Coltri MCH-6 water drainage hose

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Omar_k

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Hey everyone

I’m new here, although I’ve been lurking for a while.

I have a Daystate Type 2 compressor, which is a Coltri MCH-6 Compact, but not as wide - there’s just little space between the motor and the side of the cage. Made by Coltri, but with Daystate’s branding on the cage. I’ve attached a picture.

I would like to connect hoses to the bleed valves on the condensation tower and filter tower, so that when I purge, I can direct the spray and avoid the mess.

Has anyone done this?

Will it cause any problems?

If you have done it, what size (inner diameter) hose do I need and of what material, so that it stays on the valve?

I’m not a diver, however after everything I’ve been reading and watching, I really want to start - likely when we get out of this Covid mess.

Thanks in advance!
 

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NAM001

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Hey everyone

I’m new here, although I’ve been lurking for a while.

I have a Daystate Type 2 compressor, which is a Coltri MCH-6 Compact, but not as wide - there’s just little space between the motor and the side of the cage. Made by Coltri, but with Daystate’s branding on the cage. I’ve attached a picture.

I would like to connect hoses to the bleed valves on the condensation tower and filter tower, so that when I purge, I can direct the spray and avoid the mess.

Has anyone done this?

Will it cause any problems?

If you have done it, what size (inner diameter) hose do I need and of what material, so that it stays on the valve?

I’m not a diver, however after everything I’ve been reading and watching, I really want to start - likely when we get out of this Covid mess.

Thanks in advance!

I think what you are asking is normal. you just cant crash open the valves if you are using tygon hoses slipped on a barb fitting. If You can find some HP hose ( even hydrolic hoses)with the fitings on them and attach them to you drain threaded outputs you should be in good shape. then put a brick on the hose ends to keep it from whipping. Or tie them down if you cant find a brick.
 

Omar_k

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I think what you are asking is normal. you just cant crash open the valves if you are using tygon hoses slipped on a barb fitting. If You can find some HP hose ( even hydrolic hoses)with the fitings on them and attach them to you drain threaded outputs you should be in good shape. then put a brick on the hose ends to keep it from whipping. Or tie them down if you cant find a brick.

Thanks KWS - really appreciate you taking the time to help me.

I’d ideally like to avoid changing the bleed valves, if possible. If I slip a hose over the barb fitting, could I clamp it using a jubilee/pipe clamp, or would that risk damaging the end of the bleed valve?

If so, would silicone tubing work? If not, what material would work? Also, how much smaller than the outer diameter of the bleed valve should the inner diameter of the hose be in order to have a snug fit?

Thanks for the suggestion of the brick! You may have saved me spraying my water/oil everywhere!

Cheers
 

happy-diver

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Run them into here

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How neat is that!!!

English neat
 

rhwestfall

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I need to come up with something like that....
 

Omar_k

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rjack321

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If that’s what you’re draining into, what is the wire wool and cloth there for?

When you open the drains you are getting a blast of high pressure air with an oil water mist in it. Just putting the end of the hose in a bucket ends up spraying the water/oil condensate all over. You need something like the towel or the scrubby pads to diffuse the air blast, slow down the air velocity, allow the volume of air to exit the container fast enough, yet also allow the oily water to collect at the base without getting sprayed all over the next time you open the drains.
 

Omar_k

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When you open the drains you are getting a blast of high pressure air with an oil water mist in it. Just putting the end of the hose in a bucket ends up spraying the water/oil condensate all over. You need something like the towel or the scrubby pads to diffuse the air blast, slow down the air velocity, allow the volume of air to exit the container fast enough, yet also allow the oily water to collect at the base without getting sprayed all over the next time you open the drains.

Thanks rjack321, that makes sense. I’d never thought about that, but I think you’ve saved me making a mess in a container.

Do you know what size inner diameter hose you would need for the 6mm barb connecter on the drains? Would I also need to use a jubilee/pipe clamp to keep it in position?

Cheers
 

NAM001

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Thanks KWS - really appreciate you taking the time to help me.

I’d ideally like to avoid changing the bleed valves, if possible. If I slip a hose over the barb fitting, could I clamp it using a jubilee/pipe clamp, or would that risk damaging the end of the bleed valve?

If so, would silicone tubing work? If not, what material would work? Also, how much smaller than the outer diameter of the bleed valve should the inner diameter of the hose be in order to have a snug fit?

Thanks for the suggestion of the brick! You may have saved me spraying my water/oil everywhere!

Cheers
yes you can use a clamp if you want ,,,,, vent it some what slow though. you will find how fast you can drain when the hose blows off. The the barb is small so you dont get a lot of holding power form the clamp. crack the valve at first, let it drain and than open up a bit more so that air is causing the back pressure and not fluid.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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