Who knows Apeks stuff?

[axxel57]

The design flaw is why you should always use two spanners when removing the hose. One to hold the heat exchanger and one to turn the hose fitting. When tightening the heat exchanger on do so with the diaphragm and cover off, press and hold the lever down onto the spindle to prevent it rotating as you tighten.

That's exact what I mean, if for a recommended torque for the heat exchanger of 45 inch-libs (5 Nm) I have to fix the spindle with my hand 'to prevent it rotating', this is a pretty unique design.

I don't know exact what you would have to do to make the spindle in a G250 or a Legend to rotate, but you would need a lot of force.

I know here are lots of APEKS fans in the forum and as I wrote before that I think that APEKS regulators are good regulators, but concerning this 'design aspect' I don't see any benefits for the users in comparison to similar 2nd stages. This little aspect is for me simply substandard, even if you could pretty easily avoid problems with it.

 

[Mikko Ilari Laakkonen]

There are several HOG dealers in Europe. In know personally 3 in Finland and 2 in Sweden.

- Mikko Laakkonen -

I love diving and teaching others to dive.

 

[Hickdive]

That's exact what I mean, if for a recommended torque for the heat exchanger of 45 inch-libs (5 Nm) I have to fix the spindle with my hand 'to prevent it rotating', this is a pretty unique design.

I don't know exact what you would have to do to make the spindle in a G250 or a Legend to rotate, but you would need a lot of force.

I know here are lots of APEKS fans in the forum and as I wrote before that I think that APEKS regulators are good regulators, but concerning this 'design aspect' I don't see any benefits for the users in comparison to similar 2nd stages. This little aspect is for me simply substandard, even if you could pretty easily avoid problems with it.

I'm more than happy to need to adopt a careful procedure in one element of servicing an Apeks second stage over dealing with shonky, made to the lowest possible price, continually changing, Scubapros. The only second stages in the world you need glue to service properly.

 

[axxel57]

I'm more than happy to need to adopt a careful procedure in one element of servicing an Apeks second stage over dealing with shonky, made to the lowest possible price, continually changing, Scubapros. The only second stages in the world you need glue to service properly.

Oh man, another specialist with profound knowledge in regulator technique............

 

[DepthCharge]

I'm more than happy to need to adopt a careful procedure in one element of servicing an Apeks second stage over dealing with shonky, made to the lowest possible price, continually changing, Scubapros. The only second stages in the world you need glue to service properly.

Funny........for my OC stuff it's Apeks, HOG, or Dive-Rite 1st, and Scubapro 2nd's. I find they breath the best and I find them easier to service.
Later,
John

 

[Bigd2722]

I should also point out that Apeks and Aqualung are related companies so any Aqualung dealer should be able to repair an Apeks regulator.

---------- Post added May 18th, 2014 at 01:55 PM ----------



.

The key word is should. I quit diving APEKS because I couldn't find a competent local shop.

 

[ams511]

The key word is should. I quit diving APEKS because I couldn't find a competent local shop.

Aqualung has been selling Apeks regulators since 2000 or 2001 so any AL dealer should know how to service it. If they don't then I would sincerely doubt their ability to service an Aqualung regulator.

---------- Post added May 20th, 2014 at 07:25 PM ----------

Funny........for my OC stuff it's Apeks, HOG, or Dive-Rite 1st, and Scubapro 2nd's. I find they breath the best and I find them easier to service.

What kind of glue do you use?

 

[Hickdive]

Oh man, another specialist with profound knowledge in regulator technique............

Ah, someone who doesn't service scubapros properly or have the service manuals (in their myriads) to hand. Tell me, how do YOU access the balance and anti-set mechanisms and replace the underlying o-ring on the cracking effort adjustment knob on an s600 without removing the decal or do you just remove it and forget about it (like the manuals) or perhaps you just don't do that bit of the service and wonder why you've got an o-ring left in the service kit when you're done?

 

[Tortuga68]

all of the atx/xtx models have the same internals. the higher the number, the more blingy the faceplate

The bling comment is true for the second stage, apart from from 20s and 40s which lack the predive lever and/or cracking adjustment. For the first stages, the valve seat is different on the XTX200 as someone mentioned earlier (replaceable)

The main difference between the ATX and XTX series besides price and cosmetics is: 1) The XTX can feed from either side of the regulator 2) You can swap the exhaust tees on the XTX between a wide one and a compact one.

Also the ATX have one 1/2" LP port, which does nothing except require a different hose or an adaptor. Or you can plug and ignore it.

 

[buddhasummer]

The bling comment is true for the second stage, apart from from 20s and 40s which lack the predive lever and/or cracking adjustment. For the first stages, the valve seat is different on the XTX200 as someone mentioned earlier (replaceable)




Also the ATX have one 1/2" LP port, which does nothing except require a different hose or an adaptor. Or you can plug and ignore it.

Not to nit pick, but later ATX came with all 3/8 ports. I bought an ATX/DS4 set two years ago new and all LP ports were 3/8. All currently sold Apeks, excluding ancient stock, including ATX 40s have 3/8 LP ports.