Buying my first gear and need some advice from seasoned pros!

[claymore]

Of course Beaver Divers is pushing ScubaPro that's what they sell. What about AquaLung, Apeks, Zeagle, Hog, Edge, Mares to name a few the have good equipment?

 

[eelnoraa]

I will recommand against computer with built in compass. Because 1) wrist mount compass is cheap. 2) most integreated compass computer I have seen, it can't display dive info and compass infor at the same time. This just defeats the purpose of integrated compass. IMO, a computer needs to do these things: 1) air mode, 2) recreation nitrox mode 3) gauge mode 4) easy to read display. All else is nice to have at best.

 

[beaverdivers]

Of course Beaver Divers is pushing ScubaPro that's what they sell. What about AquaLung, Apeks, Zeagle, Hog, Edge, Mares to name a few the have good equipment?

Yes, you are correct, as our status states Selling Scubapro/SubGear Gear!

Our signature line is "Your on-line Scubapro Platinum Dealer."

The OP specifically pointed out that she wants Scubapro.

 

[halocline]

The MK2 is not balanced either so will breathe harder at depth. It's also an entry level, warm water reg mostly used in rental fleets.

I don't even think you can get a MK2 sealed. Ambient temperature inside the reg can be colder than the water outside also as it's working. So freeze-ups or free-flows are more likely.

1. Balanced/unbalanced has nothing to do with how the regulator performs at depth. It refers to how the regulator IP relates to tank pressure. The MK2's IP will drop as the tank empties, but most divers won't notice any sort of increase in breathing resistance until the tank goes well below 500 PSI, even with an unbalanced 2nd stage. All regulators compensate for depth in the same way; if they didn't, they would not work for diving at all. Lots of 'professionals' confuse balancing with depth compensating.

2. The MK2 is not a sealed 1st stage, but it has excellent freeze resistance. This is due to the flow-by piston design. A while back I posted a pretty detailed description of how it works. Until this diver gets a drysuit and goes in sub 40F water, it's VERY doubtful that she'll have a freezing problem with the MK2.

Getting back to the original poster, if safety is your concern then I would not buy the BC with an integrated octo/inflator. They're horrible for air sharing, and if you have an emergency, you won't like having to share air on a short primary hose while trying to both breathe off your octo/inflator and vent the BC. It's a bad idea IMO, but of course this is a somewhat controversial topic. Think about this, though, technical divers who routinely dive in much more dangerous settings would never use one on such a dive.

I think the computer is a big waste of money, and to me wireless air integration is yet another poor solution to a problem that doesn't exist, peddling convenience over the proven reliability of a simple SPG. Please don't take this the wrong way, but if you are uncomfortable looking at a SPG and a simple wrist computer, maybe you should continue training.

The MK2 is certainly one of the most proven, reliable regulators ever made and is an excellent choice for a new diver looking for functional gear at a reasonable price. I would pass on the other stuff; find a simple wrist computer-SIMPLE!- that doesn't have a lot of bells and whistles. You're there to dive, not look at a screen, and you should be planning your dives anyway. You can do that with tables and a depth gauge. For the BC, I'd get something used that fits you well, don't spend a lot. After you get some dive experience and better awareness/control of your buoyancy and trim, you can try different systems like a backplate/wing and appreciate the difference they make in the feel of your diving. If you spend $750 for a BC, you'll be lucky to sell it for a third of that when (inevitably) you want to switch BC styles.

Probably the best gear purchase you should focus on is a wetsuit that fits you perfectly and is ideal for the environments you'll be diving in.

 

[diversteve]

1. Balanced/unbalanced has nothing to do with how the regulator performs at depth. It refers to how the regulator IP relates to tank pressure. The MK2's IP will drop as the tank empties, but most divers won't notice any sort of increase in breathing resistance until the tank goes well below 500 PSI, even with an unbalanced 2nd stage. All regulators compensate for depth in the same way; if they didn't, they would not work for diving at all. Lots of 'professionals' confuse balancing with depth compensating.

As much as it appears that what you're saying might be correct - the "professionals" at ScubaLab appear to have tested and found different results. Or doesn't overall Work of Breathing equate to how well a regulator performs at depth? Granted it's only one test session from an often questioned and maligned source but unless you can prove otherwise, I'll go with my original premise. Gear / Accessories | Scuba Diving In all fairness they didn't test a MK/R295, but hopefully we can concede that the MK2/R380 is a slightly better model for comparison vs the MK25's?

most divers won't notice any sort of increase in breathing resistance until the tank goes well below 500 PSI, even with an unbalanced 2nd stage.

What I conclude from this is that it does happen.

 

[halocline]

As much as it appears that what you're saying might be correct - the "professionals" at ScubaLab appear to have tested and found different results. Or doesn't overall Work of Breathing equate to how well a regulator performs at depth? Granted it's only one test session from an oft questioned and maligned source but unless you can prove otherwise, I'll go with my original premise. Gear / Accessories | Scuba Diving In all fairness they didn't test a MK/R295, but hopefully we can concede that the MK2/R380 is a slightly better model for comparison vs the MK25's?

What I conclude from this is that it does happen.

Certainly work of breathing numbers will be lower for higher performing regulators, and the MK25 will have VERY impressive numbers, but what I said about balancing vs depth compensation is absolutely true. One limiting factor on 1st stage performance at depth is total flow capacity, and the MK2 has a relatively modest 98 SCFM (something like that) vs the MK25's 300+ SCFM. However, keep in mind that the 2nd stage capacity (not to mention the tank valve) is far lower than 98 SCFM, which to put in perspective, is the equivalent flow of completely emptying an AL80 in about 48 seconds. That enough flow for you?

There is an amazing amount of hype and BS in regulator sales and performance description. This, unfortunately, includes the magazine tests. It's little more than advertising IMO.

I own and use a MK2/R190, as well as several other much higher performance SP regulators. I've used them all at recreational limits (about 140 ft) and can tell you from experience that they all perform basically the same at this depth that they do at much shallower depths. Which is to say, the higher performing regs do breathe more smoothly and deliver air in a more natural way. But it's fairly subtle, especially considering the barrage of 'information' that is unleashed on new divers looking to buy a regulator.

There's another thing about the MK2; it has a really excellent IP recovery for a flow-by piston reg. Coupled with an identical high performing 2nd stage (which the R295 is not really) I'd be willing to bet large sums of money that you could not tell the difference between it and a MK25 in normal recreational diving. I've tried this too, it's pretty surprising.

Getting back to the OP's interest, she did say that she was especially concerned with safety and value, and it's very hard to beat the MK2 in those regards, at least with new regulators. Actually, the only new regulator I've ever bought was a MK2 shortly after completing OW certification. Once I figured out the scam that is dive shop regulator service, I started buying used and servicing regs myself, learning a pretty good amount about how they work in the process.