Cleaning and prep of your new scuba diving mask... Defog secret recipe.

[Kazeone]

Yes the burning technique is pretty unique and is probably not required to be done frequently. Maybe initially or maybe a couple times later.

After the film is removed, it is critical to keep the glass clean. Here's a few tips we put together. We have had no problems with the flame method on our masks.

I'm not really sure if glue is used in the masks or if it is a press in fit, but my guess is that no glue is used.

The windows in my cabin fog in the winter when it’s freezing outside and I have a fire going inside. Are you telling me there is an invisible layer of silicone on my windows that’s causing them to fog?

 

[npole]

The windows in my cabin fog in the winter when it’s freezing outside and I have a fire going inside. Are you telling me there is an invisible layer of silicone on my windows that’s causing them to fog?

It's the different temperature between the outside and the inside that is forming the condense, but the layer of silicone (if present) will help for the condense to depositate.
There's nothing that can avoid the fog to form you can only mitigate it, and you need to keep the inside (the mask) temperature as much as similar to the outside (water), that's why it's important to have some water going in and recycle, rather than trying to have your face perfectly dry.

 

[tridacna]

Did YouTube remove the original video?

To be honest, the real joke video in this thread is the fake Mako video describing how one should use non-abrasive toothpaste because he is looking for a "chemical" reaction between inert toothpaste and inert silicon residue. Freaking hilarious because he then uses abrasive Colgate while trying to obscure the brand. No rubbing required. Do you suppose he brushes his teeth the same way?

Ironically, the more abrasive the toothpaste the better the result. Maybe the Mako video is an April Fool's joke?

 

[Kazeone]

It's the different temperature between the outside and the inside that is forming the condense, but the layer of silicone (if present) will help for the condense to depositate.
There's nothing that can avoid the fog to form you can only mitigate it, and you need to keep the inside (the mask) temperature as much as similar to the outside (water), that's why it's important to have some water going in and recycle, rather than trying to have your face perfectly dry.

Correct, that was my point. If the water is the same temperature as your face it shouldn’t fog. I don’t think toothpaste or fire is necessary although fun to do. A razor blade gets all types of junk off glass. Silicon comes off glass very easily. Just a bit of friction really. Dish soap and a rag works fine. Im not sure why everyone is getting so carried away. Probably a sand blaster would work best. Ha.

 

[npole]

Correct, that was my point. If the water is the same temperature as your face it shouldn’t fog. I don’t think toothpaste or fire is necessary although fun to do. A razor blade gets all types of junk off glass. Silicon comes off glass very easily. Just a bit of friction really. Dish soap and a rag works fine. Im not sure why everyone is getting so carried away. Probably a sand blaster would work best. Ha.

Production silicone residues aren't that easy to remove as you imagine, that's why the most effective procedure you can do, is to "burn" them. Also some masks (when new) are used to release the silicone vapors even after, especially if kept in their (closed) case, so the "burn" (or the toothpaste procedure) may be repeated after a while, normally when a mask is old enough isn't necessary anymore.

This is the residues... then there's the second problem, and it is about the composition of the glass itself, some glass types tends to hold back the condense more than others (again: the silicone increases this behavior dramatically...), also a perfect clean glass is never completely clean, while the time passes it start to accumulate the particles from the air, so to prevent the fogging you still need to apply a layer of "antifog", it creates a film that will prevent the formation of those small condense drops that would fog the glass. Specific antifog.. soap.. or your spit.

Also, your face temperature will be higher, no matter what, the water film you create on it will get warmer because the temperature of your body is at around 36°.. so unless you dive in a very hot water temperature, the problem will remain, even if you "wash" your face every now and then.

And to conclude: some masks are better than others. I have a Aqualung mask that I now use only as backup because no matter what I did to it, it still fog. I was forced to "burn" it at every dive because the type of glasses it uses accumulates the oily deposits very easy and so it gets foggy at every second dive. I switched to a cheap one and never had problems.

 

[tridacna]

Production silicone residues aren't that easy to remove as you imagine, that's why the most effective procedure you can do, is to "burn" them. Also some masks (when new) are used to release the silicone vapors even after, especially if kept in their (closed) case, so the "burn" (or the toothpaste procedure) may be repeated after a while, normally when a mask is old enough isn't necessary anymore.

This is the residues... then there's the second problem, and it is about the composition of the glass itself, some glass types tends to hold back the condense more than others (again: the silicone increases this behavior dramatically...), also a perfect clean glass is never completely clean, while the time passes it start to accumulate the particles from the air, so to prevent the fogging you still need to apply a layer of "antifog", it creates a film that will prevent the formation of those small condense drops that would fog the glass. Specific antifog.. soap.. or your spit.

Also, your face temperature will be higher, no matter what, the water film you create on it will get warmer because the temperature of your body is at around 36°.. so unless you dive in a very hot water temperature, the problem will remain, even if you "wash" your face every now and then.

And to conclude: some masks are better than others. I have a Aqualung mask that I now use only as backup because no matter what I did to it, it still fog. I was forced to "burn" it at every dive because the type of glasses it uses accumulates the oily deposits very easy and so it gets foggy at every second dive. I switched to a cheap one and never had problems.

Excellent explanation. The glass is the issue. No glass is perfectly smooth. It’s the micro-cavities in the glass that cause the problem. These are usually filled with factory-silicon residue until you mechanically remove it by burning or abrasion. Once the silicone is removed, the antifog actually blocks the moisture from gathering in those cavities. Burning is certainly effective but I do not recommend it due to potential damage to the frame or skirt. I’ve seen that many times.

If you have a mask with reflective properties - mirror-like lenses- be very cautious. Call the manufacturer to get advice. Never burn that lens.

 

[lowflyer]

Im not sure why everyone is getting so carried away. Probably a sand blaster would work best. Ha.

I'll give you my experience as an explanation. Several masks, aggressively rubbed with toothpaste, still fogging up and requiring anti-fog repeatedly. I took flame to them and could see the remaining silicone burning and smoking away leaving a black film that cleaned off easily. Now no need for anti-fog at all. One does need to be careful with the flame when it gets close to the edges, and I wouldn't do this with prescription or stick-on lenses or the masks with tinted glass.

 

[tridacna]

I'll give you my experience as an explanation. Several masks, aggressively rubbed with toothpaste, still fogging up and requiring anti-fog repeatedly. I took flame to them and could see the remaining silicone burning and smoking away leaving a black film that cleaned off easily. Now no need for anti-fog at all. One does need to be careful with the flame when it gets close to the edges, and I wouldn't do this with prescription or stick-on lenses or the masks with tinted glass.

Hmmm. Let me give you my perspective as an explanation too. The shop at which I work has sold about 500 masks over the past two years. Atomics, Scubapro, Cressi, Mares, Sherwood and Hollis. Every single one has been cleaned with toothpaste or mask scrub. No complaints about fogging up afterwards for any. Nada. Almost all have been in the pool with us and/or in the ocean or fresh water at Dutch Springs.

Prescription lenses are fitted after the lenses are prepped for adhesion or new ones are fitted. Not sure why you'd even mention those or stick-ons.

 

[lowflyer]

. Not sure why you'd even mention those or stick-ons.

Glad you have no fogging problems.
Why did I mention stick-ons? Because I know someone who tried the flame technique and ruined the stick-ons that he had put in the mask.

 

[tridacna]

Glad you have no fogging problems.
Why did I mention stick-ons? Because I know someone who tried the flame technique and ruined the stick-ons that he had put in the mask.

You should also warn that person not to microwave his mask either.