Will this gear work ok for my location?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

tenover

Registered
Messages
40
Reaction score
2
Location
Point Loma, CA
# of dives
0 - 24
Recently certified and have been slowly buying gear. I found a guy who was trying to sell most of his gear because he just didn't have the time to dive anymore, and the price was great. Just looking for some "confirmation" from the pro's here so I feel a little more assured that what I got will work for me. I live, was certified, and will be doing most of my diving here in San Diego, so the water temps are pretty chilly outside of summer time. Here's what I have now, but haven't used any of it yet...

Already had this equipment and have dove with it:
Body Glove 7mil. dive wetsuit 7 mil. booties. 5 mil. gloves
7 mil. hood
Riffe black silicone frameless mask
Cressi Frog Plus fins

This is the gear I purchased used. Everything looks to be in excellent shape, fits me perfect, and works as expected on land:
Oceanic VEO 100nx dive computer
Sherwood Octo/backup reg.
Cressi Sub Ellipse Black Mc5 reg.
Zeagle Stiletto BCD (knife, light, whistle included)

Will be buying a new Catalina aluminum 80 this week.....After that, I'll just be looking for some weights and I should be good to go. Just wondering if you can see any reason why any of this equipment wouldn't be good for diving in the waters here in San Diego in colder temps. Thanks in advance.
 
Last edited:
I don't know anything about those regs, but you're unlikely to get into temperatures where you are that run the risk of freezing them, anyway.

The one thing I would recommend is AGAINST buying an aluminum tank. You're going to be carrying enough weight as it is, with the thick suit. Using a steel tank allows you to make the tank part of your ballast, so it reduces the total weight you have to carry into the water.
 
I'm a San Diego local diver, but I have no personal experience with the brand of gear you purchased.

If the used gear you bought is in proper functioning order, then you should be able to use it for local diving without issue.
Zeagle makes excellent BCDs. Oceanic computers are quite popular. Before buying a used dive computer, I prefer to take it on a dive and compare it to another dive computer known to be functioning properly.
Hopefully, you had the reg setup tested by a reg tech and overhauled if necessary. Many used regs being sold are overdue for service. Reg servicing for a complete single tank reg setup (1 first stage + 2 second stages) can cost $75-$125 including parts and labor.

There's nothing wrong with an AL80 tank. I own an AL80 and use it all the time. It works great. It's a common first tank that newbies purchase. New AL80s can be bought for approx. $150 and sometimes include a "free" airfill card (10 fills?). That being said, as TSandM mentioned, steel tanks generally have more inherent ballast than an AL80. This is one reason that cold water divers, who use a fair amount of ballast, gravitate toward using steel tanks rather than aluminum ones.

A popular steel tank here in San Diego is the HP100. It offers 25% more gas capacity than a Catalina AL80 and provides approx. 6 lbs. more inherent ballast (you get to remove 6 lbs. of lead from your weightbelt!). All other things being equal, as you trudge along the beach for a shore dive, you'll be carrying slightly less "dry" weight with a HP100 vs. AL80...and you get the benefit of having more gas.

Brand new HP100 tanks go for $300-$350.
Used HP100 tanks are often sold on Craigslist for $150-$250.
If you plan on buying a used tank, make sure that you figure in the cost of tumbling (if rust inside), hydrotesting (once every 5 years), and VIPs (annual inspection) into the cost to make the tank diveable.
 
The used gear looks great, but I agree with Lynn: get a steel tank for those chilly Cali waters.
 
This is the gear I purchased used. Everything looks to be in excellent shape, fits me perfect, and works as expected on land:
Oceanic VEO 100nx dive computer
Sherwood Octo/backup reg.
Cressi Sub Ellipse Black Mc5 reg.
Zeagle Stiletto BCD (knife, light, whistle included)

Even if all of it works as expected on land, personally I would have the BCD and regs serviced before I'd dive with them.
 
