Weakling needs tips for torque

[Quero]

I bought it recently, but I'll take it along to the big SP workshop here and ask them to check the calibration. Good idea.
They're in the middle of a big Poseidon seminar, so it's going to be hard to get time with the experts there for the next few days.

 

[Zung]

SP recommends a range of values: [275-325] in.-lbs, or roughly 300 in.-lbs +/- 10%, so I wouldn't worry too much about the calibration.

If you really want to get fancy, you can calibrate it yourself with a few bottles of water.

 

[Quero]

Thanks for that, Zung. What do I need the workshop experts for when I've got ScubaBoard?
BTW, where in Geneva do you live? I lived in Collonge Bellerive for a number of years. And I miss it.

 

[Couv]

......snip.... Now I just have to get my hands on a reg box......I'll have to buy it and get it shipped.

Now is the time for some serious eye batting. Print a copy of the attachment and have your local handy man make one. A 6 pack or batch of cookies goes a long way. Don't feel bad if you have to resort to this, I cannot hang a picture straight.

The reason to use a torque wrench is to prevent the over or under torque of a piece of hardware. From your smiling avatar I see that you are indeed a petit lady; however when one pushes on a lever (wrench in this case) a lot more force is applied than is readily apparent. Imagine jumping on a scale and watching the dial go way over your actual weight-the same principle applies to suddenly jerking the end of a wrench; this is why it is suggested to pull rather than push on the handle. If you're using a "click" type torque wrench, it's very easy to go over torque while pushing on it.

I don't want to go off on a tangent here, (here is where I go off on a tangent.) I often see advice "USE A TORQUE WRENCH" but it makes me wonder how many people actually know how to properly use and care for one. I'm using the terms "you, your, etc." in the general sense, not anyone specific. Is your torque wrench calibrated? Are you using an extension at an angle that changes the applied force relative to the dial setting? Are you careful not to drop or bang the wrench knocking it out of calibration? After using it, have you returned it to its lowest setting (not always zero)? Did you remember to "break it over" once after setting it but before torqueing the first item? Have you selected a wrench appropriate for the task, i.e. the torque you want to apply fall near the middle of the tools range.

OK, back to reality now. The important thing here is not to over torque the yoke retainer. If you under torque it, it may loosen and a leak develop, but nothing serious. Fittings that are o-ring sealed do not need to be gorilla tight as the seal is made by the o-ring. The turret retainer is another issue. If you over or under torque it a true disaster can occur. Over torqued can weaken the bolt causing a shear; under torqued and it can come loose.

Bottom line is take your time, read and follow the instructions. (Do as I say, not as I do.)

Couv

 

[iztok]

Do you have some measurements for the box?

 

[Quero]

Now is the time for some serious eye batting. Print a copy of the attachment and have your local handy man make one. A 6 pack or batch of cookies goes a long way. Don't feel bad if you have to resort to this, I cannot hang a picture straight.

I know somebody who can probably do this for me. It won't cost cookies though (I've got no oven anyway) or even a six pack, but I do hire this guy to do stuff on my property. I'd need dimensions, though, if you own one of these boxes--preferably in metric measures. I think internal and external measurements. It would be easier to just buy one!

The reason we use a torque wrench is not to over or under torque a piece of hardware. From your smiling avatar I see that you are indeed a petit lady;

Not petite, but not strong. I've got bad shoulders and my upper body strength sucks (you should NOT see me trying to lift myself into a RIB after a dive--not a pretty sight)

...however when one pushes on a lever (wrench in this case) a lot more force is applied than is readily apparent. Imagine jumping on a scare and watching the dial go way over your actual weight-the same principle applies to suddenly jerking the end of a wrench;

Me jumping on a scale truly is scary.

this is why it is suggested you pull rather than push on the handle.

No sudden jerking going on;. I haven't tried stomping on the wrench handle, for example! I am only able to make it "click" by exerting a downward pressure on it.

