Question When to Repair Drysuit Seam

[Boarderguy]

I'll wipe each side down well at least 3 times with something called MEK

Real MEK is nasty stuff and will dissolve MANY things and allow your skin to absorb them. Regular nitrile gloves will not prevent this for anything other than brief exposure... I use this crap at work often.

The upside is that your surfaces will be cleaned of oils and residues if the MEK doesn't also eat the material.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Real MEK is nasty stuff and will dissolve MANY things and allow your skin to absorb them. Regular nitrile gloves will not prevent this for anything other than brief exposure... I use this crap at work often.

The upside is that your surfaces will be cleaned of oils and residues if the MEK doesn't also eat the material.

I can't remember where I learned it's a good solvent. It is very potent and at that time was available at my local hardware store. I used a fairly small amount on a clean rag multiple times to clean each surface. And when I say small, rag over hole and a quick flip to get the rag just a little damp. I did it in my basement and don't remember using gloves or respirator / mask but maybe I should have. I do remember it rubbing the color off of the neoprene but it dries very fast, so a quick wipe down and then I would have to re-wet the rag.

The small can that I have is probably a lifetime supply's worth of personal use.

 

[Boarderguy]

I can't remember where I learned it's a good solvent. It is very potent and at that time was available at my local hardware store. I used a fairly small amount on a clean rag multiple times to clean each surface. And when I say small, rag over hole and a quick flip to get the rag just a little damp. I did it in my basement and don't remember using gloves or respirator / mask but maybe I should have. I do remember it rubbing the color off of the neoprene but it dries very fast, so a quick wipe down and then I would have to re-wet the rag.

The small can that I have is probably a lifetime supply's worth of personal use.

I use it to dissolve conformal coatings on circuit boards, bastard adhesives that IPA or flux-off won't remove, and corrosion on boards. I've also used it to remove paint from an AL80 that I'm re-purposing to be a 100% O2 bottle. Mine lives in a chem bottle with a squeeze spout. I turn on a fan to remove fumes, wear gloves and use an acid brush for application. A rag wipe to clean it up and then allowed to evap or thrown in a rag bin.

Nasty stuff

 

[rootshell73]

I didn't see it mentioned but both surfaces have to be cleaned extremely well before trying to apply any sealant. I'll wipe each side down well at least 3 times with something called MEK. Also you can use Pilobond 25 for glue. It remains flexible even in the cold. DAP weldwood is available anywhere but gets a little stiff when it's cold. Neither is marketed as drysuit repair glue, so much less expensive.

If it's a new area (or one you've taken apart completely for whatever reason) you will want to rough it up with sandpaper and layer up either side with glue. Give it a few minutes in between each layer. DRiS has a pretty good rule of thumb for how many layers on their site depending on material (see pic). As mentioned, they also have a fantastic repair department that will answer any questions you have about DIY. If you do go DIY watch some YT videos 1st. It's really like 85% prep work and then 15% glue. DRiS will sell you a small can of glue for fairly inexpensive, but it won't cover a whole suit.

It's not hard, but does take time. Good luck!

I read about that in other threads for completely replacing seam tape. Should I still use MEK in my use case? My worry is that the MEK will further weaken/dissolve glue in the areas I’m trying to stop from peeling.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

I read about that in other threads for completely replacing seam tape. Should I still use MEK in my use case? My worry is that the MEK will further weaken/dissolve glue in the areas I’m trying to stop from peeling.

Whatever you glue needs to be cleaned. MEK is just one way. It evaporates very fast, unless you soak the suit in it there's zero chance it'll break the suit down. It won't dissolve the glue, it'll just clean the surface so new glue can stick to it. You're not soaking, you're wiping off dirt / oil / etc and then the MEK evaporates.

Make sense?

 

[Still Kicking]

It also helps to roughen the surface with 80 grit, to give the glue something to grab. Then clean off the dust etc. with solvent (I use toluene).

None of this helped with E6000. That stuff is cr*p in my opinion.

 

[Boarderguy]

It won't dissolve the glue,

It can, and it will, unless you use very sparingly. MEK is used to activate certain adhesives as well. Put a layer on, let it dry. Put a layer on something else, let it dry. Wet both items with MEK and stick together, magically they become one...

Should I still use MEK in my use case? My worry is that the MEK will further weaken/dissolve glue in the areas I’m trying to stop from peeling.

Use it on that area but don't use a lot. Get an acid brush to apply if and have a towel to wipe up anything that tries to pool. It can help the new and old glue to work together in that area once it's cleaned up properly.


MEK will 100% disolve materials if left on too long. I put a piece of ABS in a jar of MEK and it was fully dissolved in 20 minutes. It's nasty stuff.

 

[Bald Wookie]

If you can't find MEK in your area, a toluene based lacquer/thinner works well to clean surfaces. If the DRiS glue is the same stuff as sold in most SCUBA stores, its a toluene based glue so if you ever stick something down incorrectly, a dab of the thinner on the end of a clean brush onto wherever your mistake is can loosen the glue, then you can stick it down again.

+1 for cleaning up the area and prep. I use a dremel to tidy old glue and roughen surfaces, then Lacquer/thinner on a rag/towel to clean it all, then glue.

Don't use the brush that comes attached to the can if you get the DRiS glue, go to an autoshop and you can get metal handled brushes for like 50c ea, trim down the bristles to 3/4" and clamp them down hard so they dont come out on the area you are gluing. Then keep them in a glass jar with a little bit of lacquer and they can be used almost indefinitely.

This is what I use.

 

[TrimixToo]

You can also have repairs made in the US (e.g., DRIS). Quite useful if the manufacturer warranty is no longer in effect.

Another honorable mention for DRIS. I had DUI put in a zipper in one suit and DRIS for another. The workmanship was indistinguishable between the two, but (without the previous key person discount) DRIS was a lot less expensive.