Tokina 10-17 vs Sony 10-18 vs AOI 09P

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hankypank

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Messages
8
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Location
Melbourne
# of dives
500 - 999
Hey everyone,

So I'm currently shooting with the a6500, Fantasea housing. After reading reviews on backscatter, UPG and DPG, I thought I'd call upon people here to share their experience with these options as it is hard to get direct comparisons.

My mates are shooting with the Tokina on a different brand body than me, and I'm really jealous, but I've heard that the metabones can often lead to some performance issues, and the extra ports etc start making things a bit expensive and complicated.

So I've been thinking of going for the sony 10-18, I've heard pretty good reviews, but rectilinear may get boring with the Tokina or wet lens options available.

Which brings my to the wet lens options, I have some friends producing great shots with wide angle wet lenses, which is making it hard to justify any dedicated lens at all, seeing as I already have a macro lens and flat port.

Please, help me out with some of your experiences.
 
Hi
I shoot a A6500 in a Fantasea housing too, and have both a Tokina 10-17 Canon mount and a a Fantasea Fantasea-AOI UWL-09Pro (this being a pass over from my compact days).
I use the Tokina on a Sigma MC-11 adaptor rather than the metabones (1/2 the cost and USB updatable). The only issue I have had is when I forgot to put ensure the lens was in Autofocus mode before closing the housing and jumping in... wierdly the Video worked fine but the photos were compromised as yo would expect.
Regarding quality of the lenses I prefer the Tokina over the Wet lens plus 16-50mm kit lens, thought that does pprovide greater flexibility. The Tokina is a truly great lens underwater. The wet lens although great I feel is wasted on an interchangeable lens system compared to a dedicated lens.

One think you maynot be thinking about is the weight of the Wet lens, it totally onbalances the system as it seems to weigh more that the housing and camera, and provides a very front heavy system.

Originally I was going to dive the system for a year or two atleast with wet lenses but moved across within 6moths to ported lenses (Tonika 10-17mm, Canon 60mm Macro and Sony 90mm macro) the kit lens is used as a back up (as is now the case as my fx-55G port has an issue requirign a full service on it).
I hope this helps
 
thanks for the reply!

So since I posted this, I have actually picked up the Sigma and the Tokina. I'm currently waiting to order a mini dome port for it, just waiting for diving options to open up again.

Really appreciate your write up. Makes me think I have made the right choice.
 
I actually have the same question and am curious what other says.

I'm picking up an A6500 shortly and debating on the Sony 10-18mm vs. Tokina 10-17

I mainly shoot wrecks in fairly low light situations.
 
I actually have the same question and am curious what other says.

I'm picking up an A6500 shortly and debating on the Sony 10-18mm vs. Tokina 10-17

I mainly shoot wrecks in fairly low light situations.

I am picking up my a6100 to go with the salted line housing I just got with the 6in dome.

I will be going with the tokina and a sigma mc-11. I owned the tokina years ago, and it was one of my favorite lenses. My previous system had a wet fisheye lens, and I like the effect. It's also significantly cheaper than the 10-18, especially on the used market. I got my adapter and lens for $285 total.
 
thanks for the reply!

So since I posted this, I have actually picked up the Sigma and the Tokina. I'm currently waiting to order a mini dome port for it, just waiting for diving options to open up again.

Really appreciate your write up. Makes me think I have made the right choice.

No problem, with the Sea and Sea dome on the front of a Fantasea housing ic can be a bit floatie... not too much but tends to point upwards and is slightly positive. (Don't like me put it down unclipped to release a shot - I don't want a 25kg weight on a lift bag next to my camera rig - I luckily turned around just to see the camera slowly rising from were I placed it - won't do it again).

If you're using the FX-55g adaptor on the Fantasea beware the gear cog teeth are shall we say able to snap off... just be gentle with it and not force it, if handled properly and not trying to use brute force it will be fine... I used brute force to my cost.
 
No problem, with the Sea and Sea dome on the front of a Fantasea housing ic can be a bit floatie... not too much but tends to point upwards and is slightly positive. (Don't like me put it down unclipped to release a shot - I don't want a 25kg weight on a lift bag next to my camera rig - I luckily turned around just to see the camera slowly rising from were I placed it - won't do it again).

Have you considered putting some wheel weights on the backside of the dome port? It may help it not nose up as much and save your wrist from stress.

I like to get my system neutral with the standard port, and then put any weight additions needed for the dome on the actual dome. Then it shouldn't change buoyancy even through port changes.
 
Have you considered putting some wheel weights on the backside of the dome port? It may help it not nose up as much and save your wrist from stress.

I like to get my system neutral with the standard port, and then put any weight additions needed for the dome on the actual dome. Then it shouldn't change buoyancy even through port changes.

Sorry I've been away (non-diving).... I thought about small wheel weights, but its not a massive issue and would be less of an issue if I could remember to switch my arms from Float arms to normal arms when not using macro.

When I remember its just the dome which wants to aim upwards when I release the handles... doesn't just float there like I've had others do.... saying that I have large wide angle wetlens and that has difinately the opposite effect.
 
Has anyone tried the tokina 10-17 with mc-11 adapter on a sony a6000? Is it true that focusing is a big issue underwater?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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