Why not attach spool to DSMB before the dive?

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I've been taught this method, but I find it increases complexity for no benefit. We don't hold on to our DSMB, once we have enough gas in it we let it go. Now you're being pulled up while your gear is pulling you down and you have to reestablish buoyancy and trim. It's just a terrible method IMO.

I like to keep things simple where that's possible. Prepare the DSMB for deployment and then use second stage exhaust gas, another reg or LPI to inflate the DSMB. It only takes a couple of breaths at depth and the buoyancy barely has time to change. Additionally, my trim doesn't suffer and I'm not vertical, kicking up, while trying to establish buoyancy again. So not only is it easier, faster and more convenient, but you'll look much cooler doing it :wink:
Well… you know the number one rule of diving… you have to look good doing it… if you ain’t looking good… you ain’t doing it right…
 
The main advantage is that there is no change in buoyancy while you are prepping or filling the DSMB and you need only make one buoyancy adjustment during the entire process. These are distinct advantages over other methods and allow for a few precious seconds to ensure neither the DSMB nor the reel line are tangled in any gear, without ascending in the water column. For hunters who take their whole garage underwater with them, this is essential.

The only moment your buoyancy changes is when you release the DSMB, at which point a quick burst from the LP inflator will reestablish neutral buoyancy. You cannot maintain neutral buoyancy using the method you describe without first emptying some gas from your BCD prior to DSMB inflation, and then adding it back in after DSMB release (two buoyancy adjustments). The method I described above removes one of those buoyancy adjustments.

I respectfully disagree with you. With practice, this is the simplest, most efficient, and arguably the safest way to shoot an SMB from depth, IMO. But, everyone knows opinions are like a-holes....:D
What I would like to know is what configuration you are diving with if you have enough air in your BCD to fill 1/3 of DSMB?
 
The main advantage is that there is no change in buoyancy while you are prepping or filling the DSMB and you need only make one buoyancy adjustment during the entire process. These are distinct advantages over other methods and allow for a few precious seconds to ensure neither the DSMB nor the reel line are tangled in any gear, without ascending in the water column. For hunters who take their whole garage underwater with them, this is essential.

The only moment your buoyancy changes is when you release the DSMB, at which point a quick burst from the LP inflator will reestablish neutral buoyancy. You cannot maintain neutral buoyancy using the method you describe without first emptying some gas from your BCD prior to DSMB inflation, and then adding it back in after DSMB release (two buoyancy adjustments). The method I described above removes one of those buoyancy adjustments.

I respectfully disagree with you. With practice, this is the simplest, most efficient, and arguably the safest way to shoot an SMB from depth, IMO. But, everyone knows opinions are like a-holes....:D

There's no change in buoyancy with the method I described. No change in trim, no change in anything. To use the method you described, I'd need to go to completely vertical trim just to get that much gas from my wing at the end of the dive. This would be even more of a problem on CCR or if I were in a drysuit.

I tried the "transfer from wing" approach after reading a similar post some time ago. Being near the end of the dive, hardly anything came out.

There are pills for that ;)
 
that sounds like a good idea. I do that for some of my DSMBs. Got a pick though? What do you do with the bungee after you deploy?
My Bungee is attached to the Karabiner I have at the end of the spool which attached to the DSMB or what ever else I'm using. I've found that by holding the spool in one hand, and the DSMB in the other and pulling them apart the bungee easily comes off (which is more applicable to you peeps in dry gloves)

I also use a crack bottle so part of that movement is opening the valve with a quick flick of the wrist and off it flies. Highly useful when in a "bit" of a current with a scooter hanging on its leash.

My DSMB is stored in a velcro pocket on my waste belt, I can get it out while still driving the scooter then letting go of scooter quickly deploy. 15 secs would be the max. I spent a lot of time (and a fair bit of money on hardware) to perfect a system that worked in big currents and was simple and reliable.

My dive store is littered with brilliant dive gear improvements that turned out to be rubbish underwater. However all my gear is setup to be optimal for the type of diving (boat, off shore with big currents) so my ideal config may not suit others. I just offer them as an option to think about rather than a the de facto solution
 
Always carry two SMBs (dive in tidal waters). Use proper "man-sized" Halcyon SMBs which are inflated using the suit inflate hose. Used to use spools which were connected prior to the dive. Kept one SMB in each pocket.

Since moving to CCR I've realised that this is too fiddly as there's way too much going on during an ascent. Also need the gas and don't like spools if you drop them - they're off and unless you go back down to pick them up, they're a load of work to recover.

Now use a large heavy Kent Tooling reel with a CO2 bottle inflated SMB. This is trivially easy to deploy; unclip, un-bungee, unravel, clearup, look around, tug the inflator string. CO2 cylinder goes off but only has enough gas for the inflation at the surface so at 30m/100' its 1/4 inflated, so doesn't yank out of your hand and you can easily handle it, even hold it until you're ready.

The big reel is easy to wind up during the ascent. Small reels are fiddly, especially with winter gloves.

The backup SMB still lives in my pocket, but I've replaced the spools with the small Custom Divers reel.

