Any way to ID this tank?

[Scuba-74]

Looking for help/advice from the tank gurus. I'm sort of in a process of slow search for a steel tank (or a couple of tanks) - i.e. I'd like to buy a decent used steel tank if opportunity presents itself, but I'm in no hurry.

Found an ad on CL offering a "scuba tank" for $15 (about an hour drive), with no details or pictures. Emailed the seller asking to clarify the type, size, age, etc., and got a response saying "Scuba air tank-steel know nothing else" and the attached picture.

Is there any way to ID the type of tank using this picture? I can't really read the markings, and I feel like asking a seller to read and type them in an email may lead nowhere. Can it be worth 2 hours in car and $15? Obviously the valve would need to be replaced.

 

[Scuba-74]

I believe I see an "A" in a top row, so most likely it's an aluminum tank?

 

[undrwater]

Tapered threads. Unless you're interested in vintage diving, you may want to pass.

 

[Scuba-74]

Tapered threads. Unless you're interested in vintage diving, you may want to pass.

Thanks, I'm glad I asked! I had to Google it to understand what it means. I read a few threads here that focus on buying old tanks, and know that material, age, size, pressure rating, and condition are all major factors, but I didn't know one should also look at the threads...

 

[akdeepdiver]

It’s a steel tank (3AA) made before 1966 when the ICC became the DOT. It looks like but is hard to tell that it was made by Presssed Steel Tank Co but the markings I see are very faint. Any other information would need better pictures of the stamps.

 

[Scuba-74]

It’s a steel tank (3AA) made before 1966 when the ICC became the DOT. It looks like but is hard to tell that it was made by Presssed Steel Tank Co but the markings I see are very faint. Any other information would need better pictures of the stamps.

Thank you, this info is all I need! The age of the tank and the fact that LDSs probably won't fill/inspect it due to tapered thread puts it out of consideration (for me at least).

Looks like it's in a decent shape for its age though.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

If the LDS won't inspect because of tapered threads find another LDS. I have two steel 72's with tapered threads and they are fine. If I'm not mistaken XS Scuba is selling/making valves for these and you can always find used ones cheap that can be rebuilt.
Mine are from 1953 and 1954. Current hydros and I would have no issue diving them if I didn't have a dozen other cylinders to choose from. As it is they are used for reg service on the bench.

 

[Bob DBF]

It's not obvious to me the valve needs to be replaced, unless you need a DIN fitting. I'm still using a post valve, without the j, from the '60's. As for the j-valve, if you don't engage it, put in dive position, it operates like a normal valve.

And you have the "what the he**" factor when you take it out for a dive.


Bob

 

[guruboy]

Not worth the trouble.

 

[Scuba-74]

I don't know if it's possible to coerce LDS to fill this tank or what I might find inside of it, but I guess I'll prefer something more conventional/current as my first tank