Upgrading - Sony A7RV or Alternatives?

[MrTW]

Picking brains....

I have been shooting on a Panasonic Lumix LX10 in a Nauticam housing for the last 7 years shortly after it got released. Got about 300+ dives on my current setup and have been shooting mostly macro during that time.

I am a sure lifelong learner when it comes to UW photography but would consider to be experienced with regards to the overall framework (buoyancy, handling of camera/settings, shooting modes, composition, etc.).

Now, while the LX10 is a fun camera, I feel its time for an upgrade.

I am currently considering the Sony A7RV for the very fast majority of still photography and only some occasional video shooting on very rare circumstances. The plan is to start extending from macro to wide angle shooting over time.

Now, since this is a significant invest and I am not planning on changing setups for a several years after, I would like to pick brains to get feedback on a upgrade within the price range of the Sony A7RV in a Nauticam housing including suitable macro (priority) and WA lenses.

Any thoughts are highly appreciated!

 

[Mario Ruiz]

The Sony A7RV camera in a Nauticam housing is a great toy.
This is my first set for taking photos of the University of Warsaw without much preparation (total amateur)
The photos were taken after a few tips, without stroboscopes, only with video lamps and a FE 16-35 F2.8 GM wide angle lens. I took the photos without thinking twice, only one was set to a constant ISO200 and the photos are 90% ok for me.

It has only 3 disadvantages: Price; Transport scale; It makes huge RAW files up to 130mb, JPG up to 30-35mb

You can deal with flaws

I have A7R5 in Nauticam housing, not cheap but I am very pleased with it. Perfect ergonomy and long-term value (when you upgrade later to a newer camera model). I am not sure I would prefer a A7cR that has the same sensor, but less buttons/dials and customizability (size/weight and cost will be very similar at the end when you consider the full setup (domes/lenses/flashes etc...)...
For macro the Sony 90mm is a very good lens available. I read in posts that with older camera models (A7R3, A7R4) AF was inconvinient, but with A7R5 (and probably also A7cR/A7cII) it is a pleasure to use. A SMC-1 is required for smaller subjects...

When you come from LX10, you also may consider a system with smaller sensor: MFT, unlike all other systems, has perfect lens choices for both macro and WA, or maybe APS-C...

Wolfgang

 

[Mario Ruiz]

i hope all is well. i recently invested into the A7R5 system and was looking to meet UWP that shoot with the same system.

I wanted to ask you do you have a few images and experiences that you dont mind sharing with me. I am headed to Anilao in October for a workshop and have a ton of question. when you have some free time reach back out. salute

 

[Mario Ruiz]

I finally took delivery of the Nauticam housing for use with my A7CR. I went this route due to smaller form factor ABOVE water and overall cost difference. The camera difference is $900 and Nauticam housing difference is $750 bringing total cost difference to $1650. I do think the size difference when underwater is immaterial, however. I will mostly be using the 8-15 Canon and 16-35 GM lenses. The weather here in Northern California is rough right now but plan on using soon. Happy to chat on results when possible. Good luck with your decision.

How is that system woring for you? Do you mind sharing any images taken with this system. I am located a few miles away from you. we have to connect some day and get some dives in,

 

[WS007]

i hope all is well. i recently invested into the A7R5 system and was looking to meet UWP that shoot with the same system.

I wanted to ask you do you have a few images and experiences that you dont mind sharing with me. I am headed to Anilao in October for a workshop and have a ton of question. when you have some free time reach back out. salute

Hi Mario,

I see your post just now.
here are some photos, I made with the A7R5: Trip report: Red Sea UW-photography workshop (June 26th - July 3rd, 2023): Underwater Photography Forum: Digital Photography Review

For camera settings see here:

Sony A7RV - Question about camera settings for autofocus tracking of fish

Hi, I'm looking for any advice on good settings for using subject tracking autofocus on a Sony A7RV that is quite new to me. I have previously used an Olympus OMD EM 1ii where I used small spot auto focus but I don't have experience with subject tracking. My goal is photos of small fast moving fi...

waterpixels.net

Wolfgang

 

[aport68]

How is that system woring for you? Do you mind sharing any images taken with this system. I am located a few miles away from you. we have to connect some day and get some dives in,

Hi there. Happy to share some pics...DM me for contact info. Yes would love to setup a dive. Thanks!!

