What can you tell me about this stuff?

[Arkman]

I'm assuming that this is pre 1980 since most my dads dive stuff was. What can you tell me about these items? He first one was his alt. air source and I was told that its no longer serviceable. The other is a bottom timer, I was also told that didn't work so I decided to put it away. Today I got to playing with it and I'm almost certain it works. From what I can tell there is a pressure plate on the back that activates once its under a certain pressure. If I gently press that down the timer starts to go.

Just curious what info you guys might have on this stuff.

 

[bygolly]

Don't know much about the second stage but I am familiar with the bottom timer. I have a couple of them and I still use them as a backup instrument. If you pressed on the diaphragm on the back the second hand moved it probably works. Keep holding it down and see if the minute hand moves. If so you have a good piece of kit. To reset pull up on the silver knob and turn till the minute hand is back to zero. When the silver knob is pushed back down you can wind the mechanism much like an old pocket watch ready for the next dive.

Good find!

edit added: Mine has an identical appearance with the black rubber boot and silver top and a similar dial face so I would say that it is an early '80's vintage

 

[herman]

Bygolly has the timer covered.

I do not know what brand the second stage is but I would not be too quick to write if off as unserviceable. I can't tell from the one photo but if it's a standard down stream design (as opposed to a tilt valve) it should be repairable as long as you can find a good diaphram for it.....and that is assuming the one in it is bad. The old rubber ones do not hold up but later ones made of silicone usually are still good. A large part of the time the statement "it can't be serviced" is LDS speak for "we want to sell you a new one" or "we just don't want to spend the time trying".

Pop the cover off and shoot a photo of the inside, we can give you better advice if we can see what it's design is. It should come apart easily if you remove the 2 screws from the metal bands. You can also make a call on the condition of the diaphram once you have it apart. It will not preform like a modern high preformance design but if it were me, I would like to have it diveable just because it was my dads.

 

[Arkman]

Bygolly has the timer covered.
Pop the cover off and shoot a photo of the inside, we can give you better advice if we can see what it's design is. It should come apart easily if you remove the 2 screws from the metal bands. You can also make a call on the condition of the diaphram once you have it apart. It will not preform like a modern high preformance design but if it were me, I would like to have it diveable just because it was my dads.

I defiantly want to make it diveable for that very reason. My dad didn't dive much but before he died he told me a few stories and thats the reason I'm in the sport!

I took some photos. Its really dirty in there...really bad. At least to my untrained eye it looks bad. The diaphragm looks fine. Its not hard or cracked or anything like that.

 

[herman]

What I figured, that is a classic design and parts are easy to come by. No problem at all to get back in service as long as the housing is not cracked and the orifice is OK (most likely). A good scrubbing with a toothbrush (and toothpaste makes a good cleaner too ) and a few new parts and it will work as good a new. The only parts you need to replace are the LP seat and the exhaust diaphram, both of which are common parts that are still used on a lot of regs. If you want to do it yourself, go to Vintage Double Hose download section and download the early US Divers service manual and read the Conshelf second stage service procedure, the 2 regs are very similar and it will give you enough information to do the job. The parts are going to be the hard part, most shops will not sell you parts and you are going to have to find one that is willing to dig through the parts to find the right exhaust valve. The LP seat is easy, you can make them yourself (instruction on this board- do a search) or you can buy them from Vintage DH ($3), it's the same one that goes in most of the old DH regs. If you will, post 1 more photo of the exhaust valve (remove the 2 screws in the photo and the exhaust T will come off) and while you are at it hold a good ruler across it so we can determine the size and type (they come in flat and mushroom).

 

[JamesBon92007]

I took some photos. Its really dirty in there...really bad. At least to my untrained eye it looks bad.

Looks good to me. I don't see any corrosion in your photos!

 

[Arkman]

I'll try to get some more photos tonight or tomorrow. I can't seem to figure out what kind of reg it is but the logo on he purge button look like 3 dolphins maybe...sort of one figure but it makes the shape of three (i think) dolphins.

 

[Arkman]

I dove last night with the bottom timer and it seemed to work. It started ticking between 5-10' and seemed to keep accurate time. That was sort of neat. I'm glad I decided to try it out.

 

[bygolly]

I dove last night with the bottom timer and it seemed to work. It started ticking between 5-10' and seemed to keep accurate time. That was sort of neat. I'm glad I decided to try it out.

That's good to hear. I guess the thing I like best about that bottom timer is the analog display. One glance and you instantly know where you stand even if you can't clearly read the numbers (aging eyes...haven't found the best U/W solution yet). I have started to change all of my instruments to analog...depth gauge etc. for that reason. Still carry the computer but I refer to it less and less these days...especially on those single tank days.

 

[Couv]

My guess is that second stage was a generic made by Sub Aquatic Systems. They also made Z90 and the sort. Herman is correct, it's a classic downstream dual adjustment valve and takes a puck style soft seat and probably a couple of standard o-rings.

One word of caution: be sure to use a backup wrench when removing the hose from the valve and the valve from the case or you could damage the plastic case.

The second picture in post #4 shows a spot where the second stage lever rubs. I cannot tell for sure if that is a gouge or just a bit of discoloration. If it's a gouge, rotate the diaphragm so the lever will not abrade that spot any more.

Good luck and keep us posted,

Couv

Edit:
See this thread for a similar valve and poppet assembly video:

Scubapro R380 video