advice on first and second stage ScubaPro regs?

[halocline]

I just took a look at the regulators on SP's site, I'd go with the mk11 - c300 system. Although the G250 is/was a great regulator, if SP is discounting it, there is no reason to go after an EoL regulator.

There is absolutely zero reason to avoid the G250 just because SP is foolishly taking it out of circulation. We're talking about one of the classic regulators of all time, and SP will continue to support it for decades. In fact, if they are discontinuing it, that's an added incentive to get one. What do you think will happen to the resale value of G250s once SP stops selling them new? It will go up.

Further, virtually all of the problems SP has had throughout the years has been with new regulator designs, so it's actually riskier to get a new model. Examples were the MK15 initial seats and seat carriers, the MK20 creepola brass piston, X650, MK16 initial seat/poppet assembly.

Getting back to the OP, you said you need a reg to dive twice daily for 9 months. Is this for an extended dive trip? Are you able to service the reg during this time? If not, you're talking about doing in excess of 400 dives on the reg. If that's the case, I'd go with the MK2 rather than the MK11. The MK2 is dirt simple and extremely rugged, capable of handling a lot of abuse. For a 2nd stage I'd get the 295 or whatever it is these days, use that as your octo, and buy a used G250 or balanced/adjustable 2nd as your primary.

If I had to pull a single reg set out of my closet for a 400 dive trip, it would be a MK5/ balanced adjustable. I'd also toss a repair kit for each and a few tools in the bag....but I do that on any dive trip due to my excessive paranoia.

 

[BoltSnap]

halocline,

I don't that there is a regulator that would go up in value or can be looked at as a financial investment here.

In all cases you list, SP did a pretty good job of upgrading customers' equipment to the latest design for the ones that obtained their regulators from authorized dealers and are original/first owners.

I have MK2's and I use them for pony and as spares not for primary regulators especially for deeper dives. I have tried the MK2 U/W vs. B2 and MK25/S600 and there is CONSIDERABLE difference when making deeper dives and when there is "over-exertion" during the dive.

The OP indicates that he will be doing lots of dives over a period of time and thus the cost per dive for a much better regulator with MUCH better performance specifications will be negligible and is worth the investment.

 

[Zung]

... I don't that there is a regulator that would go up in value or can be looked at as a financial investment here...

The heat is already on: check this one out: it sold for $227.50. Above dealer's cost, I think.

 

[redacted]

The heat is already on: check this one out: it sold for $227.50. Above dealer's cost, I think.

Looks like a couple new ebayers got a bit carried away. Either that or BWI.

 

[halocline]

I have MK2's and I use them for pony and as spares not for primary regulators especially for deeper dives. I have tried the MK2 U/W vs. B2 and MK25/S600 and there is CONSIDERABLE difference when making deeper dives and when there is "over-exertion" during the dive.

With the same balanced second stage in recreational depths, you or anyone else would be hard pressed to notice ANY difference between the MK2 and the MK25 or atomic 1st stage. The only exceptions would be at extremely low (like dangerously low) tank pressures or, possibly, two divers breathing very heavily off the same 1st stage.

This is because the first stage flow rates of the MK2, while much lower than a balanced piston high performance 1st, still far exceed the flow rate of any 2nd stage.

Granted, if you do comparison dives on a MK2/R190 or similar 2nd, and a MK25/S600 or atomic, you'll notice a big difference, but that difference is in the 2nd stage, and to a lesser extent, the combination of unbalanced first with unbalanced 2nd. Try sticking the same high performance 2nd on each 1st and do comparison dives. You'll be very surprised.

Scubapro (and other companies, I suppose) like to pair low end 1sts with low end 2nds as a marketing and sales tactic. That way divers upgrade to a whole new set.

Back to the OP's situation, if he's on a 400 dive trip with no servicing on-site, the most important characteristic of the regulator is reliability and tolerance of not being serviced. The Mk2 is pretty tough to beat in terms of its track record in this regard. Lots of very experienced U.S. divers fans say the same thing about the conshelf 1st. The MK11 might be like that, but I personally don't know so I could not recommend it. It has the same poppet/seat/orifice as the MK17, which has a great reputation for IP stability, so it might be fine for 400 dives.

 

[BoltSnap]

I'd still say that a better FS and SS would do FAR better than MK2 and any SS in deeper dives and dives with heavy exertion. In fact I have tried the different combinations myself and I can certainly discern the difference. But, everyone is to his own I suppose.

In regards to the 400 dive trip with no servicing, I'd go with a sealed FS in a better regulator. Again, this scenario calls for the better regulator.

I can't count the times when a customer bought a "lesser" regulator and done lots of diving with it and then comes back and say "Oh, I wish I bought the better regulator." At the end the price difference is so insignificant over the number of dives and time described and it would make much better sense to buy a better regulator from the beginning and not look back. The price difference is probably not much more than what it would cost for a med-level meal in Europe.

 

[aquaregia]

Just get a Mk10/109 or a Mk10/G250. They're easy to find, easy to service, and I have not yet entered a dive shop wanting a "better" reg.

I've seen some regulators seriously screwed up by technicians. It really seems that correct tuning is much more important than initial purchase price.

 

[BoltSnap]

Just get a Mk10/109 or a Mk10/G250. They're easy to find, easy to service, and I have not yet entered a dive shop wanting a "better" reg.

I've seen some regulators seriously screwed up by technicians. It really seems that correct tuning is much more important than initial purchase price.

Why on earth buy old used regulators? How are they easy to find in the OP's locale? Doesn't buying a new current regulator with full mfg. warranty make more sense?

 

[superstar]

The mk2 is the reg I would go with for it's proven dependability. It will handle 400 dives easy with no problems.

 

[redacted]

Why on earth buy old used regulators? How are they easy to find in the OP's locale? Doesn't buying a new current regulator with full mfg. warranty make more sense?

No, used regs can make very good sense. With the exception of SP Pilots, I expect to pay $30 per stage, or less, for a used reg. I inspect and service them as needed myself for no more than $10 per. Then I usually expect to go 3 to 5 years before I need to service them again. Why don't you run the numbers and see what makes more sense.

Of course, there is one serious pitfall. When regs cost so little,l there is no reason no to get just one more when a great deal pops up.

BUT, if you are afraid of used gear or plan on paying some shop for service annually, then new with a free parts program may make good sense.