When at the deco stops, I tend to let the reel bounce free and use it as a reference. Can squeeze the line if ascending/descending rather than change the gas in my wing.

Need to learn how to knit the double ender so it doesn't shake off the spool:
View attachment 657749



Then there's the "cave tie" to keep the thing all together, especially if clipped off to an SMB:

View attachment 657750
Ok, so this is a bit old but hopefully that won't matter. I just scrolled through half this thread looking for something like this picture / setup. So I've watched videos about how to safely connect a double ender to your reel so it will not accidentally open. No questions there. Now I bought a DSMB and reel and it was recommended to me to leave the line attached. Makes sense. But how do I now safely (!) clip the whole thing off my d ring? What I have right now is the reel connected to the DSMB with a simple loop as you would do underwater. Then a double ender through the metal ring of the DSMB and through one of the holes of the reel. But that can easily come undone. I cannot "tie" the line around the double ender as I would with just the reel though, since the line is connected to the DSMB. I cannot make out how it is done on the above picture. Can someone explain? I've looked for videos without success. I don't think it matters, but the reel is from Apeks (so with a shrinkwrapped "tip" of the line and pre-made leader).
 
Ok, so this is a bit old but hopefully that won't matter. I just scrolled through half this thread looking for something like this picture / setup. So I've watched videos about how to safely connect a double ender to your reel so it will not accidentally open. No questions there. Now I bought a DSMB and reel and it was recommended to me to leave the line attached. Makes sense. But how do I now safely (!) clip the whole thing off my d ring? What I have right now is the reel connected to the DSMB with a simple loop as you would do underwater. Then a double ender through the metal ring of the DSMB and through one of the holes of the reel. But that can easily come undone. I cannot "tie" the line around the double ender as I would with just the reel though, since the line is connected to the DSMB. I cannot make out how it is done on the above picture. Can someone explain? I've looked for videos without success. I don't think it matters, but the reel is from Apeks (so with a shrinkwrapped "tip" of the line and pre-made leader).
Spool knitting is the answer -- see page 13. It's often called a cave clip.

This shows the step-by-step process:



If you're hanging around for some time at deco, it's best to tie off the spool. You cannot just clip the double ender to the spool otherwise it's likely to bounce off with the wave action. Thus you need to knit the double-ender onto the spool so it won't jump off:

 
Spool knitting is the answer -- see page 13. It's often called a cave clip.

This shows the step-by-step process:
Ah perfect, thank you! As a follow up to that: does it matter to have two boltsnaps there (one knitted to the reel and one attached to the DSMB)? My DSMB has a metal ring and my line is attached to that. But from what I see, I could do exactly as shown in the picture sequence and then use that same double ender to clip to my d ring. Possibly clip the "knitted" side of it to the DSMB metal ring for extra safety. Objections?
 
The good thing about using a spool rather than a small reel is you can hold the spool with one hand (using thumb and middle finger through the spool) and with your index finger hold the SMB inflator against the str
ing in the spool. This leaves your other hand free to pop off the drysuit inflator hose and push it into the inflation spiggot on top of the spool. Once filled, you just lift your index finger off and up it goes with the spool rotating in your hand.

Pictures. Amazingly this isn't underwater, so things tend to dangle down a lot more than in the sea :)

Remove the double ender and clip it out of the way on your chest D-ring

IMG_7728.jpg
IMG_7729.jpg



Roll up the spare line and tidy things up:
IMG_7730.jpg
IMG_7731.jpg



Finally, roll up the slack onto the spool.

Hold the spool between thumb and middle finger. Put your index finger over the top and hold down the inflator spigot. This is now held strongly in your hand and won't get free, i.e. you can hold it like this for as long as you like. You can flick the SMB out of the way in the water.

To launch, use your drysuit inflator hose. Or your bailout. Or make sure you add a spare hose to your single-regulator rig (the easy place for this is to tape it to your SPG (pressure gauge) so it's easy to get to and tidy).

Use your other hand to GENTLY push the inflation nipple/spigot into the BCD/Schrader valve.

When ready to launch (you have looked above you, around you, nodded at your team-mate/buddy... Then flick the SMB out and press hard as it inflates. Do that for as long as you can so it's going to be properly inflated on the surface. Nobody likes a flaccid SMB.

When you've squirted in enough gas, just lift your index finger and the whole SMB will fly off to the surface and the spool will unwind between your thumb and finger.

Once it's hit the surface, make sure the slack's taken up AND RECONNECT your drysuit inflator, or don't forget it!

Signal to your teammate/buddy your target depth for your first stop and off you go... Deep breath to start then wind all the way, periodically dumping from your drysuit and BCD/wing.

DON'T DROP THE BLOODY SPOOL. OK.

When at a stop, knit the spool up as per the other pics.

Personally, when at a stop, I like to leave the spool bouncing up and down in front of me on its own. Gives you a reference depth and less hassle with the waves pulling the spool out of your hand. Leaning on it slightly negatively buoyant really isn't cool. If there's a strongish breeze, the spool can move away from you moderately quickly. Good exercise to chase it.

IMG_7732.jpg
 

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