Wetsuit Alteration At Back Zipper?

[Marek K]

With a tight scuba budget, we just mail-ordered a ScubaMax 3/2mm back-zip wetsuit for my wife. Nice suit, expecially for the price; fits fine in the bust and hips, but it's way too loose in the waist. Sounds strange; it's size 10, she's got a 27" (69 cm) waist, and it looks like it's 3 to 4 inches (7.5 - 10 cm) too large in the waist.

She thinks it's fine; says that with a BC and weight belt on, any waist looseness will be taken care of. I'm not so sure.

So first question... for warm-water diving (~80F), would there be a problem? She does get cold easily.

Second... if it's better to have a better-fitting waist, should we fool around with having it altered around the sides? A specialty wetsuit repair place would have to do that, since we'd be dealing with gluing and blind-stitching; and I've had a good repair shop recommended here in Poland (thanks, Mania!) -- but I'd have to send it out.

Alternately, could we just have it altered at the back zipper, by a plain-old clothing alteration shop? The zipper is just sewn in with a heavy-duty zig-zag stitch. I suppose this would entail taking the zipper out, slicing a max 2" crescent out of each side at the back where the zipper is, and having the zipper sewn back in. This would obviously leave a 3-4" crescent-shaped gap before the zipper is zipped; that is, the suit maybe wouldn't "drape" naturally. But I think the 3mm neoprene would stretch well when zipped, and not cause too many strange wrinkles... any thoughts?

--Marek

 

[spectrum]

As you know a close fit is always best. Sounds like she has a good fit at the openings and on the limbs, that's good news. I'm going to guess that in 80 degree water ( a temperature that will remain in my dreams until we get to do some dive travel) it's not that big of a deal. What you're dealing with is minimizing water volume that can slosh and exchange her gear may very well do a lot to close that space. Has she had it in the water? She may fill it our differently when it's in use.

If it's problem then you can always deal with it after a few dives. Pinching and marking the suit and sending it out for this shouldn't be a big deal, we've done this for my wifes. Removing the material where it's bunched would be better than pulling it to the back but try pinching it that way and if it flows then you can go that route.

Is the 3mm blind stitched? Often it is not.

Pete

With a tight scuba budget, we just mail-ordered a ScubaMax 3/2mm back-zip wetsuit for my wife. Nice suit, expecially for the price; fits fine in the bust and hips, but it's way too loose in the waist. Sounds strange; it's size 10, she's got a 27" (69 cm) waist, and it looks like it's 3 to 4 inches (7.5 - 10 cm) too large in the waist.

She thinks it's fine; says that with a BC and weight belt on, any waist looseness will be taken care of. I'm not so sure.

So first question... for warm-water diving (~80F), would there be a problem? She does get cold easily.

Second... if it's better to have a better-fitting waist, should we fool around with having it altered around the sides? A specialty wetsuit repair place would have to do that, since we'd be dealing with gluing and blind-stitching; and I've had a good repair shop recommended here in Poland (thanks, Mania!) -- but I'd have to send it out.

Alternately, could we just have it altered at the back zipper, by a plain-old clothing alteration shop? The zipper is just sewn in with a heavy-duty zig-zag stitch. I suppose this would entail taking the zipper out, slicing a max 2" crescent out of each side at the back where the zipper is, and having the zipper sewn back in. This would obviously leave a 3-4" crescent-shaped gap before the zipper is zipped; that is, the suit maybe wouldn't "drape" naturally. But I think the 3mm neoprene would stretch well when zipped, and not cause too many strange wrinkles... any thoughts?

--Marek

 

[Marek K]

Pinching and marking the suit and sending it out for this shouldn't be a big deal, we've done this for my wifes.

Hi Pete--

Um, how many wifes do you have?? :11:

Oh... never mind.

Is the 3mm blind stitched? Often it is not.

You mean since 3mm may be too thin to blind-stitch, and the thermal issues aren't that critical? Hmmm... maybe... not sure how I'd determine that. It'd still have to be glued, though, and it seems like it would take a specialist. Besides, I'm not sure how strong that would be, compared to a plain heavy-duty zig-zag stitch along the zipper.

