Looking for BP/w (Single and later Doubles)

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

OP
Kitzy

Kitzy

Contributor
Messages
81
Reaction score
16
Location
Netherlands
I am looking for BP/w as I want to switch over from Jacket

My kit is... Rather complicated (For what it is), I use a massive 41 ah 14.4 volt battery with has a canister light attached to it, alongside a voltage regulator that converts the 14.4 volt to 12 volt for my heating:
My kit is heavy, incredibly heavy... 52kg, with a 10l 300 bar (This is everything)

Part of the reason I want to eventually switch to doubles, in theory I should be able to get more air for minimal increase in weight (9.5kg as of current is lead, I dive dry)

As for what exactly I am looking for inside of a BP/w, something that could work with a single but also a double, something that would support such a large battery and the voltage regulator (Ideally being able to clip the battery on easily and being able to keep the voltage regulator on the BP/w).

My budget in theory is limitless, that being said I'm a sucker for value for money and much rather not spend 200 euro's for a 1% increase in comfort.

I am rather new to BP/w so my apologies if I left out vital information, always open to questions/suggestions and thanks in advance for such!
 
I have a 72cm waist and two 20Ah cans fit comfortably on the right side, each of which has a 7.5cm diameter. The regulator attaches to the top of the lid and then has an E/O on the end of it right? Battery, regulator, then into your suit. If it’s the correct length, it shouldn’t need to attach to anything. If it’s too long, tuck the excess into the waistband or bungee part of it to the can. Does this make sense?
To the top of the lid? The regulator basically attaches to nothing, you have to keep it in place (As you can see in the picture I have it on the shoulder, easy to access, kept down with velcro)

With BP/w I would need something similar, easy to reach, and kept in place there.

Could you show a pic of how your batteries are mounted ?
 
To the top of the lid? The regulator basically attaches to nothing, you have to keep it in place (As you can see in the picture I have it on the shoulder, easy to access, kept down with velcro)

With BP/w I would need something similar, easy to reach, and kept in place there.

Could you show a pic of how your batteries are mounted ?
Wrapping the cable around the d-ring as you have pictured is a very quick way to break the cable. I’ll take a picture this weekend. The regulator attaches to the lid on one side and has the E/O on the other side, right? Place two circles of bungee on the canister. The controller loops down through those bungees, then back up and to your suit. In theory you could attach velcro to the back side of the regulator and the can. The controller is then held against the canister and lives on your right waist, where you can reach it.
 
Can you take a picture or even just give a list of all the components that you will need to attach to the BC? For people with canister lights, it's pretty much standard to attach it to the right side of the waist belt.

To the top of the lid? The regulator basically attaches to nothing, you have to keep it in place (As you can see in the picture I have it on the shoulder, easy to access, kept down with velcro)

You could attach the regulator to the battery canister with bungees. Or put it in the same place as you currently have it on the shoulder harness. Where is your backup torch currently? You would have to put that on the left side shoulder d-ring if you put the regulator on the right.
 
Wrapping the cable around the d-ring as you have pictured is a very quick way to break the cable. I’ll take a picture this weekend. The regulator attaches to the lid on one side and has the E/O on the other side, right? Place two circles of bungee on the canister. The controller loops down through those bungees, then back up and to your suit. In theory you could attach velcro to the back side of the regulator and the can. The controller is then held against the canister and lives on your right waist, where you can reach it.
So far the E/o cable has been fine, as I basically don't touch it.

The controller is attached through a RCA cable that goes into it and another E/O cable that goes out of it.

I mean... That sounds like it would work, but it is hard to visualize it.

Alrighty, thanks ^^
 
Well I much rather not have to buy another wing later on, is there truly no solution that works for both singles and doubles?

Like the XDeep NX Zen
There is no good solution that works for both.

I would focus on getting something for the diving you are doing today rather than what you think you will be doing later.

I would guess that most people that dive with both singles and doubles end up with a dedicated BP/W for both. The expensive part is the wing. Harness webbing and hardware is super cheap. And generic or used plates are pretty inexpensive too. There is no drawback to generic or used for a plate, it's just a hunk of metal with holes/slots in a few key places. So rather than mess around swapping wings, it's easier to just build up a new rig. This is an especially good idea if you want a steel plate for the single wing setup and AL for doubles.
 
