Eric Sedletzky
Contributor
Deep wall dive?
Where do they have that in SoCal?
Maybe Farnsworth but that’s not an edge into the abyss, more like a cascading typography.
Using Your Steel Tank on a SoCal Dive Boat, Any risk of rust?
- Thread starter napDiver
- Start date
Please register or login
Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.
Benefits of registering include
- Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
- A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
- You can make this box go away
Where do they have that in SoCal?
Maybe Farnsworth but that’s not an edge into the abyss, more like a cascading typography.
OP already said it's an oil rigs dive.
My tank is still pretty new, but I've had my first visual inspection since having the Pacific Star and countless other boats fill it, and there were no problems. I also haven't heard of anyone having those issues. Don't bring 2 tanks unless you're sure they are running a sufficiently limited load that there will be space for them. And don't dive the rigs with an LP-72. An HP-100 gives me more air than NDL for those deep dives on the rigs, even with the weaksauce boat fills; if your SAC rate is considerably higher than .5 cf/m, consider bringing the 120 instead. Have fun!
My tank is still pretty new, but I've had my first visual inspection since having the Pacific Star and countless other boats fill it, and there were no problems. I also haven't heard of anyone having those issues. Don't bring 2 tanks unless you're sure they are running a sufficiently limited load that there will be space for them. And don't dive the rigs with an LP-72. An HP-100 gives me more air than NDL for those deep dives on the rigs, even with the weaksauce boat fills; if your SAC rate is considerably higher than .5 cf/m, consider bringing the 120 instead. Have fun!
@lexvil My first time to the oil rigs! I'm going to stick with my original plans. TY ur posts were exactly the info I needed.
@Rose Robinson thanks for the concern. I'll be bringing the HP120 and HP100. We will be fine. No down currents and there is the oil rig structure.
@Rose Robinson thanks for the concern. I'll be bringing the HP120 and HP100. We will be fine. No down currents and there is the oil rig structure.
@Esprise Me ty for the info. The smaller tank is for my gf
Eric Sedletzky
Contributor
Are they letting people bag up on scallops at the rigs these days?
Man, I never saw so many in one place, monsters too!
Man, I never saw so many in one place, monsters too!
Yep. Easy pickings.
For anyone interested, you need a fishing license with ocean enhancement (an extra $5 I think), a bag, and a knife. The best knife is a butter knife with some grippy tape around the handle and a wrist lanyard; Pacific Wilderness in San Pedro sells them pre-assembled for $15, or you can make your own. The knife doesn't have to be sharp, and it's safer if it isn't; you do want it thick enough to pry open the shells without bending, and you want it cheap enough that you're not going to chase after it like an idiot if you drop it. You want to remove the scallops from their shells underwater; the shells are heavy and carrying that much extra weight on a bottomless deep dive is dangerous. Ask someone to show you how to do it. I wouldn't recommend going after scallops your first time on the rigs unless you're already experienced with task-loading at those depths. (You'll sometimes find a few scallops as shallow as 60 feet, but the big ones are down around 90 feet and below.) Daily limit is 10 scallops; if you accidentally cut one in half, Fish and Game will count it as two.
Eric Sedletzky
Contributor
Buttons the size of hockey pucks!
I thought the next cross bar after 60’ was 120’?
60’ intervals between the cross bars?
I use a big pig sticker BFK for scallops.
I thought of making a small teak wedge that you could sneak up on a breathing scallop and stick the wedge into the “smile” and let it clamp down on it. Then you can take your time and carefully cut loose the flat side and do a nice clean job removing the button.
You need to have your buoyancy skills nailed down and pretty much second nature diving on the rigs!
I thought the next cross bar after 60’ was 120’?
60’ intervals between the cross bars?
I use a big pig sticker BFK for scallops.
I thought of making a small teak wedge that you could sneak up on a breathing scallop and stick the wedge into the “smile” and let it clamp down on it. Then you can take your time and carefully cut loose the flat side and do a nice clean job removing the button.
You need to have your buoyancy skills nailed down and pretty much second nature diving on the rigs!
YES we were going to catch scallops for the first time too! My gf has a flat tip titanium knife but I'll probably go to PW to pick up the knife your talking about. My bouyancy is good, task load no problems. My gf, well we will find out. I'm probably going to have to hold onto her catch bag until we get hit the surface.
This was a very helpful thread! Happy diving yall
This was a very helpful thread! Happy diving yall
- Messages
- 15,123
- Reaction score
- 12,008
- Location
- Philadelphia and Boynton Beach
- # of dives
- 1000 - 2499
Your cylinder requirements are based on gas consumption and depth. Assuming you know your RMV, it is easy to calculate the gas requirements for any dive. I have an average RMV of 0.36 cu ft/min. I can do essentially any no deco dive on an AL 80, except for shallow dives on high O2.
Similar threads