She'll be trying it in the pool a couple times... that might be a good way to check it out without any alterations; though the pool water (82F) is a bit warmer than the Red Sea.

Thanks for the insights.

--Marek

 

[spectrum]

Hi Pete--

Um, how many wifes do you have?? :11:

Not enough to fill all the wetsuits.

You mean since 3mm may be too thin to blind-stitch, and the thermal issues aren't that critical? Hmmm... maybe... not sure how I'd determine that. It'd still have to be glued, though, and it seems like it would take a specialist. Besides, I'm not sure how strong that would be, compared to a plain heavy-duty zig-zag stitch along the zipper.

Here's a link that talks about construction details:
http://www.croyde-surf-cam.com/onlinesurfschool/wetsuits.htm

The gluing is a lot like contact cement, prepare clean edges, coat let dry coat let dry, maybe even a third coat then marry the edges together, you only get 1 chance. If you're comfortable doing that sort of close work then you can consider it if you are a DIY sort of person. I have not done it yet myself.

She'll be trying it in the pool a couple times... that might be a good way to check it out without any alterations; though the pool water (82F) is a bit warmer than the Red Sea.

Thanks for the insights.

--Marek

 

[DA Aquamaster]

Sending the suit out for alterations will fairly quickly be equal to the cost of an affordable suit like a Scubamax. Doing it yourself is actually a pretty viable option.

It works better to alter the suit along the seams on the side than it is to do the alteration at the zipper. Depending on how it is made you will either have a single seam on the side or a side panel and 2 seams on each side.

With a single seam you can trim a crescent out of each side an then glue them together with neoprene cement. This is actually easier than it sounds as neoprene cement works just like contact cement. You can then neatly and fairly quickly hand stitch the inside and outside fabric with a curved needle. For extra security you can also tape the inside seam with nylon tape or even 3/4" or 1" nylon ribbon from a fabric store and clear neoprene cement. This is a good idea on a 2 or 3mm suit as it ensures the inner layer of nylon or lycra will fully carry the loads on the seam.

If it has a side panel, you can trim equal lenght crescents out of each side of the side panel and adjacent portions of the suit.

You have to be careful either way to ensure the lenght of each edge is equal so that they will fit together with no bulges, wrinkles or left over material. It is a good idea to draw the cut lines first with a fabric pencil. A bit of careful measuring and adjustment of the lenght of the lines for the proposed cuts is then a very good idea. You can also put the suit on and then pinch the lines together to make sure the amount or material removed is correct. Measuring twice and cutting once is always a good idea.

 

[spectrum]

Once you get a rough plot of the crescent you need to take out fold a sheet of light cardboard like a manilla folder and draw 1/2 of the shape along the fold. Cut the patern and unfold it. You will have a perfectly symetrical template that you should be able to use for both sides of the suit, assuming symetry of the suit and your wife. :11:

A sharpie marker works pretty good on suits. If there are dark colors try the silver sharpie. When you're done rubbing alchohol will remove any extra marks.

Pete

 

[Marek K]

Sending the suit out for alterations will fairly quickly be equal to the cost of an affordable suit like a Scubamax.

Makes sense, except that I'm in Poland. Goods (like scuba equipment) are expensive here -- unless you have a U.S. address, like me! But services are very inexpensive.

It works better to alter the suit along the seams on the side than it is to do the alteration at the zipper. Depending on how it is made you will either have a single seam on the side or a side panel and 2 seams on each side.

The suit has blue panels. That would mean -- to do it absolutely right -- that two seams would have to be re-done on each side. Even assuming the stitching wouldn't have to be blind -- or even couldn't be, because of the thin material -- I don't think we're ready to attempt something like DIY seam work. Good points, from you and from Pete/Spectrum, about making sure the edges match up!! And using a nylon tape on the inside of the seam.

