Which wetsuits for MI diving?

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Can't answer any wetsuit questions, I dive dry.

But most shops rent computers. Computers due "learn" your profile and adjust. But most rentals don't get enough dives from say one person to really affect the profile. Truthfully most people who dive alot own their own, so the profile is usally for shallow dives which then should make to computer a bit more conservative for deeper dives. Or if you would feel better, they may be able to clear the memory so it acts like it is brand new and is more conservative.

Even though I have a computer, I still plan my dive, look at my tables just so I know in the back of my mind the times I am allowed. The computer just credits you for time it takes to get to the max depht and back up. If you do a dive and make a max depht of say 60 feet. Your average depth might only be 40. Your dive table is going to say you can only stay down 60 min. But you computer is going to go "we were only at 60 feet for 7 min" then calculate how long you can stay at 40 or what ever extending your bottom time.
 
Sorry, computers don't learn anything about your profile. You can set most of them to be more conservative, but that's about it. What they do is keep track of repetitive dives for you, particularly resort diving. They are really useful when you are doing a lot of diving and you get close to your Deco Limits.

If you are just diving in the shallow side of quaries, you don't need a computer. Tables will generally give you more bottom time than you can actually use up unless you are really gung ho.

One suggestion, get friendly with the staff and instructors at your LDS. Many LDS require instructors and staff to have the latest high end gear. So the instructors are selling old (usually only a couple of years old) gear that was top of the line not that long ago. The price is usually about half what it was new.

BTW, don't scrimp on your regulators, make sure they are cold water rated. They usually charge more for them. The difference is they are much less likely to freeze up in cold water, which by the way can happen at water temperatures above 32F.
 
Okay, another question.

A lot of 7 mill suits come with hoods attached to them. Is this a good idea or not? It seems like it would be good in so far as it should help cut down water transfer. However, if you ever don't want to use a hood will wearing the 7 mill suit you cannot just take it off. Of course, how often would you wear a 7 mill suit sans hood?
 
ScubaRook:
Okay, another question.

A lot of 7 mill suits come with hoods attached to them. Is this a good idea or not? It seems like it would be good in so far as it should help cut down water transfer. However, if you ever don't want to use a hood will wearing the 7 mill suit you cannot just take it off. Of course, how often would you wear a 7 mill suit sans hood?

If you are wearing a 7mm you are going to want a hood and gloves. And the attached hood is easier to put on by yourself. A detached wetsuit hood can be hard to tuck in by yourself.
 
ScubaRook:
Okay, so it sounds like a 7 mil suit with a hood attached would be better.

Personally, I loathe hoods. I wear a 1mm neoprene beanie instead, with my 7mm full suit. Actually I just got the beanie recently - before that I just used a bandana to hold back my hair. I have not had a problem feeling cold so far, but of course all my diving has been in quarries so I may feel differently in other environments.
 
Thanks for all the help everyone. I think we decided to go with the Bare suits 7 mill Artic with the 7 mill hooded shorted vest. That should give us pretty good warmth and some flexibility for different temperatures. Also, we can get two setups for $500 total which will really help with our budget. We plan to just rent dry suits when we dive really cold <40deg. Eventually we will buy drysuits, but not until we buy the rest of our gear and can afford good suits.

Now hopefully we will get our new suits in time for the GLWC meet and greet :)
 

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