How do you setup your primary and secondary regulators/hoses for recreational?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

This thread is a great example of the value of SB. The OP asked a good question, and received A LOT of valuable feedback in a relatively short time – 70 posts in 30 hours! I think the volume of response offers ample evidence of the interest of SB users in the specific topic.

I personally use a long (7’) primary hose and bungeed necklace-positioned alternate, for recreational diving. My wife uses the same configuration. It works well for us, the 7’ hose is not in any way cumbersome or difficult to manage, and we regularly practice sharing air, as both donor and recipient. And, because my wife uses much less gas than I do, I not infrequently will breath from her long hose for a few minutes during a dive, so that we end up with similar amounts of gas at the time we begin our final ascent. :) Having a 7’ hose allows us to swim comfortably together, and still see interesting reef critters, etc. What others divers in this thread choose to use is up to them. So, my subsequent point will not be to agree or disagree with regard to hose lengths in particular, only to share my perspective and experience.

As a PADI instructor, I have until the past several years faced a slight dilemma. I personally believe (firmly) in ‘primary donate’. However, I was originally taught as a student diver years ago, and initially taught others years ago, that in an OOA situation, the donor should go into the ‘hold-up’ position (hands / arms stretched up above the head and out of the way) and allow the OOA diver to secure their secondary / alternate second stage, which was placed in a presumably accessible position somewhere in the triangle formed by the chin and the lower edges of the ribcage (an area I refer to as the Bermuda Triangle). IOW, I was teaching passive secondary donation, when in my personal recreational diving I was already using / practicing active primary donation.

Fortunately, with the ~2012 revision of the OW training program, PADI began to emphasize ‘active’ donation of a second stage. And, as boulderjohn pointed out, PADI did not take a specific position on whether that should be the primary or the secondary / alternate. That ‘neutrality’ is a benefit to many instructors. I can teach active donation of the primary, which (from my perspective) is unquestionably the best approach, and which meets the stipulation of positioning in the ‘triangle’ – it is in my mouth, at the top of the triangle. The challenge for me is that, with common (I hesitate to use the term ‘standard’) hose lengths found on shop regulators used for training and rental, I might be donating a primary on a 30” or 32” (possibly a 36”) hose. While doable, the positioning is just a bit awkward, and puts some torque on the primary hose when the donor and recipient are facing each other, which makes it harder for the out of air diver to keep the second stage in their mouth. So, I teach that – with the common hose length configuration - the student should use the second stage (on the 40” hose) as their primary, and put what was the primary – the second stage on the shorter hose - on a bungee necklace, positioned for ready use should they need to donate their primary to an OOA diver (I even loan the bungee necklace to students during OW training). If that (formerly alternate) second stage happens to have a yellow casing / purge cover, and / or is on a yellow 40” hose, all the better! Either / both makes it easier for an OOA diver to see. This configuration is not altogether perfect – running a 40” hose over the shoulder allows it to bow out a bit, and I find it easier to run it under the (right) arm. However, in that case, I also find that use of a 70 degree adapter between the hose and the second stage, allows for a more comfortable position of the second stage. I also confess that I did not come up with the idea of using the 40" hose as the primary - I adopted the idea from what several university-based OW programs are successfully doing.

A nagging personal concern is that this approach is not necessarily consistent with what other instructors in my current shop are doing, and I was raised in a shop that really emphasized consistency of teaching methodology across the instructor corps. But, in my current environment, there has not been particular emphasis on, or particular interest in, consistency among instructors in teaching methods, so it doesn’t pose a real problem. I do what I believe to be best for the student diver.

What I tell divers approaching the purchase of their first regulator set: a) purchase whatever regulator they prefer (I have definite suggestions but the brand / model is really up to them, after all it is their money); b) purchase two identical, or at least functionally equivalent, second stages – i.e. do not opt for a cheap, lower performing, needlessly detuned ‘octo’ as their alternate, simply because it is less expensive and they ‘probably won’t ever need it anyway’; c) purchase a 30” hose for their alternate second stage, and a 40”, or a 60” or a 72” hose for their primary. A 40” works. As mentioned, I personally prefer a 72” even for recreational diving, and do not find it in any way to be a bother, or somehow unnecessary. And, some people find that a 60” hose is the perfect compromise between the two. But, active primary donation will work with any of those lengths, and what is most important is the procedure, not the hose length.

I don’t know that it is essential to begin gear acquisition by using the same configuration in which you were trained. If that makes a diver feel more comfortable, fine. But, I do think it is essential for divers to immediately become familiar with, and facile in the use of, whatever configuration they choose to buy. And, that means practicing, and practicing, and practicing the skills learned in Open Water AFTER they become certified. A reasonably competent diver can learn a new configuration, and rather easily for the most part. But, whether new or old, any configuration not practiced can quickly become a ‘cluster’ in an emergency.
 
