200 vs. 300 comparing Regulators

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ding dang

Contributor
Messages
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Location
Fort Lauderdale FL
# of dives
100 - 199
What's up y'all - I don't really understand what regulators I can use with 200 and 300 manifolds. From what I understand so far, it's best to leave 200 to LP, and 300 to HP. Also, 200's are standard with yolk (DIN compatible, with the insert) valve, and 300's are standard with DIN valves, and in order to use yolk, you would have to buy the huge adapter (linked below).

THUS, Say I were to buy double 100HP's with a 300 manifold. Without any adapters, I would generally want to use DIN regulators, because of the HP. If I wanted to use yolk regulators, I would have to purchase the huge adapter (something like this).

And if I were to buy double 108LP's with a 200 manifold, I could use yolk regulators without any adapters. I could also use DIN regulators, if I were to buy a yolk-to-din adapter. HOWEVER, If I bought this setup with a 300 manifold (even though the tanks are LP), I could use DIN regulators without an adapter, as the 300 manifold is primarily for DIN regulators.

Does this all seem correct?

Thanks for the help!
 
a long question that makes it even unclear to me :)

Maybe a short summary:

regulators

YOKE (or international) fittings on regulators are most common, but they are not safe enough to cope with the forces that are introduced by the high 300 bar pressure.

DIN fittings can be made stronger, so these can be used for 300 bar (and then also 200 bar)

manifolds

200 bar manifolds come in 3 different ways:
- pure YOKE (then you need a din to yoke adapter on your DIN regulator)
- pure DIN (= same as 300 bar manifold but the internal thread will be shorter) (direct fit for a din; yoke to din adapter is needed on your yoke regulator)
- manifolds with a yoke adaptor: very comon manifolds in Europe, you can dive DIN, and for YOKE regulators, you just fit the small nut into it.

300 bar manifolds come only in DIN style, and the internal thread is longer. Such an internal nut won't work.
You could fit a yoke regulator onto it with a yoke to din adapter, but this would be against all safety-rules!
Luckily Yoke to DIN adapters are not wide spread.
 
Warm water resort type diving while on vacation Yoke.

Using your own tanks DIN

Using DIN and going warm water diving convert to Yoke.

I purchased a yoke regulator to start than for $50 bought the conversion kit to DIN. When going warm water diving I spend less than 5 minutes converting it back to yoke. They do make adapters but they put the reg into the back of your head.

DIN has way less failures. You will find with yoke you are replacing the o-rings all the time. I have one of my DIN regs that has the original o-ring with a couple hundred dives on it.

Most HP tanks come with 200 bar convertible valves. They work just fine. If purchasing a valve I would buy a 300 bar.

You will not see any tech divers with doubles and yoke valves.
 
Simple answer...

if you want to dive HP...go with DIN
if you dive LP...go with DIN....then if you ever travel anywhere with your regulators all you have to bring is a simple 35 dollar DIN to yoke converter and you can dive any tank.

If your regulators are yoke then you are limited to yoke tanks...if your regulator is DIN you can dive them all....well with exception to some vintage tanks.

but more along the lines of your question.

200 bar is generally used for LP steel or AL tanks
300 bar can be used on HP, LP or AL tanks
 
200 and 300 bar regs are just as strong as one another. And here in the States its no problem having 200bar DIN valves on 3442psi "HP" tanks. Just buy 200 bar valves its easier. And when you convert your regs you will get 300bar conversion kits - so if you ever by chance borrow a tank with 300bar DIN valves it will fit those fine too.

300 bar DIN valves cannot be converted to yoke with the insert, 200bar can but you are better off just scrapping all your yoke stuff and going 100% DIN. Get the adapter you linked to for (e.g.) caribbean travel if you do that.
 
What's up y'all - I don't really understand what regulators I can use with 200 and 300 manifolds. From what I understand so far, it's best to leave 200 to LP, and 300 to HP. Also, 200's are standard with yolk (DIN compatible, with the insert) valve, and 300's are standard with DIN valves, and in order to use yolk, you would have to buy the huge adapter (linked below).

THUS, Say I were to buy double 100HP's with a 300 manifold. Without any adapters, I would generally want to use DIN regulators, because of the HP. If I wanted to use yolk regulators, I would have to purchase the huge adapter (something like this).

And if I were to buy double 108LP's with a 200 manifold, I could use yolk regulators without any adapters. I could also use DIN regulators, if I were to buy a yolk-to-din adapter. HOWEVER, If I bought this setup with a 300 manifold (even though the tanks are LP), I could use DIN regulators without an adapter, as the 300 manifold is primarily for DIN regulators.

Does this all seem correct?

Thanks for the help!
All my regulators are 300 Bar DIN. Last count was eight. Some I bought as DIN others I bought as yoke and converted over to DIN. The primary difference between 200 and 300 DIN is thread length. I think 300 has 9 threads and 200 7. I once purchased a new Mares DIN regulator hooked it up and air blew out the connection it was a 200. Called the store back up and they had to order to right fitting.

All of my tanks are also 300 DIN so no screw in converters. When I travel I carry a yoke adaptor. Some operators have the convertible valves and will take out the insert for me.

The primary advantage of DIN is that it is a more secure fitting and you have a captured o-ring. If you plan on doing any type of technical diving like cave or wreck your instructor/agency will probably want you to have DIN be it 200 or 300.
 
THUS, Say I were to buy double 100HP's with a 300 manifold. Without any adapters, I would generally want to use DIN regulators, because of the HP. If I wanted to use yolk regulators, I would have to purchase the huge adapter (something like this).

This adapter will not work for what you are describing; it takes DIN regs and converts them to fit yoke fittings on the tank valves. The 200 Bar DIN valves come with an insert so that you can use yoke regs or DIN regs on them. The 300 Bar valves can ONLY take DIN regs. They are less versatile than the 200 Bar DIN valves, and there is no increase in strength. In fact, they're more susceptible to getting knocked out of round when there is no reg attached.

3442 PSI, or 3500 PSI tanks are no problem for any modern yoke reg, as well as any DIN reg. I have never seen a 200 Bar DIN fitting on a regulator; they're all the longer 300 bar size and will fit either the 200 or 300 Bar valves.

I don't see any reason to get 300 Bar valves on your manifold, given a choice between those and the 200 bar convertible valves. If you're talking about a used set of doubles and the price is too good to pass up, fine, just realize you will not be able to use yoke regs at all on them.
 
I don't have all the details of it, but the point is that as some pressure with a yoke design the o-ring will extrude and your toast. So the new 3442 psi was chosen as the highest "rated" pressure that a yoke could be used and not extrude the o-ring. I believe this was done to increase mass market appeal of the HP steel tanks by allowing yoke to be used, not because valve concern. Because at one time there were 3500psi tanks, but they quickly faded into 3442, not sure why, but I remember the 3500's being out for a short time. There is nothing wrong with the 200 bar convertible, nor is there anything wrong with the 300bar DIN only. I have some of both. The only time it would matter is if someone using a yoke reg wanted to use one of my tanks, I could only loan them the 200bar ones with the insert threaded in.

BTW- the DIN reg to yoke adapter that the OP linked will only allow a DIN reg to be used on a yoke tank, it will NOT allow a 300bar DIN valved tank to be used with a yoke regulator.
 

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