I dive the Citizen Hyper Aqualand and love it. I have abused that watch very bad and haven't killed it. Even the welding slag melts in the lens are OK.
It has been through 5 battery changes and I just did a rebuild for under $100.00. It came back like a brand new watch.
What the best watch boils down to is one you can read and operate. Having some high tech thing you can't read or operate is useless.
My back-up watch is a simple Timex Expo. Rated at 100 meters and it cost a whopping $15.00 when I bought it in 1999.
Depth ratings are not exactly what they say. Because a watch is rated at 1000 meters doesn't mean it is good for that depth. There is a formula that is used that doesn't equate to depth. It has do with the pressure of moving water over the unit and not just depth. Who cares we won't be testing them at those depths anyway.
The band on any dive watch should be a single band. So if a pin brakes you don't lose the watch.
Gary D.
It has been through 5 battery changes and I just did a rebuild for under $100.00. It came back like a brand new watch.
What the best watch boils down to is one you can read and operate. Having some high tech thing you can't read or operate is useless.
My back-up watch is a simple Timex Expo. Rated at 100 meters and it cost a whopping $15.00 when I bought it in 1999.
Depth ratings are not exactly what they say. Because a watch is rated at 1000 meters doesn't mean it is good for that depth. There is a formula that is used that doesn't equate to depth. It has do with the pressure of moving water over the unit and not just depth. Who cares we won't be testing them at those depths anyway.
The band on any dive watch should be a single band. So if a pin brakes you don't lose the watch.
Gary D.