Recently certified and have been slowly buying gear. I found a guy who was trying to sell most of his gear because he just didn't have the time to dive anymore, and the price was great.
That is always nice when buying equipment. :)
tenover:
This is the gear I purchased used:
Oceanic VEO 100nx dive computer
Sherwood Octo/backup reg.
Cressi Sub Ellipse Black Mc5 reg.
Zeagle Stiletto BCD (knife, light, whistle included)

Will be buying a new Catalina aluminum 80 this week.....After that, I'll just be looking for some weights and I should be good to go. Just wondering if you can see any reason why any of this equipment wouldn't be good for diving in the waters here in San Diego in colder temps.
Nothing wrong with the gear for colder waters. Stilleto is a very good, functional, back-inflate, weight-integrated BCD, lightweight enough for travel, plenty of lift for single cylinder diving. The reg is a lower mid-range unit, and the second stage is unbalanced, and non-adjustable. You will just have to see if it breaths well for you at depth (not an implied negative comment - this reg is a very basic, simple unit which should work well). Some might prefer it for diving colder waters (possibly slightly less prone to second stage free-flow) Some divers might not like the Mc5 because it only has one HP port, and only 3 LP ports. But, you really don't need any more ports, unless you want to use both a SPG and a wireless air-integrated computer with a transmitter (which would require 2 HP ports), or unless you wanted to go to a drysuit, in which case you would want a 4th LP port for the DS inflator, or you might have to re-configure to a combo octo/inflator. That wouldn't be a serious issue.

I agree with having the reg serviced before diving it. If the BCD holds air overnioght, if it inflates and defaltes properly, I wouldn't be as concerned with having it serviced, although that is never a bad idea.

I also agree with the recommendation for steel tanks. Nothing at all wrong with an AL80. But, if I am diving thick neoprene (a 7mm) with a 'soft' BCD (i.e. not a steel backplate), I need a lot of lead, and going to a steel tank obviates the need for some of that added lead. In my experience, which may not be the same for you, when I used a Zeagle Ranger (also, back-inflate, weight-integrated) with a very buoyant exposure suit, and an AL80), I needed so much weight that using only the weight pockets on the Zeagle was a challenge. The bulky weight put a lot of strain on the fabric around the weight pockets, and created an awkward surface position (a bit face-down). I found a steel tank gave me much better positioning at the surface, and allowed me to take some of the weight out of the pockets.
 
Thanks for all the replies. I think I will go with a steel tank right from the get go after reading up on the differences. I will also have my reg serviced and check the BCD overnight for any deflation/links. Again, much appreciated.
 
In my experience, which may not be the same for you, when I used a Zeagle Ranger (also, back-inflate, weight-integrated) with a very buoyant exposure suit, and an AL80), I needed so much weight that using only the weight pockets on the Zeagle was a challenge. The bulky weight put a lot of strain on the fabric around the weight pockets, and created an awkward surface position (a bit face-down). I found a steel tank gave me much better positioning at the surface, and allowed me to take some of the weight out of the pockets.
@Colliam7: As an instructor, I realize that you already know the following. I'm adding it because I think it would be informative for beginner divers who might stumble upon this thread...

If a diver needs more ballast than his weight-integrated BCD can safely accommodate, it is much safer to explore alternative methods of attaching ballast to the rig -- weightbelt, separate weight harness, weight pockets attached to tank cambands, etc. Over-stuffing weight pockets can sometimes complicate weight-release during an intentional ditching maneuver. Moreover, as you found, weight distribution can be suboptimal for surface swimming (or UW swimming).

Here in San Diego, I have encountered a number of beginner divers who complained that their BCD weight pockets weren't big enough to accommodate the lead weight that they needed (with a rig coincidentally featuring an AL80 tank). In such situations, newbies do weird things like max out their trim weight pockets (located high on the BCD) when it is inappropriate to have so much weight in that location. In all of these cases, with attention to proper weighting (weight check) and proper distribution of that weight (to promote horizontal trim), the divers were able to construct a properly balanced rig...even with an AL80.

Of course, it's also prudent to ensure that the BCD has the appropriate amount of lift given how much (and where) the ballast is attached. Very few students exiting basic OW class know how to calculate whether a BCD has "enough" lift. This is probably due to the fact that the vast majority of recreational BCDs on the market provide excessive lift. :idk:
 
tenover, it seems fine - you can rent tanks pretty inexpensively at Dive California on Point Loma (corner of W. Pt Loma blvd/Sports Arena blvd) until you know what you want to buy. Steel is the way to go with the thick suit. Also, be mindful of temperature. Most folks we dive with opt to go dry, but there are some hardier divers that get by with the 7mm. Pre-flushing your suit with warm water helps - after as well if you're going to do more than one dive.

Hit me up if you're ever looking for local dive buddies, we go out a few days a week.
 