 

[hedonist222]

I have A7R5 in Nauticam housing, not cheap but I am very pleased with it. Perfect ergonomy and long-term value (when you upgrade later to a newer camera model). I am not sure I would prefer a A7cR that has the same sensor, but less buttons/dials and customizability (size/weight and cost will be very similar at the end when you consider the full setup (domes/lenses/flashes etc...)...
For macro the Sony 90mm is a very good lens available. I read in posts that with older camera models (A7R3, A7R4) AF was inconvinient, but with A7R5 (and probably also A7cR/A7cII) it is a pleasure to use. A SMC-1 is required for smaller subjects...

When you come from LX10, you also may consider a system with smaller sensor: MFT, unlike all other systems, has perfect lens choices for both macro and WA, or maybe APS-C...

Wolfgang

Hi Wolfgang.

Which strobe trigger did you get?
Nauticam states that the Sony A7RV Nauticam trigger creates a black band at the top of the image when shutter speed is set to 1/250. They recommend using it at 1/200.

 

[WS007]

Hi Wolfgang.

Which strobe trigger did you get?
Nauticam states that the Sony A7RV Nauticam trigger creates a black band at the top of the image when shutter speed is set to 1/250. They recommend using it at 1/200.

I have the Nauticam and the s-turtle (manual version). With Nauticam sync. is 1/200s with first curtain, with s-turtle it is 1/250s and I can select 1st or 2nd curtain from the camera menue during the dive...

 

[Ari Gato]

Yes and no. I favor no. That is about 2/3s of a stop roughly. Yes if it were 1/500 or 1/2000!

The camera you are leaving has sync at much higher speeds does it not? Moving from my Canon S90 with virtually unlimited sync speed to my Sony at 1/160th is a real downer. But the dynamic range of the larger and more advanced sensor does help make up as would much more powerful strobes if I could afford them and justify them to she who rules over me.

Being as almost all UW photos are done with strobe, I find the 1/160, 1/250 very constricting, enough so I am considering going back to a compact with ability to sync at high speed like the new Canon compacts always have.

Have you found that you need a faster sync speed than 1/160 or 1/250, and if so, for what? I've done most of my shooting at 1/125 and 1/160 (RX100 VII w/ Nauticam + YS-D3), and I'm pretty happy with the results overall. Using strobes helps freeze the movement anyway. What I find limiting, though, is the lower resolution and high noise I get from it. Lightroom's AI noise is good, but it does produce weird results when you compare to what a higher resolution / bigger sensor camera would capture.

 

[Nemrod]

Have you found that you need a faster sync speed than 1/160 or 1/250, and if so, for what? I've done most of my shooting at 1/125 and 1/160 (RX100 VII w/ Nauticam + YS-D3), and I'm pretty happy with the results overall. Using strobes helps freeze the movement anyway. What I find limiting, though, is the lower resolution and high noise I get from it. Lightroom's AI noise is good, but it does produce weird results when you compare to what a higher resolution / bigger sensor camera would capture.

Yes, sunballs. It would be nice to get a few more stops of shutter speed. I use my strobes to light the foreground, I would use the shutter speed to control the sunball. As it is now I have to stop down aperture and I quickly run out of strobe power. The 1/160 vs 1/250, not much but 1/500 would be nice.

Like this, here I was at 1/160 and f16, my D2000 strobes at full power and simply not enough light to expose the foreground to my liking and not enough shutter speed to dim the sunball down a little more.



Edit to add, I did the same shot at f22. I do not know where I put the image, lol, but the sunball is perfect, the foreground is very dark. I either need more powerful strobes or more shutter speed and preferably both . The f16 to f22 is a full stop. A 1/160 to 1/500 shutter speed is a stop and 1/3. I would take it if available but it is not.

 

[Barmaglot]

my D2000 strobes at full power

Yeah, it's a 'there's your problem' moment. With Retra Pros I've had no issues exposing sunballs at f/22