Ultima Dry Glove System question

[Zef]

Yep - thicker gloves and thicker liners = more warmth, but less tactility and dexterity. The key is to find a balance.

If it helps, the 3416s are softer and stretchier than 720s somehow - even though they're thicker. They're definitely easier to load, although it's the o-ring - not the glove - that makes it hard.

341/70 for the win

 

[flipsflop]

Hey,

thanks for all the great suggestions on gloves.
Did anyone ever try Showa 490 or 282?

I'm happy with the 720 but they're getting a little cold right now.. I've tried the 3416, but they're way too stiff.

 

[rob.mwpropane]

Hey,

thanks for all the great suggestions on gloves.
Did anyone ever try Showa 490 or 282?

I'm happy with the 720 but they're getting a little cold right now.. I've tried the 3416, but they're way too stiff.

How long have you used the 3416's? All gloves are going to feel better after a few dives. I know a few people said the 3416's have a break in period.

I wear my 720's and really like them. I wear burton powerstretch glove liners down to about 50f, then if its colder I change out the burtons for the yellow liners. Less dexterity but more warmth.

Dexterity and warmth...its a tough balance. I think about it like this though, I'm really only messing with stuff on the way down and the way up. So I only really have to deal with the loss of a little dexterity here and there. Having warm hands after 45 or 50 min when I'm in the 40's....priceless. having cold hands takes the fun out of it.

 

[Zef]

The SHOWA 490 has a thick acrylic liner (yellow) glued in. I would recommend the SHOWA 495 instead as it uses a removable acrylic under glove that is as warm or warmer than the liner in the 490.

-Z

 

[rob.mwpropane]

The SHOWA 490 has a thick acrylic liner (yellow) glued in. I would recommend the SHOWA 495 instead as it uses a removable acrylic under glove that is as warm or warmer than the liner in the 490.

-Z

+1 on removable lners. You don't always need them and can always use them with other gloves.

 

[Zef]

Hey,

thanks for all the great suggestions on gloves.
Did anyone ever try Showa 490 or 282?

I'm happy with the 720 but they're getting a little cold right now.. I've tried the 3416, but they're way too stiff.

The SHOWA 490 has a thick acrylic liner (yellow) glued in. I would recommend the SHOWA 495 instead as it uses a removable acrylic under glove that is as warm or warmer than the liner in the 490.

-Z

 

[lexvil]

Hey,

thanks for all the great suggestions on gloves.
Did anyone ever try Showa 490 or 282?

I'm happy with the 720 but they're getting a little cold right now.. I've tried the 3416, but they're way too stiff.

Try 3415’s they are more supple than 3416 and still black. The main thing in keeping hands warm is having enough room for a good under glove insulator and air circulation.

 

[Deep South Divers]

Try 3415’s they are more supple than 3416 and still black. The main thing in keeping hands warm is having enough room for a good under glove insulator and air circulation.

Be forewarned that the 3415 is very thin and scored a "0" on the EN388 cut scale, which is 0-5.

The 3416 scored a "5." Yes they're thicker, but the highest-rated dryglove I know of for cut protection. See this for a demonstration. Keep in mind as you watch this that I dive sealless... I have no wrist seals at all and rely 100% on my gloves to seal against water entry into my suit. That's how tough these gloves are and how much confidence I have in them:


The 720 scored a "1" - the same as the 660, which is the classic PVC "smurf" glove.

The 490 and 495 both scored a "2," but like the 660, are old-school PVC gloves. They tend to lack dexterity and stretch as well as native thermal insulation. They can both be thought of as 660s with liners to help make up for the lack of thermal insulative properties of PVC... Which explains their slightly higher cut resistance - the liners added one level. Of course, that's a little bit "smoke and mirrors" for us, since a cut in the glove itself will create a leak - the additional cut protection from the liner won't prevent that. They really can be thought of as a "1" in cut protection.

Most divers I know prefer a nitrile glove (720) either with or without a liner. They tend to be thinner, stretchier, more dexterous, and warmer (nitrile is a better thermal insulator) than PVC gloves (660 (smurf), 660ESD (black), 620 (orange DUI), 490 (smurf), 495 (smurf)). This comes as no surprise, since nitrile is a newer material than PVC and was designed to make PVC and latex both obsolete.

My advice? 720. Add a liner or even a thicker liner if you need the additional warmth. Opt for the 3416 if you need something tougher - but you'll lose some tactile feel, as they're thicker and "gummier."

Steer clear of the PVC gloves. They're outdated. You can get the same level of toughness and more warmth in a thinner, more tactile glove like the 720.

720s also load on rings a LOT easier.

All of the above information can be found in chart format at www.deepsouthdivers.org/gloves.jpg. The 3415 is not on there because the chart only includes gloves that have enough cut and abrasion resistance to trust as drygloves... And with a cut resistance of "0," I definitely do not trust them.

 

[lexvil]

Be forewarned that the 3415 is very thin and scored a "0" on the EN388 cut scale, which is 0-5.

The 3416 scored a "5." Yes they're thicker, but the highest-rated dryglove for cut protection. See for a demonstration.

The 720 scored a "1" - the same as the 660, which is the classic PVC "smurf" glove.

The 490 and 495 both scored a "2," but like the 660, are old-school PVC gloves. They tend to lack dexterity and stretch as well as native thermal insulation. They can both be thought of as 660s with liners... Which explains their slightly higher cut resistance - the liners added one level.

Most divers I know prefer a nitrile glove (720) either with or without a liner. They tend to be thinner, stretchier, more dexterous, and warmer than PVC gloves (660, 660ESD, 620, 490, 495). This comes as no surprise, since nitrile is a newer material than PVC and was designed to make PVC and latex obsolete.

My advice? 720. Add a liner or even a thicker liner if you need the additional warmth. Opt for the 3416 if you need something tougher - but you'll lose some tactile feel, as they're thicker and "gummier."

Steer clear of the PVC gloves. They're outdated. You can get the same level of toughness and more warmth in a thinner, more tactile glove like the 720.

720s also load on rings a LOT easier.

3415 has a lot of dives in, but not cleaning boat hulls so have yet to encounter anything that has damaged them, have also used the 3416 and I may try them again on the Rolock system which makes glove loading easy no matter what gloves I’ve tried. So far the 3415 has performed perfectly.

 

[divad]

Are the 720s contact-cement-able? I'm making my own Zip-Gloves........Oh!... I guess that's obvious.