My new G250Vs and ramblings

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You guys ain't going to like this-but if you're using the same seat after all of this swapping out of parts, you may be chasing your tail.

Again, the issue is hard and soft seat separation. This points to the lever and/or seat. <--this presumes the poppet, balance chamber, and orifice are defect free.
 
But, I wonder what the thought process was when it was added to the design, I’ve never felt it served much good as designed, to show what a Venturi assist should look like peek into an old HOG or Zeagle ZX they used a curved insert (now no longer installed in HOG’s) I think case design is a better way to achieve the Venturi and the rotating flow disrupters like HOG/APEKS/Deep 6, even the SP C 370 are much better at this function. Although I like the SP design better overall this is a funky troublesome solution.
True, though a minor disadvantage of the rotating barrels used in Apeks, Zeagle, Hog, Scubapro A700 and C-series is that they are more prone to accumulate sand/silt than the vanes Scubapro and Atomic use. Obviously mainly of interest to California beach divers and similar...
 
....nah, it's back in the closet with a fresh zip tie.

You know, the only advantage I've seen with the V over the classic G250 is the seat saver purge button. How about the rest of you guys? Have you found any other improvements in the V over the standard G250? ....oh, I just thought of one-it does not need the PIA spring clip to hold in the flow vane.

I got interested in the G250V again for use as an occasional coldwater reg, and the availablilty of separately available, cheap seats (no kits required to keep it going). Both the G250 and G250V would serve me equally well for that.

But some years ago I bought 5 G250s off Ebay, and got four of them to breathe just fine, while only one of them was "magic" with lowest cracking effort and smooth breathing (best reg I ever had, felt almost as good as the D400 I tried). Then I got into Atomics with microadjustment as Lexvil said. The G250V is newer and I recently figured it is more lkely that all parts are fresh, in spec and achieve that performance without the need to buy new spings/levers/orifices a vintage reg off Ebay might need. The Halo Jam nut on the V is also great, more important than the seat saver to me.

If I instead had a G250 that breathes really well, I'd be just as happy. Both these regs are so easy to take apart and seats are cheap, that I would not mind the lack of a seat saver, and changing seats every year.
 
Step one, disassemble, clean, new seat, new.216 spring. The flow vane I'm 99% is not the "cause". As a side note I did use plain silicone grease on these two whereas I used christo on all the ones I built and sold, I may have been a bit more liberal with its usage, "could" be a factor.
 
You guys ain't going to like this-but if you're using the same seat after all of this swapping out of parts, you may be chasing your tail.

Again, the issue is hard and soft seat separation. This points to the lever and/or seat. <--this presumes the poppet, balance chamber, and orifice are defect free.

Could see no noticeable set on the seats but will swap seat just to rule that out. Thanks.
 
It's the adj knob. Or more specifically its position.

I totally rebuilt one, new everything, no free flow. But, when I turned adj knob a mm or 2 in it would violently free flow.

It seems something is happening with range of travel when it's screwed all the way out, like it's going beyond some thresh hold. You can "feel" it when you screw it all the way out. I pulled it apart different spring, same result, no free flow, screw adj knob in just a fraction and it will violently free flow.

I've repeated this multiple of 10 times, same result. I do not believe it's the spring or flow vane. It's the adj knob, actual mechanics etc beyond my brain power or knowledge but that's what I've found.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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