Can you take a picture or even just give a list of all the components that you will need to attach to the BC? For people with canister lights, it's pretty much standard to attach it to the right side of the waist belt.



You could attach the regulator to the battery canister with bungees. Or put it in the same place as you currently have it on the shoulder harness. Where is your backup torch currently? You would have to put that on the left side shoulder d-ring if you put the regulator on the right.
Everything that has to be attached to the BC for now...

Alternative air source
Air gauge
Ideally a place to put my canister light temporarily
Battery
Voltage regulator
Quick disconnect cable place holder (For FFM)
If possible a place to hang my FFM

I think that is everything, as for my backup torch, got none... That one I lost, the diving I do atm does not require one regardless so I decided to just cut my loss for the time being.
 
Everything that has to be attached to the BC for now...

Alternative air source
Air gauge
Ideally a place to put my canister light temporarily
Battery
Voltage regulator
Quick disconnect cable place holder (For FFM)
If possible a place to hang my FFM

I think that is everything, as for my backup torch, got none... That one I lost, the diving I do atm does not require one regardless so I decided to just cut my loss for the time being.
Maybe a few photos will help. Here is one in a standard doubles tech configuration:
- primary air source on a longhose, wrapped around the torso and stored on the right chest d-ring
- secondary air source on a necklace, below the chin
- pressure gauge on left waist d-ring
- battery threaded onto the right side of the waistband
- can light stored on right chest d-ring
- also a few other things you didn't mention are present: knife sheath on waistband, 1 backup light on each d-ring, probably a DSMB on the butt d-ring, etc
diverfront.jpeg


Here's another view with can light both deployed. The end of the can light is on a "goodman handle," which allows you to mount it to the back of your left hand. Also pictured here is the diver deploying their longhose, so their backup reg is in their mouth:
diverfrontshare.jpeg


There are more photos from different angles available here: Equipment Images

So for your config, the only questions would be:
- where to store the voltage regulator?
- where to store the FFM?
- where to store the FFM quick disconnect hose?

I don't use a can light or voltage regulator, so can't speak to that. But from @grantctobin's posts in this thread, it sounds like there is a convenient way to mount it on your right waist, near the battery can.

As for the FFM, I think you can probably find a place to mount the FFM pieces, perhaps the left shoulder d-ring? Or, if you don't need to clip off the longhose to your right chest d-ring, maybe that would work. I'm not really sure, it will depend on the needs of the FFM bips and bops.

This exact same configuration works for single-tank diving as well. The only changes would be 1 less tank and 1 less first stage reg (obviously), and a different wing. As for the question about which wing to buy: wings which are marketed as working in both configs are a lie. Just start with a wing that works for the diving you actually do: single-tank. When the time comes, you can purchase a second wing for diving doubles. Don't waste your money on a dual-use wing, they're a bad solution -- you'll just end up hating it and buying 3 wings instead of 2.

Hope this helps.
 
How do most people mount things such as batteries and voltage regulators ?

How are you doing it with a BCD?

You have pretty much the same options as bcd, and then a bunch more,

Hard to tell exactly what you are doing... but I would try to simplify all the wires.
Mount the voltage regulator on the battery canister. And clean that up. Make it so you can reach it with your RH on your waist belt.. just like DIR with a canister light.

If you are worried that you are to heavy. You can have a SS and aluminum plate, get a nice wing for your application now,,, probably want a 30lb lift,
Then if you go doubles and get a bigger wing,
You slap the small wing to the aluminum plate and go traveling, nice and light, simple. Etc.

If you are in the sport any length of time, gear has a way of accumulating at your place... and you will be selling gear, because you have 4 wings 5 extra backplates, :wink:
 
Dive system has a dual purpose wing. How well it works I'm not sure.


But compared to bungees. it uses a zipper.

_0014_Mobi__0007_yellow.jpg
Thanks for the suggestion but it seems I really outta stay clear of hybrids based on the advice given here, so unless a couple of people come forward and say this really is the solution that is rather what I outta do atm
 

Back
Top Bottom