Whats the best way to add weight to a maxed out integrated BCD?

[Eric Sedletzky]

If you want to reduce drag then get rid of the back unflate or jacket BC right off the bat (whatever the Stiletto is). Those things are like sails in the wind when it comes to drag.
I would seriously look at getting someone to custom cut you a plate out of 1/4” or even 3/8” stainless.
It could be totally flat with out a channel and just slots for webbing and can bands. You could put a wing on it if you wanted but kind of moot being that you are grossly overweighted (on purpose). The wing would have to be so big that you be right back to the drag problem and having rushing water grabbing It and taking you with it. Since you crawl around on the bottom and crawl up the bank anyway, a wing would be pointless.
I think the back pack divers had it right for the kind of work you guys are doing.
I’d also use the heaviest steel tank I could find on the heaviest steel plate and put the rest on a belt.

I have a 1/2” two piece urchin harvesting suit that takes about 50 total lbs. to make neutral, so I break it up with steel tank, steel plate and got the weightbelt down to about 34 lbs. but I’m weighted neutral not heavy.

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

I recommend that you consider an elastic rubber weight belt. This type of belt can easily be ditched in an emergency .. AND you can wear it low on your hips. This will place the belt lower than the cummerbund or waist strap of the BC.

The elasticity of the belt should keep it from falling down (off your butt) or spinning around. You can continue to load up the BC with lead and a 20 lb belt should be no trouble for a big guy like yourself.

Even if you are not diving deep, you should be diving a rig that will allow you to ditch enough lead to easily swim to the surface - even with a failed BC. For relatively shallow water, dropping a 20 lb belt might make you close to neutral.

Freedive Weight Belt | MAKO Spearguns

 

[BRT]

Since we seem to be getting sidetracked on amount of weight, i will address the issue. Yes, for a normal scuba diving situation, its overkill. However, for what im doing in the river, its correct. Everyone I know uses these kinds of weights around here. The goal is to sink to the bottom, have enough weight that the current doesnt push you, and pull yourself along the bottom (not swim) and then crawl/climb back up the bank. I have never even inflated my BCD while river diving! Even in the local lake i use a 40lb weight belt due to the size of my wetsuit. So 55lbs isnt a crazy number.
The guys I go with dont have BCDs with integrated weights. (it wasnt long ago that they were wearing regular backpacks and not even a BCD lol) But i have since purchased a back inflator in an attempt to reduce drag and incorporate some of my weights thus lessening the size of my weight belt. So back to the original question, can i use this Zeagle with a weight belt?
Since 3 of us all share about 15 Aluminum tanks on the boat, i want to just figure out a way to make those work, however, the use of steel tanks is a great idea! Im trying to come up with a way to make what i have work. Thank you all for your imput and ideas!

Get a DUI weight harness. Gives you a secure place to put a lot of weight that is still ditchable if you need to. You can adjust it up and down for trim. If you ever have to take off your bcd a lot of your weight will still be with you.

 

[doctormike]

Ha Ha! I have actually thought about that before! Unfortunately it wouldn't work. The hose would have too much drag and would rip the regulator out of your mouth or pull you downstream. The current can be so strong that in some places, if you look to the side, your mask will be ripped off. So you can see why im trying to lessen my profile with the new BCD.

I'm interested in this, since you seem to be adapting a very non-standard gear configuration to a specific task. Is this a commercial diving operation? What sort of work are you guys doing with your 15 AL 80s...?

 

[Tassi Devil Diver]

Put the weight on a weight belt and keep the minimum amount needed integrated into your BCD.

 

[tursiops]

since you aren't actually scuba diving, just walking on the bottom, get a DUI weight harness.

I don't understand. The weight harness works fine for scuba diving.

