Vintage dive lights

[AfterDark]

Hi, I picked up a dive bright 500 at Good Will for $5.00 and it has been sitting on a shelf on my porch as a dispay item. Back when I was in college it was my dream light. I have a couple of questions about it that you gents might be able to help me with. At the back of the lamp there is a part missing that would screw in. My guess has been that it was either a port for recharging a bank of NiCad or an external power cable for continious use. Any ideas on that? I have not seen any pics that show this part, surprisingly. Also it there any way to tell in the switch works other than forking over for 10 D-cells?

Another thought would be to covert it to a LED. are there any reasonable ways to do that for a realistic amount? This is very boss looking lamp and would go well with my more retro dive gear.

A final question is about my Ikelite Mini "c" that I bought in the early '80s. The housing is in great condition, but the copper contacts are shot. Any suggestions on where I might get parts? Ikelite has the parts list and drawings, but they don't do retail and I don'tr even know if they make lights anymore.View attachment 132117View attachment 132118View attachment 132119

Here are some pics of the Dive Bright. It looks like it never got wet inside.

The port in the rear is for recharging. I think a couple of posts ago someone posted a LED bulb that just screwed in, $5.00 + shipping or maybe an auto parts store?

 

[regulator bj]

Hello CT.Rich , The ikelite mini C still come up on that well known auction site from time to time is this the unit you seek

 

[CT-Rich]

Hello CT.Rich , The ikelite mini C still come up on that well known auction site from time to time is this the unit you seekView attachment 132445View attachment 132446

Yeah, except mine is a classic yellow. I think it woul work if I was able to replace the metal in the bulb mount, it has degraded to pieces. otherwise it looks functional. Any ideas on where to get parts?

As to my Allen lamp, I stuck some batteries in it and other that a broken solder, it lights up fine. I think I can buy pvc/nylon or metal cap for the end at Home Depot. But the switch seems to be a problem... my understanding is that there is a slider with a magnet that trips the light on and off through the wall. the switch is encased in a rivetted cover and it looks like there it clear tube with a the actual switching mechanism built in. Am I right about that or does it work some other way? Currently, it appears the switch is trapped in the "on". Can this be fixed? are there any schematics floating around the internet for this light that I could reference?

 

[Luis H]

Yeah, except mine is a classic yellow. I think it woul work if I was able to replace the metal in the bulb mount, it has degraded to pieces. otherwise it looks functional. Any ideas on where to get parts?

I have two of them that I have own for more than 35 years.

At different times I have sent both of them back to Ikelite and they have replaced all the contacts with nickel plated contacts that work great.
It has been a while since I have sent them, but if I recall correctly they never charge me for either. In one of them I think they also replaced the lens.

I would contact Ikelite.



Both of mine are clear housing with red screw up ring. I also got two more identical ones, just a few years back. My new ones are also clear, but with black screw up ring.

 

[dumpsterDiver]

Yeah, except mine is a classic yellow. I think it woul work if I was able to replace the metal in the bulb mount, it has degraded to pieces. otherwise it looks functional. Any ideas on where to get parts?

As to my Allen lamp, I stuck some batteries in it and other that a broken solder, it lights up fine. I think I can buy pvc/nylon or metal cap for the end at Home Depot. But the switch seems to be a problem... my understanding is that there is a slider with a magnet that trips the light on and off through the wall. the switch is encased in a rivetted cover and it looks like there it clear tube with a the actual switching mechanism built in. Am I right about that or does it work some other way? Currently, it appears the switch is trapped in the "on". Can this be fixed? are there any schematics floating around the internet for this light that I could reference?

The switch works by activating a magnetic reed switch on the inside of the housing in the clear plastic hemispeherical tube.. if i remmeber correctly. i remember replacing that switch with a part from radio shack a long time ago.

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Also, if you begin to really use that light in saltwater.. it is best to take paint stripper and remove all the paint from the front of the light. It typically will begin to blister and bubble as corrosion progresses under the paint. When this occurs, water will seep under the paint (and thus under the o-ring) into the light. A slow, maddedning weeping leak... if you remove all the paint keep it rinsed and silicone grease on the O-Ring grooves and maybe clean it up with a brillo pad once a year, it will be fine ...it would be a cool light with an LEd module..

I still got a mini-c light in the garage that works i think LOL

 

[regulator bj]

Does any one own one of these, its marketed by "Poseidon" be good to see some fotos how the bulbs are fixed into the lens area

 

[Mike Lev]

There was one for sale on ebay a ways back. I think the guy from VSS was selling it. I think he was asking $50.

 

[regulator bj]

Can anyone put a name or the market brand to this lantern?0r is it just a home build

 

[Mike Lev]

It's made by Nemrod. I have one just like it. New England Divers sold them also.They came in orange or white as far as I know. 1960's.

 

[regulator bj]

Thanks mike, After posting found this Nemrod add