If you're using a "click" type torque wrench, it's very easy to go over torque pushing on it.

This is where that "you" doesn't refer to "me." It's not easy for me to even reach the torque pressure let alone surpass it.

I don't want to go off on a tangent here, (here is where I go off on a tangent.) I often see advice "USE A TORQUE WRENCH" but it makes me wonder how many people actually know how to properly use and care for one. I'm using the terms "you, your, etc." in the general sense, not anyone specific. Is your torque wrench calibrated?

As I mentioned earlier, it's pretty new and hasn't had a lot of use, so I don't imagine that it needs recalibration already.

Are you using an extension at an angle that changes the applied force relative to the dial setting?

No.

Are you careful not to drop or bang the wrench knocking it out of calibration?

Yes.

After using it, have you returned it to its lowest setting (not always zero)?

Yes.

Did you remember to "break it over" once after setting it but before torqueing the first item?

I have no idea what this means.

Have you selected a wrench appropriate for the task, i.e. the torque you want to apply fall near the middle of the tools range.

Yes.

OK, back to reality now. The important thing here is not to over torque the yoke retainer. If you under torque it, it may loosen and a leak develop, but nothing serious. Fittings that are o-ring sealed do not need to be gorilla tight as the seal is made by the o-ring. The turret retainer is another issue. If you over or under torque it a true disaster can occur. Over torqued can weaken the bolt causing a shear; under torqued and it can come loose.

Bottom line is take your time, read and follow the instructions. (Do as I say, not as I do.)

Haha.

Couv

Q.

 

[Couv]

Do you have some measurements for the box?

C'mon man! Draw a rectangle around your first stage. The dimensions should be just slightly larger than the regulator's body. The object is NOT to have a tight fit as the sides of the box will prevent the reg from rotating after the body makes contact with the walls. The side walls should be low enough to facilitate the use of a wrench. Better yet, fold a piece of cardboard into the shape you need, take it to your handyman and ask for a simple wooden box approximately the same size with 3/4-1 inch thick walls.

 

[Six2Life]

I guess I'll throw out my improvised method for dealing with the yoke nut.

The boot method should work great, but I can't use it since I don't have a lick of carpet in my house. Instead I use a very large (24" maybe?) adjustable wrench with about 4 layers of old T-shirt for padding. Wrap the reg body in the cloth and then put it in the wrench jaws. Sitting down with the wrench flat in your lap the jaws should be clamping the body from the bottom end with the turret facing away from the jaws and yoke facing up. Squeeze the jaws together from the outside while tightening the adjuster. This should hold the reg body good and tight without being tight enough to damage the finish. If you are trying to break the nut loose place the adjustable wrench handle on your left side, and pull the breaker bar/ratchet handle toward you which should also be pointing to the left. To tighten the yoke nut the procedure is the same except everything is on your right. It helps if you hold the jaws and reg in your free hand to help steady the pivot point.

I've used this on MK5's and 10's.

 

[Zung]

... BTW, where in Geneva do you live? I lived in Collonge Bellerive for a number of years. And I miss it.

Wow, Collonge Bellerive! I can understand you miss it: it's a high class neighbourhood for celebrities such as Lord Byron, the Aga Khan and other oil chek's. Me I live in a quiet suburb called Carouge.

 

[herman]

C'mon man! Draw a rectangle around your first stage. The dimensions should be just slightly larger than the regulator's body. The object is NOT to have a tight fit as the sides of the box will prevent the reg from rotating after the body makes contact with the walls. The side walls should be low enough to facilitate the use of a wrench. Better yet, fold a piece of cardboard into the shape you need, take it to your handyman and ask for a simple wooden box approximately the same size with 3/4-1 inch thick walls.

Preferably out of oak or other hard wood. Soft woods like pine are not well suited for the job. Old pallets are often times made of oak so they can be a source of otherwise expensive oak boards.