Stuck First Stage

[jamon]

Hi, so I just purchased my first tank, (Worthington x7 HP 100 with pro valve) and although I am attaching my first stage with "finger tightness" - i.e. not tight - after I pressurize the regulator (and subsequently completely depressurize it using the second stage regulators) the first stage is suuuuuper tight, and I can't unscrew it without a pair of pliers. Any thoughts as to what is going on, and how I can remedy it?

My regulator is a yolk style ScubaPro Mark25.

Thanks!

--Jarett

 

[jamon]

Another question: Is it possible to purchase a replacement rubberized Yolk knob? I can attach my Fiancee's regulator (an Aqualung TitanLX) to the tank, and it is really easy to attach\detach. The key difference, from what I can tell, is that the Aqualung yolk knob is rubberized, and hence is much easier\more comfortable to turn.

 

[redacted]

Sometimes a yoke o-ring will trap pressure and not depressurize when the rid is bled down. Usually you can wait a couple minutes and depressurize again to remove the 1st. You probably should try changing the o-ring on the tank valve. It is a cheap solution and often works.

Many yoke screws are interchangeable but that is not the best cure for your problem.

 

[meesier42]

buy a din valve and convert your reg, yoke valves really never were designed for 3400+psi.

although, what's likely happening is that your first stage is not completely bleeding down. try holding the purge longer and get all the pressure out.

 

[Hallmac]

Be aware that many HP hoses and circuits do not bled down as quick as the low pressure side. It is not uncommon to purge the intermediate pressure off only to find the HP side is still holding pressure. For some reason, not all first stages bleed off as smoothly as others.

Second, check the threads of your retaining screw, a little grease goes a long way and if you are diving often it is not uncommon to wash it away.

 

[RJP]

...and purge both regs and LPI. Doesn't make sense, but sometimes that helps.

 

[jamon]

I thought about switching to DIN, however I travel a good amount, and hence a yolk is useful. I've heard some negatives in re the DIN to yolk converter (hit your head, leaks, etc.) A divemaster once suggested I get a DIN conversion kit, along with the proper socket set from Scubatools, and said it was quite simple, when necessary, to switch back and forth between the two. Thoughts on this? Also, is there a reason as to why my first stage is not depressurizing all of the way?