 

[Swimbait]

If you want to reduce drag then get rid of the back unflate or jacket BC right off the bat (whatever the Stiletto is). Those things are like sails in the wind when it comes to drag.
I would seriously look at getting someone to custom cut you a plate out of 1/4” or even 3/8” stainless.
It could be totally flat with out a channel and just slots for webbing and can bands. You could put a wing on it if you wanted but kind of moot being that you are grossly overweighted (on purpose). The wing would have to be so big that you be right back to the drag problem and having rushing water grabbing It and taking you with it. Since you crawl around on the bottom and crawl up the bank anyway, a wing would be pointless.
I think the back pack divers had it right for the kind of work you guys are doing.
I’d also use the heaviest steel tank I could find on the heaviest steel plate and put the rest on a belt.

I have a 1/2” two piece urchin harvesting suit that takes about 50 total lbs. to make neutral, so I break it up with steel tank, steel plate and got the weightbelt down to about 34 lbs. but I’m weighted neutral not heavy.

Thanks Eric, those are some good ideas. I only have the BCD in the event of an emergency (i could inflate it), but if i went to just the back plate and dumped my weight belt, i would be pretty close to neutral (might be sketchy). Since im only diving in 3'-40', its not to bad, but with the current, you can be a ways down river before you make it up. Since a lot of people have brought of the steel tank, i have a question about that. While im diving or crawling my way back up the rocky bank, my tank is banging into rocks. If i lose my grip and get swept down river, its often my tank that hits something first. Would that cause the paint to chip and cause corrosion issues with a steel tank? Our AL tanks have a lot of missing paint. Is this a valid concern?

 

[Swimbait]

I recommend that you consider an elastic rubber weight belt. This type of belt can easily be ditched in an emergency .. AND you can wear it low on your hips. This will place the belt lower than the cummerbund or waist strap of the BC.

The elasticity of the belt should keep it from falling down (off your butt) or spinning around. You can continue to load up the BC with lead and a 20 lb belt should be no trouble for a big guy like yourself.

Even if you are not diving deep, you should be diving a rig that will allow you to ditch enough lead to easily swim to the surface - even with a failed BC. For relatively shallow water, dropping a 20 lb belt might make you close to neutral.

Freedive Weight Belt | MAKO Spearguns

Thanks Mako, i will look into that! Yes, i have had the nylon (60lbs) weight belt come off before if its not on super tight! Its pretty sketchy. I cant use my legs because the weight belt is around my knees and i cant pull it up because i cant let go of the rock im hanging on to! haha. Last time it happened, my dive buddy helped me and showed me how its done. Go to the bottom of the river, lay face down in the gravels/rocks, dig your fins in and unbuckle/pull it up.
I dont like the 60lb weight belt, which is why i went to this integrated BCD. so if i have a rubber belt that has less weights and rides a little lower (and doesnt fall off), you might be on to something. Even if the BCD failed, i would have about 44 lbs of ditchable weights, would would make me float.

 

[Swimbait]

I'm interested in this, since you seem to be adapting a very non-standard gear configuration to a specific task. Is this a commercial diving operation? What sort of work are you guys doing with your 15 AL 80s...?

Mike, yes, i guess you could say its commercial. We are sniping for gold. Im the new guy on the boat and they already had the AL tanks. Im assuming they use those because they are common, easy to find used, and arent going to corrode after getting all scratched up. They have been doing this for 30 years and im just trying to find a better/safer way of doing things. Its different and more challenging for me as a really big guy!

 

[MAKO Spearguns]

60 lbs on a normal belt is a problem and could be dangerous as you seem to have found out. Distribution of ballast between the tank and bc and weight belt seems like the most comfortable and safe solution.
60 lbs hanging from one point on your spine while you are horizontal sounds very stressful.. if not abusive to your back. You can hang fixed weights from the tank neck, tank strap, and ditchable weight pockets and then supplement with a reasonable rubber belt will be much more stable and comfortable. For work in strong currents and heavily weighted, you probably want a head down trim, you don't want your head to be light and then you have to fight to keep the head down and prevent current from hitting on the front of chest and tipping you up and trying to flip you over on your back.

That much lead (if you really need it) should be distributed safely