure out the deep stops for me, and I take the profile on a set of wetnotes. If a profile is such that it doesn't require deep stops, then I add them in myself to ensure a slow ascent.

I am continually fine tuning my profiles, but ultimately, my goal is to use only 6-7 tables for all of my advanced dive profiles. What I have noticed is that the time savings on deco for very specific depths isn't all that significant. This summer I intend to use only the following tables:

110'
150'
180'
210'
240'
270'

So, say I plan a dive where the max depth attainable is in between 150' and 180'. I would just use my 180' profile. What I have noticed is that coming up with a specific plan for 165' will save me a little time on the line, but not too much. The extra time is good for ya anyway. The other thing I like about this, is that it corresponds very well with the depths of the good wrecks up here. Most of the wrecks I do, or intend to do, max out at each of these depths. There's only a couple that fall in between.

Of course, I have corresponding bottom times with each of these profiles which I would also use, along with a few contigencies plans for each primary plan. My goal in doing this is to only have six primary profiles and their corresponding contigencies completely memorized. I think this will prove pretty efficient in calcuating deco on the fly -- a better and more educated guess anyway. Before I get into trouble, I am not saying I want to do these dives relying on my memory -- I would always take my tables with me. I have a good memory, but it's a little short! :D

Is anyone else here doing anything like this? I kinda robbed this from someone else :).

Mike
 
Yooper,
As Jean Valjean discovers in Les Miserables you cannot have stolen what was given to you....but you can give it away to others.


Gang,

Several things to consider:

1. Is *deco* such an exact and determined science that it can actually give you schedules with accuracies measured in feet and minutes?

2. Are your skills such that you can time and measure your stops precisely in feet and minutes?


If the answer is not an unqualified yes to both... perhaps a general understanding of what is happening during deco merits attention.... and with that might come an understanding of how to accomplish the desired result safely & efficiently.

Again I would suggest taking an actual GUE class....
Just reading about it on the web will not get you to where you need to be.
 

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