If a diver needs more ballast than his weight-integrated BCD can safely accommodate, it is much safer to explore alternative methods of attaching ballast to the rig -- weightbelt, separate weight harness, weight pockets attached to tank cambands, etc.
Absolutely. And, unfortunately, that is not where many newer divers are in their development. They may have just spent a not inconsiderable amount of money on a bright, brand new, weight-integrated BCD (possibly, even in spite of a recommendation from an instructor, that a weight belt is the better starting point :)), and discussing the need to buy a weight harness, or even weight pockets for the tank cam bands, in addition, is not what they want to hear.

I went down that road very early in my diving (and have a nice DUI Weight and Trim harness that has sat unused in a dive box in my garage for 8 years). When divers who have AL80s, and have just bought a drysuit, now ask whether they should consider a harness, I generally answer, 'NO'. The better solution is to work toward optimal weighting, and then possibly employ a simpler, and less expensive, gear approach (if needed) such as weight pockets on the cam bands.
bubbletrubble:
Over-stuffing weight pockets can sometimes complicate weight-release during an intentional ditching maneuver. Moreover, as you found, weight distribution can be suboptimal for surface swimming (or UW swimming).
I have made these comments in a number of other threads, as well. It is one reason that I have not generally been an advocate of weight-integrated BCDs, for newer divers in particular. While the possibility of interfering with weight release exists, dropping weights is fortunately an action that is seldom needed. A far more common result of overweighting is the comment that, 'a back-inflate BCD will push you face down in the water'. And, that is where excessive weight (because of i) a very buoyant exposure suit, and ii) the tendancy of many newer divers to overweight themselves), combined with a weight-intregrated BCD, creates a false impression. It is not (only) the position of the lift (behind the diver), per se, that creates the face-down attitude, it is as much the position (and amount) of the weight. On many weight-integrated BCDs, the weight pockets are slightly forward of the midline of the diver's torso, when viewed from the side in a vertical position. The lift is aft of / behind that midline. More weight in front, combined with more lift in back, and down the face goes. And, when a diver starts to go face down, the instinctive reaction is to add air to the BCD, making the problem worse. And, when is it particulaly noticeable to the diver? Frequently, it is at the end of their dive, when they have surfaced and are re-boarding the boat or heading to shore, when their (now near empty) AL80 has moved from being somewhat negatively buoyant, to being neutral, or slightly positive. More relative lift has now been added behind them, further enhancing the sensation.
bubbletrubble:
Here in San Diego, I have encountered a number of beginner divers who complained that their BCD weight pockets weren't big enough to accommodate the lead weight that they needed (with a rig coincidentally featuring an AL80 tank).
If it is any solace, it is not just San Diego. We see it in the east, where people are diving cold quarries.
bubbletrubble:
In all of these cases, with attention to proper weighting (weight check) and proper distribution of that weight (to promote horizontal trim), the divers were able to construct a properly balanced rig...even with an AL80.
Fully agree. It can be done with an AL80. If that is what a diver has to work with, great. And, I do not generally believe in technology / gear solutions to a technique problem. But, if a diver is buying a new/ first cylinder, and they know they will be using a buoyant exposure suit, I also believe it is better to get something that doesn't add to their ballast need, and which has a bit more air, anyway. An alternative argument could be, 'Learn to weight yourself properly for an AL80 and everything else will be easier.' I often tell students that. But, I also tell them that, by and large, going with a slightly larger, steel cylinder, when they finally buy a cylinder, is a wise purchase. If nothing else, resale value is higher.
bubbletrubble:
Very few students exiting basic OW class know how to calculate whether a BCD has "enough" lift. This is probably due to the fact that the vast majority of recreational BCDs on the market provide excessive lift.
Fully agree. Lift calculation is not something that is usually covered in the OW curriculum (unless the instructor adds it to the discussion). Frankly, at the OW level, it is just one more concept, and piece of information, to get lost (and subsequently forgotten) in the the sea of factoids. (If I have to choose between gas management and lift calculation because of time limitations, I know what I am going to choose to cover.) I do, however, raise it in AOW (and even direct AOW students to ScubaBoard and tell them to search for threads where Tobin offers estimates of lift calculation).

There was recent thread in one of the Equipment forums involving a diver who wanted to purchase a Ranger as a first BCD. I recommended against doing so. I am a very big fan of Zeagle products (good quality and excellent after-sale support), the Ranger is a marvelous BCD, my first BCD was a Ranger, and it is one of the more comfortable BCDs I have ever worn. But, at 44 lbs of lift, is is conspicuously over-sized for single cylinder diving. The Stiletto, which the OP in this thread recently purchased, is somewhat less over-sized (at 38 lbs). But, you are 'spot on' - many BCDs are simply oversized for the needs of single cylinders.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom