Trustfire TR-J1 review

[Peter69_56]

I tried a 15 x 2 O ring which is the original O ring but in a Nitrile its too tight. I got it to work ok in 1 torch (tolerances obviously loose) but the rest I couldn't screw the cap on. I am talking the bottom end cap. The top seals are a different size and I have yet to touch them. They measure 20.35 mm x 1.78 mm but again are silicone which would be 019.
I might try the 016 for the bottom cap instead of the 15 x 2 and see how it seals.

Correction; The top and bottom battery tube seals are all the same size 019 will do it. The switch friction seal is different (26 x 1.5 mm approx)

 

[Ed Palma]

Found an interesting link on Trustfire's website.

Trustfire TR-J1 review

I like how some of the previous things mentioned got lost in translation

 

[@dam]

I now have 3 and will buy another one. I did find that all 3 sometimes would flicker on and off. I too them all apart as much as I could Top cover, lens, locking ring. The guts of the torch is held in with wires but I loosened it, then reassembled everything on each torch and they now work ok. Don't know why this was but it seems a fix anyway. They run for about 1 hr constant, bright with a Ultrafire 4200 mah high capacity lithium rechargeable battery before dimming off so enough for 1 dive if on all the time. If you only use it occasionally then good for a few dives.

Will you tell me exactly what you did? My TR-J2 flickers after I dropped it, and often won't stay lit at all. I took it apart as much as I could be didn't see what I could fix. I also tried new batteries.

 

[Peter69_56]

Will you tell me exactly what you did? My TR-J2 flickers after I dropped it, and often won't stay lit at all. I took it apart as much as I could be didn't see what I could fix. I also tried new batteries.

I have found that its important to ensure the torch is screwed together tightly after replacing batteries. It seems the cap connections or the top lens to tube connection is not always made unless tight. I am not sure why unless it doesn't make good contact through the threads but only the end. Also had some issues with batteries that flicker and don't charge properly which is not always obvious as to the cause. I ensure that when I pull the lens and guts out I make sure its all tight when refitted.

 

[@dam]

The spring in the tailcap is just sitting there, loose. I wonder if that makes a bad connection? The light does rattle when I shake it perpeindicular to its axis, but not so much when I shake it parallel to its axis, so the batteries must be a somewhat loose fit in the barrel.

Sometimes nothing happens when I turn the switch bezel. Loose magnet?

I imagine the flashlight body is what makes the connection to the negative side, so I degreased the threads on the tailcap. It seems to have helped some, but it still flickers.

Edit: I totally disassembeled everything again, degreased the threads on the head (which looked quite dirty), and re-tightened the ring that holds the LED in again, removed and replaced the magnet on the control ring, and it seems to be working again. LOL- I'd finally given up on it and ordered a replacement, too. It seems I'm really good at fixing something after I spend the money to replace it. The O-rings still look a bit shabby though. Hope it doesn't flood.

 

[Peter69_56]

The spring in the tailcap is just sitting there, loose. I wonder if that makes a bad connection? The light does rattle when I shake it perpeindicular to its axis, but not so much when I shake it parallel to its axis, so the batteries must be a somewhat loose fit in the barrel.

Sometimes nothing happens when I turn the switch bezel. Loose magnet?

I imagine the flashlight body is what makes the connection to the negative side, so I degreased the threads on the tailcap. It seems to have helped some, but it still flickers.

Edit: I totally disassembeled everything again, degreased the threads on the head (which looked quite dirty), and re-tightened the ring that holds the LED in again, removed and replaced the magnet on the control ring, and it seems to be working again. LOL- I'd finally given up on it and ordered a replacement, too. It seems I'm really good at fixing something after I spend the money to replace it. The O-rings still look a bit shabby though. Hope it doesn't flood.

Yes it appears that the cap, tube and top cap are part of the current path. Any looseness in the connection will prevent it from working. The threads are painted so not very conductive. Also I wonder if the reed switch inside the control circuit that the magnet operates may be a problem in some torches too.

Go to a bearing supplier who usually also has O rings and get some 019 Nitrile O rings to replace the tube O rings then you shouldn't flood the torch. They are more robust than the original silicon ones.

 

[redacted]

Go to a bearing supplier who usually also has O rings and get some 019 Nitrile O rings to replace the tube O rings then you shouldn't flood the torch. They are more robust than the original silicon ones.

Yes, the original o-rings are a bit too large and may be damaged (nibbles) during assembly. I found both -019 and -018 seem to work OK. On the double o-ring seals, I use a -019 on the wet side and a -018 on the dry side. I am confident the -018 will not be damaged during assembly. And you will notice how much easier the cap turns as compared to the original o-rings.

 

[@dam]

I ordered some 019 Nitrile O-rings. They're .801" ID (20.3 mm) x .07 CS (1.78 mm)

The old O-rings are much stretchier, smaller in diameter and thicker in cross section. I can fit the old one completely inside the new one without them touching. I imagine once it's stretched the cross section is about the same. When I was screwing the tailcap on I could see the new O-ring rotate a bit. I also can't get the light head screwed on 100%- the activation bezel has a few mm of play, but not enough to not work

Did I get the right part? Have you guys dived with these and confirm they won't flood if I replace all the black rings with these 019? 2 of my original rings have visible damage and need to be replaced.

 

[redacted]

I ordered some 019 Nitrile O-rings. They're .801" ID (20.3 mm) x .07 CS (1.78 mm)

The old O-rings are much stretchier, smaller in diameter and thicker in cross section. I can fit the old one completely inside the new one without them touching. I imagine once it's stretched the cross section is about the same. When I was screwing the tailcap on I could see the new O-ring rotate a bit. I also can't get the light head screwed on 100%- the activation bezel has a few mm of play, but not enough to not work

Did I get the right part? Have you guys dived with these and confirm they won't flood if I replace all the black rings with these 019? 2 of my original rings have visible damage and need to be replaced.

View attachment 172446

I have replaced all original body o-rings with 018s and 019 and had no problems. I did find damage (nibbling and twisting) on some of the original o-rings. But just to be sure, why not install a new 019 on the wet side of each barrel connection and leave an original on the dry side. Dive, let dry, and inspect to see if any water got into the space between the 2 o-rings.

 

[Spearo555]

Probaly better to ask the question in this thread than creating a new one.

Is there any diffrence in the size/concetration of the beam between j-1 and j-2? I will use it for lighting up holes and under ledges when hunting so a narrow beam is optimal for me and i heard these have that but cant decide what one to go for.