billtodive
Contributor
scubamikey:
Suppose LDS would fill it?
Will a LP 85 Steel tank last for my typical dive?
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Suppose LDS would fill it?
OP
scubamikey
Contributor
billtodive:
Yeah, but it's a $100 fill...
cummings66
Contributor
Based on your numbers, I'll make it easy and say your SAC is 1 although you could claim .97 but 1 is easier to figure.
If I was you, based on the weight you had, the wetsuit and all, I'd buy a HP 100 tank and not look back. It's going to put you about equal to the AL80 divers right now, and later as you improve it's going to give you more time.
The benefits are less weight on a belt or in pockets and better characteristics compared to an AL80 tank. If you're a tall person maybe an HP120 would work fine as well. I wouldn't want to go bigger than that.
If I was you, based on the weight you had, the wetsuit and all, I'd buy a HP 100 tank and not look back. It's going to put you about equal to the AL80 divers right now, and later as you improve it's going to give you more time.
The benefits are less weight on a belt or in pockets and better characteristics compared to an AL80 tank. If you're a tall person maybe an HP120 would work fine as well. I wouldn't want to go bigger than that.
Frankly, if you haven't bought your other gear, I'd hold off on buying a tank -- they're pretty cheap to rent. Spend the money on the other stuff, and rent tanks until you get comfortable enough in the water that your SAC rate stabilizes and you know what you really need for the dives you are doing.
I dive a LP95 which I love, because it trims out so nicely, but it's WAY more gas than I can use on a dive locally, because I get cold before I get below about 1200 psi.
I dive a LP95 which I love, because it trims out so nicely, but it's WAY more gas than I can use on a dive locally, because I get cold before I get below about 1200 psi.
steveann
Contributor
Here's my 2 cents.
The LP Worhtingtons are nice looking tanks. Good buoyancy chars, good trim, nice quality. Sure, they're LP and you can't fill them up to 3500 psi (well.....we won't go there) but 85 cft of air is plenty for any dive up here in upstate NY. You'll probably find yourself getting uncomfortable before you start running out of air, especially when you start getting a bit deeper in the lakes around here (most have a thermocline around 30-50' where temp drops a good couple of degrees).
There are lots of upsides to the LP tanks. One, you can get full fills on them at any dive shop. A lot of dive shops will not give you a good fill on an HP tank, based on the extra wear on their compressor. So, your HP 100 is really a sorta-kinda-almost-HP 95, or even less. Then there's Nitrox, and the better mixing charactersitics you get from a LP tank. And finally, there's the fact that an LP 85 is a 96 at 3000 psi, which is easily attainable if you can find someone willing to fill that high (which there are more than you would think). As for durability, the painted LP tanks are just as good as the galvanized or any other treatment, fresh or salt water. You just have to make sure to keep them clean, and fix and chips in the paint. All it really takes is a hose, a towel, and some nail polish or enamel paint. That and some desire to care for your equipment. With proper care, your steel can last longer than you will dive.
The downsides to LP tanks. They're bigger than similar HP tanks. They're heavy. They cost a lot of money ($200+ for a steel, $130 for an aluminum). They require more maintenance. You have to be more careful about not draining your tank, to prevent moisture from entering. They are more expensive. Even with proper maintenance, a bad air fill can trash your tank (moisture, oils in the air). Have I mentioned they're rather expensive?
From other posts, it looks like you're building up your SCUBA gear collection. My advice would be to buy the tanks last, based on the cost to benefit ratio they provide ($10 a tank rental vice $6 per air fill= 75 dives to make up for a $300 tank). If you still need other gear, even some of the major accessories, I would probably get these first.
If you're at a point where tanks are what you're looking for, though, and you're still looking for a LP Worhtington, I know where a nice LP Worthington 85 is sitting on a good price tag. If you want some info on it, drop me a PM.
BTW, I own 4 tanks, 2 LP 85's, 2 LP 95's. All Fabers. I would have gone with Worhtingtons, though, if I hadn't gotten a real nice deal on them. And they were some of my last gear purchases. And they are nice to have up here in Adirondack Country.
The LP Worhtingtons are nice looking tanks. Good buoyancy chars, good trim, nice quality. Sure, they're LP and you can't fill them up to 3500 psi (well.....we won't go there) but 85 cft of air is plenty for any dive up here in upstate NY. You'll probably find yourself getting uncomfortable before you start running out of air, especially when you start getting a bit deeper in the lakes around here (most have a thermocline around 30-50' where temp drops a good couple of degrees).
There are lots of upsides to the LP tanks. One, you can get full fills on them at any dive shop. A lot of dive shops will not give you a good fill on an HP tank, based on the extra wear on their compressor. So, your HP 100 is really a sorta-kinda-almost-HP 95, or even less. Then there's Nitrox, and the better mixing charactersitics you get from a LP tank. And finally, there's the fact that an LP 85 is a 96 at 3000 psi, which is easily attainable if you can find someone willing to fill that high (which there are more than you would think). As for durability, the painted LP tanks are just as good as the galvanized or any other treatment, fresh or salt water. You just have to make sure to keep them clean, and fix and chips in the paint. All it really takes is a hose, a towel, and some nail polish or enamel paint. That and some desire to care for your equipment. With proper care, your steel can last longer than you will dive.