Wife tried the wetsuit out at the pool last night... I wasn't there. She said it seemed fine in the waist with BC and weight belt. But she mentioned something about bunching up at the hips -- I assume after it got wet; maybe while she was sitting down. I'll have to ask her when I get home tonight. Wonder whether my original back-zipper idea would tighten things up at the hips too -- if the material is stretchy enough? Hey, apparently works with a face-lift!! Or is that "stretching it"?

May have to do some equivalent of "pinning it up" to see how things would drape.

Or just take it to a clothing alteration shop.

--Marek

 

[cagemaker]

Makes sense, except that I'm in Poland. Goods (like scuba equipment) are expensive here -- unless you have a U.S. address, like me! But services are very inexpensive.

The suit has blue panels. That would mean -- to do it absolutely right -- that two seams would have to be re-done on each side. Even assuming the stitching wouldn't have to be blind -- or even couldn't be, because of the thin material -- I don't think we're ready to attempt something like DIY seam work. Good points, from you and from Pete/Spectrum, about making sure the edges match up!! And using a nylon tape on the inside of the seam.

Wife tried the wetsuit out at the pool last night... I wasn't there. She said it seemed fine in the waist with BC and weight belt. But she mentioned something about bunching up at the hips -- I assume after it got wet; maybe while she was sitting down. I'll have to ask her when I get home tonight. Wonder whether my original back-zipper idea would tighten things up at the hips too -- if the material is stretchy enough? Hey, apparently works with a face-lift!! Or is that "stretching it"?

May have to do some equivalent of "pinning it up" to see how things would drape.

Or just take it to a clothing alteration shop.

--Marek

I know it is scary cutting into a new and expensive (anything) wetsuit. However, even if you are not a handy DIV person, this is a very simple thing to do. The first time I altered neoprene wetsuits I was 15 in 1966.

1. The "darts" you want to make at the hips do not need to be curved or crescent. A staight sided "diamond" will work just fine. Everything will stretch to fit. As you mentioned about "pinning it up ", the material you bunch up is what needs to go. It would be preferable if the sides of the each V (<>) are the same length so they match up when glueing. Because the neoprene stretches, this is not critical. Close is good enough. Mark where you want to cut and remove the wetsuit.

2. Cutting can be done with blade or scissors. Once cut, insert some cardboard to back up the gluing operation so drips do not fall on the the inside of the suit. Glue one set of 2 edges (V) at a time. As mentioned earlier in other posts, apply wetsuit glue to each edge and let dry. Apply a second coat and let dry. Start at the crotch of the V and bring the edges together. After about an inch, you will be experienced and can make adjustments so the lengths come out even. Glue the other half of the diamond to complete the job on side one.

3. I do not believe that you will need to reinforce the seam at this location. If you feel it should be done, instead of taping, you can apply a small bead of "AquaSeal" to the inside. Turn the suit inside out and apply.The edges of this glue can be smoothed with a stick or finger to make uniform width bead. Let dry overnight.

If you can get a scrap of neoprene to try out the techique that will give you confidence.

Cagemaker

 

[cagemaker]

An auto upholstery shop is better for this type of work than a seamstress. DO NOT mess with the zipper.

Cagemaker

 

[oxyhacker]

We've had great results using Melco tape instead of blindstitching - it's a heat sealed nylon tape with iron-on adhesive, available from Si Tech in Europe and Wilderness Fabrics in the USA. You glue the neoprene as usual, then iron on the Melco, and you have a strong, professional looking joint, without sewing.

Most of the joint strength in a neoprene suit is from the cementing, not the sewing - the sewing is there as much to trim the edges so they won't peel, as to hold the neoprene together. That being the case, you can, when sewing or Melco isn't available, also do an adequate job of reinforcing and trimming the joint by painting on a bead of Aquaseal/Aquasure thinned 50/50 with Cotol or toluol.

The nice thing about messing with wetsuit fit is that since glue is cheap and the joints are butt cemented rather than overlapped, you can keep making tiny incremental cuts, and trying on the fit, until you get it right, then finish off the seam with tape, sewing or sealant.