Backup Light switch (little question)

[rjack321]

The 6 to 12 inches mentioned sounds like its the size of the center spot, not the distance from an object.

I really question the rated burn times on that light though. They seem to be going for fairly high voltage with 6 cells. But AAAs have very little capacity. So I would burn test them in a bucket of water before using one in an overhead.

 

[RHungENT]

I thought the description about the gradual drop off suggested a very tight beam in the center, but still has very good lgiht (3.0EV) at 12 inches. I have a Pelican Recoil LED ($43) that has a very tight and bright collimated beam (7.3EV) with little "glow" shown by a dim (1.6EV) periphery. The Pelican LED should work great for signalling and cutting through water; but I don't like the idea that it only has one O-ring, requires the clip to be cut off and still has the attachement point way off on the side.

Well, I realize that being DIR is about time-tested reliability and consistency. So my nickel-and-dime comparisons are not so important. Just need to save for the PT.

 

[JeffG]

Well, I realize that being DIR is about time-tested reliability and consistency.

you also have to add purpose.

So if your intended use and the DIR intended use do not match for a given piece of equipment, there is no reason to pick it "just because its DIR".

 

[CompuDude]

I thought the description about the gradual drop off suggested a very tight beam in the center, but still has very good lgiht (3.0EV) at 12 inches. I have a Pelican Recoil LED ($43) that has a very tight and bright collimated beam (7.3EV) with little "glow" shown by a dim (1.6EV) periphery. The Pelican LED should work great for signalling and cutting through water; but I don't like the idea that it only has one O-ring, requires the clip to be cut off and still has the attachement point way off on the side.

Well, I realize that being DIR is about time-tested reliability and consistency. So my nickel-and-dime comparisons are not so important. Just need to save for the PT.

It's not so much a DIR thing as a proven track record. Could be the AquaStar is every bit as good as some of the other choices out there, but until a significant number of cave divers put it through it's paces and decide they're ok with trusting their lives to it, it's hard to convince people to try something new and untested, at least, when it's not from a company with a proven track record in producing lights for this precise application.

For the record, I know several people who have used the Pelican Recoils in Fundies, and their instructors were ok with it... for class. Considering I have had two of them flood on me, I would never count on one for a dive where it could mean my life... but I wouldn't feel too bad about strapping one on for a recreational dive. But since I eventually bought a PT, I could have saved some time, money and aggravation had I just started there.

 

[JeffG]

It's not so much a DIR thing as a proven track record. Could be the AquaStar is every bit as good as some of the other choices out there, but until a significant number of cave divers put it through it's paces and decide they're ok with trusting their lives to it, it's hard to convince people to try something new and untested, at least, when it's not from a company with a proven track record in producing lights for this precise application.

Gee...I have to wait until GI3 tells me it is ok to use? LOL


It might very well be a very good light. I would have to see it in the flesh to know though.

 

[RHungENT]

I found this indiv review that included the PT and the OMS

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/lights/187424-backup-light-review.html

I think the OMS is DIR-compliant, but is much smaller with shorter burn time (3hrs).
How would you think the OMS vega measures up to the PT for DIR purposes???
{funny, I live only 20min from pearland, maybe I will just do to the PT dive shop}

 

[CompuDude]

Gee...I have to wait until GI3 tells me it is ok to use? LOL

It might very well be a very good light. I would have to see it in the flesh to know though.

If you're volunteering to beta test, I'm sure with your rep people would love to hear your review... :mooner:

 

[JeffG]

If you're volunteering to beta test, I'm sure with your rep people would love to hear your review... :mooner:

Then you can do what you do best. Read it on the internet and pontificate about it.

 

[rjack321]

The Vega seems to be fine, very much like the RatJr.

If you take one into Cave1 class you might be surprised how fast the battery costs add up though. You need to replace the batteries in backups when their voltage falls below "new". I don't know what the criteria might be for CR123s, but for C batteries its 1.5V per cell in the light. I replaced the Cs in my backups once during the 5 day Cave1 class, cost = very little. CR123s are expensive little batteries and with a short burntime like 3 hours you'll probably need to replace them 2 or 3 times through the 5 day class.

Part of the reason the Scout and PT are "DIR" is that they are stupid simple inside, batteries are cheap, and they are very reliable. Yes you need to keep the o-ring clean. But you'll be checking the batteries inside before every overhead dive and every tech dive so there's plenty of opportunity to wipe the o-ring and threads clean and relube.

 

[CompuDude]

Then you can do what you do best. Read it on the internet and pontificate about it.

See, the difference is, I was actually being serious. Thanks for the personal jab. Especially having never met me.

Pot? Your kettle is calling...