I just have a question about why most companies use delrin for their canisters. Why not aluminum or stainless? Also, why do they use such heavy duty latches; it seems that as you descend, the seal between the cap and the canister body would get tighter. Any info on these topics would be great. Thanks.
Canister Material
- Thread starter diverryan
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From what I've heard delrin is pretty easy to machine and the black delrin is recycled scrap, first run delrin is white, so it's cheaper.
The latches have to hold the lid on tight enough to make a good seal until the pressure starts to compress the lid. Think about what would happen if you hung out on the surface for a few minutes waiting for your buddy to splash and the latches werent holding the lid tight enough. Could get expensive.
BTW - PCV works great for a canister, you don't need delrin.
The latches have to hold the lid on tight enough to make a good seal until the pressure starts to compress the lid. Think about what would happen if you hung out on the surface for a few minutes waiting for your buddy to splash and the latches werent holding the lid tight enough. Could get expensive.
BTW - PCV works great for a canister, you don't need delrin.
Thanks Padipro. I was looking at getting a delrin rod and boring out the center but am having trouble finding a bore long enough to go down the length of the rod. I then thought of aluminum tubes sitting around and thought that that might work. We will see. Thanks again.
PerroneFord
Contributor
I think Delrin is also neutrally buoyant and unaffected by saltwater. Two HUGE pluses for this application.
diverryan:
Have you taken a look at my website yet? DIY Canister Light. If not take a lok as there are hundreds of pictures and lots of information and building you own light.
Scott, that is a wonderful site. Thank you for initiating it. Yes, I have been looking on there for some time and because I saw other people making their light, it gave me enough "courage" to take it on myself. I will update my build as it progresses on there and here. Thanks again.
Agent 47
Contributor
>>I think Delrin is also neutrally buoyant and unaffected by saltwater. Two HUGE
>>pluses for this application.
Actually, by the time you make it into a container the bouyancy of a solid piece of the base material is a practically a non-issue, as so many other factors come into play. For neutral buyancy you're looking at the outer volume of the container...i.e. how much water it displaces...vs the total weight. If the cannister is heavier than the water it displaces it will sink, lighter it will float. So for a given set of contents you can adjust the overall size of your container, and to some extent the wall thickness, to help achieve neutral buoyancy.
Yes, the resistance to saltwater is a huge plus. Aluminum or a 300 series stainless would be fine too. If you plan to do your own metal work make sure to do your research. You can make even a piece of tool steel stand up to almost endless years of underwater abuse if you know what you're doing, (though I wouldn't recommend most recreational or tech divers to bother), and you can utterly destroy the desirable properties of any piece of steel if you get crazy enough with it.
That said..man I want to build something. Have been tossing around ideas for three or four underwater projects but have just been too busy playing video games and being lazy and haven't had the extra cash to give any of em a go.
>>pluses for this application.
Actually, by the time you make it into a container the bouyancy of a solid piece of the base material is a practically a non-issue, as so many other factors come into play. For neutral buyancy you're looking at the outer volume of the container...i.e. how much water it displaces...vs the total weight. If the cannister is heavier than the water it displaces it will sink, lighter it will float. So for a given set of contents you can adjust the overall size of your container, and to some extent the wall thickness, to help achieve neutral buoyancy.
Yes, the resistance to saltwater is a huge plus. Aluminum or a 300 series stainless would be fine too. If you plan to do your own metal work make sure to do your research. You can make even a piece of tool steel stand up to almost endless years of underwater abuse if you know what you're doing, (though I wouldn't recommend most recreational or tech divers to bother), and you can utterly destroy the desirable properties of any piece of steel if you get crazy enough with it.
That said..man I want to build something. Have been tossing around ideas for three or four underwater projects but have just been too busy playing video games and being lazy and haven't had the extra cash to give any of em a go.
Daylonious
Señor Pantalones
Are there any step-by-step DIY documents out there that discuss how to build an LED cannister light?
I understand that grouping LED's together has the possibility of getting expensive - to the point where it becomes a wash between build vs. buy..
D.
I understand that grouping LED's together has the possibility of getting expensive - to the point where it becomes a wash between build vs. buy..
D.
bgray
Guest
I just finished my DIY 10watt HID. I used a 2.5in. mortar tube from www.mighty-mite.com. These came in a 2ft. length that I just cut to size. For the price I don't think it can be beat. $7 I think. I tested it to 130ft this weekend with no problems, and recieved many compliments. I was very pleased with the light. I just ordered my 21watt bulb/ballast to start my next build. Good luck, and have fun.
Daylonious
Señor Pantalones
bgray:
Do you have a step by step guide? I'd like to try a 21watt build!
D.
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