Last edited:
@Colliam7
That was a very insightful post, thank you.

I started with my current config (40" hose on both seconds) after a debrief with my (BSAC) instructor who suggested it as an alternative config. I changed the hose placement over on the boat, and we rolled in for another "realistic" exercise. I found this config worked best for me and controller the OOA person, but I never say it's the best way.

I'm currently at the start of my PADI DM training (I hold an equivalent BSAC DL already) and do wonder if my config will cause confusion to others - although I've been assure that if I brief my rig, it'll be fine. I am tempted to put on my 60" hose for the equipment exchange, although that might be cheating.

What I found interesting it your comments on the teaching standard (as DM is a stepping stone for IDC for me later this year) and I wondered if I would need to have a teaching reg set with conventional lengths and positions.

Something to discuss with my instructors
 
I started with my current config (40" hose on both seconds) after a debrief with my (BSAC) instructor who suggested it as an alternative config.
Interesting! I have not encountered that particular configuration before. But, it appears to work for you, and I can now say I am at least aware of it. So, thank you for that information!
I'm currently at the start of my PADI DM training (I hold an equivalent BSAC DL already) and do wonder if my config will cause confusion to others - although I've been assure that if I brief my rig, it'll be fine.
I don't think a different configuration, if briefed properly, should necessarily cause confusion for student divers. That's just my personal view. But, if a shop / Club wants all staff personnel to be similarly equipped, I can also understand that approach.
I am tempted to put on my 60" hose for the equipment exchange, although that might be cheating.
LOL. I did my DM gear exchange with conventional length hoses. Had we only had a 60" or a 72" . . . :)
I wondered if I would need to have a teaching reg set with conventional lengths and positions.
When I started DM training, I was already using a long hose for personal diving. So, I acquired a (used) reg, with conventional - in my case 30" and 40" - hose lengths, for teaching work. Still have that reg today, in fact. I was also already using a backplate and wing, and I similarly acquired a (used) jacket BCD for my DM and IDC training, and subsequent teaching activities. And, I still have that BCD today, as well, although it is now relegated to the status of 'relic'. I just can't seem to bring myself to part with it.
 
do not opt for a cheap, lower performing, needlessly detuned ‘octo’ as their alternate
I totally agree on not buying a lower performing secondary. However, I prefer that my primary is tuned pretty sharp. In fact, sharper than would be good for my secondary, since my primary has a tendency to freeflow when I take it out. Now, to avoid my secondary from freeflowing on any and every occasion, it has to be tuned somewhat down compared to my primary. Otherwise, I'd spend an inordinate amount of my bottom time handling freeflows from my secondary. That's kinda annoying, and that burst of air under my chin usually ends up inside my hood. That's annoying, too.
 
Otherwise, I'd spend an inordinate amount of my bottom time handling freeflows from my secondary.
Interesting. Do you find that happens even with the venturi control in the 'Pre-dive' position?

I only use second stages that have a venturi control and a user-adjustable breathing knob. I seldom adjust the UAB setting. But, I keep by bungeed reg in the pre-dive position, and haven't had too much trouble.
 
My secondary is an Apeks XTX40. It doesn't have a venturi control knob. And it's SOP that my primary (XTX100) freeflows somewhat when I take it out to fill a dSMB. I have to consciously hold it mouthpiece down to avoid that.
 
My secondary is an Apeks XTX40. It doesn't have a venturi control knob.
Hmm. I thought the 40 had a venturi control, but not UAB.
And it's SOP that my primary (XTX100) freeflows somewhat when I take it out to fill a dSMB. I have to consciously hold it mouthpiece down to avoid that.
OK, I guess I can see that. I don't have mine tuned quite that sharp. But, if it works for you . . .
 
Between us, if you give your second stage to the OOA guy and you go to a "lesser" quality second stage for yourself, I do not see a huge problem. Nowadays, regulators that are not "top of the line" are pretty good and since with an OOA emergency, my guess is that you will be pretty fast to 60 feet and shallower.

An additional advantage to the technique of giving your ow primary to the OOA diver :)

FYI, my two second stages are both Aqualung Titan. Not the top of the line but pretty good at recreational depth.

When I am using a deco bottle, I am using an Octopus: it is used above 30 feet, no big a deal.
 
However, I prefer that my primary is tuned pretty sharp. In fact, sharper than would be good for my secondary

Out of interest, why do you have your primary tuned that sharply? I would have assumed that wouldn't be the case in cold water? Interest in knowing the reason
 

Back
Top Bottom