2023 Light Travel Regulator Recs

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I would also suggest stick to big brand, SP, AL, Atomic, ... Where you can get them look at anywhere in the world. I cannot say the same for HOG, or for that matter, Oceanic ... as much as I like it.

Since budget is a consideration, keep it simple, don't spend on Titanium or Stainless steel or any fancy metal. The weight saving for Ti is a hype, 8-9oz for 1st + 2x 2nd is all there is. Add hole SPG, snaps .. the different is negligible as a whole set. I own them and I measure the weight to confirm this for myself. The corrosion proof argument is if you neglect your gear. Brass regulator exist for a long time. Many of us are diving brass regulator for 10+ years, they are not breaking down from corrosion.

Also, don't place too much weight on environment seal in your case either. If you choose a model comes with it, great. If not, don't stress about it. You just have to rinse it a bit more thoroughly after each dive. Not a big deal at all.
 
Thank you everyone for all of your amazing input. I am looking closely at the following regs. Any additional input woudl be helpful.
- SP: MK 25, MK 11, MK 19 - Trying to understanding how the MK 19 fits into these?
- Atomic: B2, Z2/Z3, or maybe even T3 - Trying to understand the differences / tradeoffs of B2 vs Z2/Z3? Realize T3 is probably an unnecessary splurge.
- AL: Like the products but not clear what the differentiators / value proposition is of the many lines: Legend vs Mikron vs Titan vs Helix. They do seem to be quite heavy.
I use a MK 11, c370, r095 and Scubapro SPG. That is my full time regulator setup and it works great. This is a solid set up and has been around for several years. The parts are readily available and is easy to get serviced. If you dive less than 100 dives, you only need to get it serviced every two years.
 
I use a MK 11, c370, r095 and Scubapro SPG. That is my full time regulator setup and it works great. This is a solid set up and has been around for several years. The parts are readily available and is easy to get serviced. If you dive less than 100 dives, you only need to get it serviced every two years.

C370, one of my personal favourites.
 
Just did a weeks diving the GBR, used a Mk17 yoke G260a and S600, next trip it will be my Mk 19 DIN and 2 G260 , the hose routing suits me better.
Mind you, we buy SP gear cheaper than you guys, H and Apeks is more expensive, Deep 6 and others not to be seen.
Weight is not an issue, take less cloths, shoes etc.
 
The B2 is the same 1st stage as the Z2/Z3 except that it has a swivel turret. The B2 2nd stage is the same as the Z3, but with some internal parts being titanium, for slightly lighter weight and better corrosion resistance.
I think one correction to this. B2 2nd stage is NOT the same as Z3. B2 2nd stage is same as ST1, T2/3 aside from cosmetics. They all have titanium inlet tube (largest piece of metal inside), Ti level, Ti orifice. Z3 is the same as Z2, brass-zercurium inlet tube, Ti level, Ti orifice. So the the real difference betweem T3/ST1/B2 vs Z3/Z3 is just the titanium inlet tube.

2nd stage weight of what I have:
- B2: 5.9oz. This is with hose removed, with metal jam nut
- M1: 7.6oz. Same no hose, but M1 has the heavy duty heat sink attach. This heat sink itself weight 0.8oz. So B2 vs Z2 weight difference is just 0.9oz.

- M1 1st: 1lb6.4oz sealed
- T2x 1st: 15.2oz unsealed. Weight difference is 7.2oz

so 1st + 2x 2nd weight difference is 9oz or 255g. To give perspective, my travel setup, T2x 1st + 2x B2. 7ft rubber long hose, 22" rubber necklace, 18" inflator, brass SPG with 24" miflex, so very typical DIR signal setup, it measured 1794g. If I replace with Z2 completely, I am looking at 2049g (4lb 8oz). You make the call whether that $1200ish extra is worth it for 9oz saving out of 4.5lb setup.

For practical discussion, I would say use a light weight luggage, or skip the toothpaste and buy at destination ... many inexpensive way to save 9oz on packing weight
 
For practical discussion, I would say use a light weight luggage, or skip the toothpaste and buy at destination ... many inexpensive way to save 9oz on packing weight

And why not do all of the above including using a Ti regulator to save weight?? You have to look at the entire system not just a microscopic view.

The exceptional corrosion resistance for Ti (and ST) and consequential added reliability and needing less service shouldn't be undervalued or dismissed. In many places around the world, water has higher salt content and rinsing equipment in this type of water doesn't remove salt completely from the regulator. Using a Ti regulator helps a great deal. I have to come to see this clearly here where I live and dive. There several divers here use Ti SP mk25 regulators and you can tell the difference between them and the brass one, Ti regulators look like new without any corrosion. The only corrosion you may see is on the brass hose fittings not Ti parts. These divers are very happy that they are using the Ti regulators. (I don't know how they managed to afford to buy Ti SP mk25 regulators however).
 
And why not do all of the above including using a Ti regulator to save weight?? You have to look at the entire system not just a microscopic view.

The exceptional corrosion resistance for Ti (and ST) and consequential added reliability and needing less service shouldn't be undervalued or dismissed. In many places around the world, water has higher salt content and rinsing equipment in this type of water doesn't remove salt completely from the regulator. Using a Ti regulator helps a great deal. I have to come to see this clearly here where I live and dive. There several divers here use Ti SP mk25 regulators and you can tell the difference between them and the brass one, Ti regulators look like new without any corrosion. The only corrosion you may see is on the brass hose fittings not Ti parts. These divers are very happy that the are using the Ti regulators. (I don't know how they managed to afford to buy Ti SP mk25 regulators however).
I am exactly looking at the entire system, not microscopic view. saving 9oz is very easy in the entire system. It is even easily when looking at the entire suite case for travel. I guess if you did everything else, and still need to save 9oz, sure it is what it is.

People will always be happen with Ti. Major of the reason is they spent the money, lots of money. They cannot tell themselves it was not necessary. simple human nature. It is even more human nature that people with Ti (myself included), that needs to justify it with a practical reason (myself not include here).

As for people diving in your location, what is the percentage with Ti reg? Those without Ti reg, did their reg fall apart? Let's be realistic, 99.99% it isn't for practicality. It is for people with disposable money and want the fancy stuff, or in my case, I found an used one at very low price.
 
I think one correction to this. B2 2nd stage is NOT the same as Z3. B2 2nd stage is same as ST1, T2/3 aside from cosmetics. They all have titanium inlet tube (largest piece of metal inside), Ti level, Ti orifice. Z3 is the same as Z2, brass-zercurium inlet tube, Ti level, Ti orifice. So the the real difference betweem T3/ST1/B2 vs Z3/Z3 is just the titanium inlet tube.

I am unclear on what the correction is. I originally said this:

"The B2 is the same 1st stage as the Z2/Z3 except that it has a swivel turret. The B2 2nd stage is the same as the Z3, but with some internal parts being titanium, for slightly lighter weight and better corrosion resistance."

What is the correction to what I said?
 
The requirement of being supported worlwide means only Scubapro.
A cheap and good compromise for travel and warm water is MK11-C370.
Spend a bit more and accept more weight, and you get an MK17-G260 which can also be used in cold water and tech diving.
In both cases use an identical second stage as an alternate air source. Not a crap octopus like the R95.
 

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