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Valve leaking around DIN to Yoke Insert plug

Discussion in 'Tanks, Valves and Bands' started by archman, Mar 10, 2019.

  1. Joris Vd

    Joris Vd Nassau Grouper

    # of Dives: 100 - 199
    Location: Belgium
    97
    36
    18
    so unless this is a very special insert you can basically google any din to yoke insert and it should work. I'm not sure about the US, but in Europe these are the standard valves you get when buying a tank except if you specify otherwise. Sometimes the o-ring can unseat itself, just like with a normal yoke tank. The o-ring you need for the insert is the exact same o-ring you need to put on your yoke valve if you have an old valve.

    AS112 O-ring (90 durometer afaik?)

    inner diameter:12,37 (mm)

    outer diameter:17,61 (mm)

    thickness: 2,62 (mm)

    I don't think the shop that sold the tank to you was trying to con you or anything. It's just more versatile since you can use both regulators without problems normally. Just screw it out once a month or so and you should be fine.
     
  2. scubadada

    scubadada Diver Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Philadelphia and Boynton Beach
    9,820
    5,175
    113
    Convertible valves are the norm. Not sure why they care if you can get the insert out for visual inspection and/or hydro.
     
  3. W W Meixner

    W W Meixner Rebreather Pilot

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Ontario Canada
    471
    297
    63
    AM...

    DIN/Yoke ''convertible'' valves...referred to as ''Pro'' valves are actually more common these days than yoke ''only'' valves...

    All you need to remove the insert is a standard ''Allen Key''...the two most common sizes are 5/6'' and 1/4''...

    The insert has two ''O'' rings...one ''O'' ring on the inside...which seats the insert to the valve body...and an outside ''O'' ring which seats the yoke on your first stage regulator...to the insert...two sealing surfaces...

    The inner ''O'' ring seal is an ''O'' ring seal...it does not have to be tight...tight...only snug...

    Ensure your post dive cleaning is thorough...ensure your ''O'' rings are maintained in a ''sealable'' condition...a little ''Crysto-lube'' on the insert threads may be beneficial...and ensure the insert is not being threaded in...front to back...as the seating surfaces are not the same...

    Valve service is part of annual tank servicing protocol...obviously your valve has not been receiving the attention it needs...

    It also sounds as though you shop tec...is not as ''tec'' as he/she needs to be...

    Make youself up a small ''dive'' dedicated tool kit...small water-tight tackle boxes work well...buy a ''Save-A-Dive'' ''O'' Ring kit...and a few basic tools to keep you from getting jammed-up and frustrated...

    All part of the basics to get you started down the long road to becoming ''self-reliant''...

    Best...

    Warren
     
    markmud likes this.
  4. Compressor

    Compressor ScubaBoard Supporter Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: NYS
    2,667
    1,139
    113
    Can you send a picture of the valve? I want to see all the corrosion.
    It's DIN/K valve. Very common.
     
  5. JackD342

    JackD342 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Highland Park, IL
    1,512
    725
    113
    I can’t speak for other brands, but Sherwood and Thermo both specify 5 year valve overhauls, so hydro is the obvious time to do it. I suspect other brands are the same.
     
    markmud likes this.
  6. boulderjohn

    boulderjohn Technical Instructor ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Boulder, CO
    25,635
    17,004
    113
    Unless it's metric.

    I ran into one on a boat a few weeks ago. The tank was owned by the shop and was on the boat, being rented by someone who needed a DIN valve. When they tried to open it, none of their hex keys fit it because it was metric. As it turns out, my DIN regulators are metric and require a 7mm hex key, and I had one in my save a dive kit. Luckily I had a big one with a long handle, because that insert was definitely frozen solid. It took all the strength several of us had and every bit of the mechanical advantage of the long handle to get that to open.

    All the "extra maintenance" you need is to do is loosen it a couple of turns every now and then and then tighten it up again.

    The inner O-ring is a standard DIN O-ring. The outer one is a standard yoke O-ring. If the only thing you do is loosen the insert every now and then, you should never need to replace the DIN O-ring again.

    What a lot of people who are familiar with these don't realize is that in many places, DIN valves are never used by local divers. I was an instructor with hundreds of dives before I saw my first DIN valve, and that was only because I started tech training. I will bet there are scuba techs working in shops all across the heartland of America who have never seen a DIN valve or a yoke insert for it.
     
    markmud and W W Meixner like this.
  7. BurhanMuntasser

    BurhanMuntasser Dive Charter

    # of Dives: I'm a Fish!
    Location: Nomad
    5,262
    1,583
    113
    The type of valves you are describing, DIN/Yoke (with insert), are becoming the standard in the international market. Most, if not all, tanks sold today have this type of valves.

    The "special" tool is a mere standard hex wrench. There isn't much to the preventative maintenance required, proper rinsing after use and unscrewing the insert with the very standard hex wrench to clean the threads. Nothing much more to it. No greasing of the o'rings needed and shouldn't be greased otherwise the grease will attract all kinds of dust, sand, dirt, etc. and make things worse. You will need to replace the o'rings on the insert on yearly basis with the visual inspection depending on your use of the tank.

    There are far worse things in life, chill out and enjoy diving!!!
     
    rjack321, Zef, Diving Dubai and 2 others like this.
  8. W W Meixner

    W W Meixner Rebreather Pilot

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Ontario Canada
    471
    297
    63
    BJ...

    Good point...I keep a set of both Metric and SAE Allen wrenchs in my tool box...there's a lot of Metric bits and pieces coming through now...just when you think your tool box has everything...the next time you make a purchase you find you have a new male/female nut/bolt/screw...you don't have a tool for...

    Then comes buying products that have their own proprietary fittings...that nothing Standard or Metric will fit...

    Best...

    Warren
     
  9. markmud

    markmud Self Reliant Diver, On All Dives. ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: South Lebanon, Ohio
    986
    795
    93
    Hi Boulderjohn,

    One of mine uses an 8mm allen wrench and all others use a 5mm wrench. Non of them are SAE. They are all Thermo valves.

    All of my convertible valves use the size 112 o-ring on both ends.

    One poster recommended no silicone grease or Christo lube on the threads. On the threads I have been using petroleum free silicone grease for 40% or less O2 tanks (non O2 clean) and Christo lube on the O2 clean tanks. What do you recommend?

    thanks,
    markm
     
  10. scubadada

    scubadada Diver Staff Member ScubaBoard Supporter

    # of Dives: 1,000 - 2,499
    Location: Philadelphia and Boynton Beach
    9,820
    5,175
    113
    I have an imperial and metric multitool in my kit, between the two, I have most everything.
     
    Compressor likes this.

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