2nd stage Cyklon Servicing Q

[johnkennedy6664]

Hi all,

I wish to service my own regulators as I live in the Middle East I find I have to clean & replace the Christo lube on the second stages a little more often (3 - 6 months) than recommended manufactures instructions. I'm guessing the heat is the problem. I am manually using a nylon brush and fragrance free Bio soap which works.

As I'm now seeing salt deposits its time to clean using homemade LFW. The manual states if the 2nd ejector sleeve is operational don't remove it, but the catch 22 is how do you SB it in LFW without removing the sleeve as it plastic. Secondly how do you remove it without breaking it??

My next job is to tackle the 1st stages so I'm sure I'll be back on her for advice

 

[tbone1004]

there is no need to use christo lube on second stages, regardless of what gas mix goes through them. Use standard dow 111 and your regs will likely be happier in the heat. No need in the first stages unless using more than 40% nitrox.

Unsure if biosoap is going to be your best option if you want to O2 clean them, but I do find standard dawn dish detergent to be quite good. You need some sort of weak acid to break down the salt deposits properly, and diluted white vinegar works quite well for that.

ok, so what is SB in LFW?

ejector can stay on for ultrasonic and cleaning processes. If you don't want any cleaner to get absorbed or whatever, just put it in an ultrasonic with hot water and that will usually loosen the salt up enough to get most of it off with a brush.

 

[Caveeagle]

ok, so what is SB in LFW?
.

Glad it was not just me having acronym amnesia.

 

[johnkennedy6664]

there is no need to use christo lube on second stages, regardless of what gas mix goes through them. Use standard dow 111 and your regs will likely be happier in the heat. No need in the first stages unless using more than 40% nitrox.

Unsure if biosoap is going to be your best option if you want to O2 clean them, but I do find standard dawn dish detergent to be quite good. You need some sort of weak acid to break down the salt deposits properly, and diluted white vinegar works quite well for that.

ok, so what is SB in LFW?

ejector can stay on for ultrasonic and cleaning processes. If you don't want any cleaner to get absorbed or whatever, just put it in an ultrasonic with hot water and that will usually loosen the salt up enough to get most of it off with a brush.

Hi T bone
I've been scouring these forums and picking up some abbreviations.

LFW - homemade acidic solution diluted from food grade Phosphoric acid

SB- ultrasonic bath.

With 6 cyklons my last service costing a small fortune ive decided to service myself.

I was using a food grade grease as a lubricant before Christi lube so I may still have some of that grease drying out.

As I'm in Dubai a lot of the ingredients are not available.
So the degreaser was an inscented dish soap.

I was worried vinegar of my LFW Would damage the plastic (as I don't know what type of plastic ) the ejector is made from. But I'll try just hot water cheers