• Welcome to ScubaBoard


  1. Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

    Benefits of registering include

    • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
    • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
    • You can make this box go away

    Joining is quick and easy. Login or Register now by clicking on the button

Valve leaking around DIN to Yoke Insert plug

Discussion in 'Tanks, Valves and Bands' started by archman, Mar 10, 2019.

  1. archman

    archman Marine Scientist

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Florida
    4,984
    59
    48
    I had a new K-valve installed a few years ago. During my latest visual inspection, the shop technician mentioned that the K-valve was of a type that I was unfamiliar with. The K-Valve is actually DIN (not yoke although it was sold as a yoke) but with a little screw-in insert. The insert turns the DIN valve into a yoke valve.

    Okay, so I'm kind of pissed that I was sold a DIN valve without being told that it was a DIN valve, but hey, I went a couple years using it just fine with its yoke converter thingie.

    So back to the most recent visual inspection. Not only does the shop technician tell me that my yoke valve is actually a DIN valve, but I've been needing to "regularly unscrew and rinse" the inserter adapter after every few dives. The tech said that my insert was heavily corroded and it took a lot of work to remove to complete the inspection.

    So, I'm getting more pissed. I have a tank valve that is of a type I didn't ask for, and now I'm told that the thing requires regular extra maintenance (that also was not mentioned when the valve was purchased). I ask the technician if I can get a normal K-valve, but am told that this DIN with the insert is "just as good" but needs special maintenance. So that statement is contradictory. I ask the technician how I'm supposed to maintain this yoke inserter ring. The tech says that I need a special tool. I ask for the tool. The tech says that they don't carry it in the store. I ask what it is so I can buy it online. The tech says that she doesn't know how to identify the tool. I have to come to scubaboard and search to figure out that it's a weird Allen wrench.

    So, the technician says that she had a hell of a time getting the yoke insert thing unscrewed (because of all the corrosion that I was supposed to be taking care of the last few years). But eventually after much cussing and swearing in the back of the shop she tells me that she managed to get the insert out. Okay.

    Fast forward. The tank has been in storage for a few months. It has a full fill of nitrox. I'm checking it this week and lo and behold, I can't get my pressure checker to seat on the valve. I reposition several times. The valve is leaking around this yoke insert thing. I unscrew it (with the special Allen wrench I had to buy), inspect, screw back in, and try to seat the pressure checker again. Still leaking at the valve. I pull out my 1st stage regulator and try to get a seat seal with that. Same problem. There is a pretty good leak coming out of the valve.

    So I'm incredibly pissed now. I don't know if the tech stripped or damaged my valve when she was forcibly manhandling it for the last visual inspection. There's little information about these DIN to Yoke insert things so I can't tell if it needs O-rings or not (there isn't one in mine should there be one?). The valves *appears* normal, but the thing is leaking like a sieve. The insert is not screwed in super tight, just hand tight. I don't know what's wrong with this thing.

    Any feedback or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Diving Dubai

    Diving Dubai Instructor, Scuba

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Dubai UAE
    2,778
    2,326
    113
    There should be an O ring on both sides of the insert. On the front face for yoke connectors, and on the rear face to make the seal - as it does a Din connector.
     
  3. guruboy

    guruboy Divemaster ScubaBoard Supporter

    4,529
    706
    113
    The tool to remove the insert is nothing special. Just a hex key. I’m surprised the tech didn’t know what it was called.
     
  4. archman

    archman Marine Scientist

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Florida
    4,984
    59
    48
    Well... crud. So this thing needs extra parts. There definitely is not an inner O-ring on the insert. So I guess I need one of those. Hell and death. Do you know what type of O-ring I need for that, and if it matters if the tank is O2 cleaned and for nitrox? Do I need to grease the inner O-ring with anything?
     
  5. JackD342

    JackD342 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Highland Park, IL
    1,512
    725
    113
    Also make sure the insert isn’t in backwards. Some styles are less obvious.
     
  6. mac64

    mac64 Nassau Grouper

    # of Dives: 5,000 - ∞
    Location: Ireland
    196
    53
    28
    Change the o-rings, a lot of my valves have inserts and rarely give trouble. Don't over tighten. I like em as i can use poseidon din or scubapro yoke first stages.
     
  7. a878bob

    a878bob Barracuda

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Michigan
    451
    139
    43
    It's obvious to me you need to find a new shop, this pro valves are very common.
     
    lexvil, rjack321 and tmassey like this.
  8. guruboy

    guruboy Divemaster ScubaBoard Supporter

    4,529
    706
    113
    Don’t grease anything.

    Chances are it’s a 112
     
  9. markmud

    markmud Self Reliant Diver, On All Dives. ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: South Lebanon, Ohio
    986
    795
    93
    Hi OP,

    I think these valves are marketed as "convertible" valves. They are handy. They are popular. DD and guruboy's points are right on. Most (maybe a plurality of) tanks are fitted from the factory with them.

    You will need an Alan wrench, some silicone grease (petroleum free), and some size 112 Buna-N, nitrile rubber O-rings, durometer 70 (for my valves anyway). The O-rings are used at both ends of the insert. For O2 service use Viton O-rings of the same size and Christo lube.

    I like to liberally coat the threads with silicone grease, but not too much. You don't need to service them as much as the tech states. I do mine about once a year. The silicone grease keeps the threads from corroding to much.

    cheers,
    markm
     
    The Chairman likes this.
  10. markmud

    markmud Self Reliant Diver, On All Dives. ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: South Lebanon, Ohio
    986
    795
    93
    Why not?

    markm
     

Share This Page