The downsides to LP tanks. They're bigger than similar HP tanks. They're heavy. They cost a lot of money ($200+ for a steel, $130 for an aluminum). They require more maintenance. You have to be more careful about not draining your tank, to prevent moisture from entering. They are more expensive. Even with proper maintenance, a bad air fill can trash your tank (moisture, oils in the air). Have I mentioned they're rather expensive?
From other posts, it looks like you're building up your SCUBA gear collection. My advice would be to buy the tanks last, based on the cost to benefit ratio they provide ($10 a tank rental vice $6 per air fill= 75 dives to make up for a $300 tank). If you still need other gear, even some of the major accessories, I would probably get these first.
If you're at a point where tanks are what you're looking for, though, and you're still looking for a LP Worhtington, I know where a nice LP Worthington 85 is sitting on a good price tag. If you want some info on it, drop me a PM.
BTW, I own 4 tanks, 2 LP 85's, 2 LP 95's. All Fabers. I would have gone with Worhtingtons, though, if I hadn't gotten a real nice deal on them. And they were some of my last gear purchases. And they are nice to have up here in Adirondack Country.
OP
scubamikey
Contributor
Once again, Scubaboard saves me money.
Thanks Kraken, for the comparisons.
Matt C., You've replied to a number of my threads and I look forward to your responses, lots of great info that has really helped.
Stevaann, thanks, always great to hear from nearby divers since you know the conditions I'll be diving in.
TSand M, everyone else-thank you also.
From your responses, I have decided to wait and try to rent different tanks the first few times, until I get a feel for what works best for me.
Thanks Kraken, for the comparisons.
Matt C., You've replied to a number of my threads and I look forward to your responses, lots of great info that has really helped.
Stevaann, thanks, always great to hear from nearby divers since you know the conditions I'll be diving in.
TSand M, everyone else-thank you also.
From your responses, I have decided to wait and try to rent different tanks the first few times, until I get a feel for what works best for me.
cummings66
Contributor
I'll add another tidbit here. Depending on the tank you rent or eventually buy you reg might be DIN. If you think you'll ever go into tech diving, or dive an HP tank buy your reg in the DIN state and save money. Now if you do have a DIN reg then I'd suggest 2 accessories, you want a yoke to DIN adaptor and also a fill adaptor for the tank. Not all scuba shops can fill a DIN tank and you might not be able to take your tank with you and so you see the need for both adaptors.
If you rent tanks and use your DIN reg, be careful that the tank supports your reg, DIN is not the same because you have 5 and 7 thread DIN and your 5 will not work on my 7.
If you rent tanks and use your DIN reg, be careful that the tank supports your reg, DIN is not the same because you have 5 and 7 thread DIN and your 5 will not work on my 7.
OP
scubamikey
Contributor
cummings66:
Thanks, just this week I heard about this line of thought and it sure makes sense to start with a DIN regulator and a yoke adapter. I may end up getting a HP tank afterall.
Is the fill adapter the part that makes the thermo valve convertable from yoke to DIN? Or do I have to hunt one down separately?
I've heard of 5 and 7 thread DIN, is one favored over the other or more common?
steveann
Contributor
Most companies make a DIN to Yoke converter, and most regs come with the option of DIN with converter when you buy them. Just ask your LDS, or go to Scubatoys.com or Leisure-Pro.com to find some nice ones.
5 and 7 thread DIN refers to 200 bar and 300 bar DIN. 300 BAR is a deeper socket for the tank valve, that way a 200 bar din will not seal in it, preventing you from overpressurizing your reg. When you're buying DIN, you want 300 BAR DIN regulators with either style DIN tank valve. This way, you can always use your reg, it just might stick out a little from the tank valve.
As for DIN regs with yoke adapters, I don't know why anyone wouldn't want this, as you can use any tank any time.
5 and 7 thread DIN refers to 200 bar and 300 bar DIN. 300 BAR is a deeper socket for the tank valve, that way a 200 bar din will not seal in it, preventing you from overpressurizing your reg. When you're buying DIN, you want 300 BAR DIN regulators with either style DIN tank valve. This way, you can always use your reg, it just might stick out a little from the tank valve.
As for DIN regs with yoke adapters, I don't know why anyone wouldn't want this, as you can use any tank any time.
I have found less difference in the bottom time between my 95 and 85 than I anticipated. The 95 is 8 inches in diameter and a bit of a heavyweight. I may use some additional air hauling the 95 around under water. I typically use 2 lb. less lead with the 95, as that is the approximate buoyancy difference empty. Both are Faber LP.
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