Tekna hubcap style 2nd stage

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I may have a contact, pm me and I will give it to you assuming I can find it. Essentially the non interest in the OP is that unlike the T2100, the hubcap style was so completely boring and conventional that it was not very successful, I have never seen one but on ebay.

N
 
Nemrod:
I may have a contact, pm me and I will give it to you assuming I can find it. Essentially the non interest in the OP is that unlike the T2100, the hubcap style was so completely boring and conventional that it was not very successful, I have never seen one but on ebay.

N


Hi Nemrod,

I couldn't resist, I just bought a 2100BX off of ebay even though you said you just regard them as a parts regulator. Looks like it is a Tekna first stage also by the shape and yoke knob. My question is, and since I am not too mechanically inclined, and lazy, is there anybody you know of who could service this before I take it on a dive? I have another bid on a 2100B and might use that as the primary. Sorry for getting off topic adler_steven.

Thanks,

James
 
Hmmm, in short, the answer is NO, there are no parts, there is nobody that services them, neither the T2100 series or the "hubcab" model have any service or parts support nor any current equivilents for the second stages and exhaustive searches by myself and others turn up precious little. Like I said, the saving grace is that apparently the second stages were meant to be service free and the first stage is a clone common to the Oceanic series such as the Omega and is so similar to the ScubaPro MK V that some parts work. Parts for the first should be available still from Oceanic--maybe. I have some parts stash but it has declined to the point I am beginning to retire these regulators one by one each with a tear. I am pretty much in the same boat, not quite so bad, with all of my Voit regulators. Guess I will have to buy something new.

The The T2100BX was prone to flutter, the little assembly inside would crack and deform and it was detuned from the T2100B and T2100.

I still use a T2100B as second with my Phoenix Royal Aqua Master, I still have one working Tekna set of T2100Bs and a working T2100. I last dove the T2100Bs last spring out of Pensecola over a year ago--mostly because I did not want the charter dive master to freak over my double hose so I let him freak over the T2100s, a lesser of evils.

Sorry I cannot be anymore help as to service connections but I essentially do my own wrenching, dive shop personal with rusty pliers scare me.

I love staying up all night watching old movies--lol.

N
 
OK, here goes.

I agree with Nemrod in that is unlikely you will find a LDS willing to service the regs, so you'll have to bite the bullet and plan on some DIY.

The 2100 first stage is a Scubapro MK V clone (with a bit of an Oceanic twist !). The Oceanic twist is that you have two choices for the sintered filter, either a generic flat filter (1/2" x 1/16") or an Oceanic cone filter (Yoke style, part number 3545). The flat filter, because of a slightly smaller surface area tends to reduce the flow rate.

For the remaining spare parts you can purchase a Scubapo MK V service kit ('O' rings, high pressure seat).

Alternatively if you intend to service the regs yourself on a regular basis, go to my favourite internet hardware supplier; McMaster Carr (www.mcmaster.com) and purchase bulk 'O' rings from there. Personally I have bought Milspec Viton 'O' rings, various S/S circlips for all of my regs etc. in bulk from McMaster.

Then go to your favourite local plastic machinist and purchase a length of 1/2" diameter virgin Teflon rod and have them machine it into 1/4" lengths for the HP seat. You want to get it machined rather than cut by hand to ensure the surface is flat & square.

Note that if your intermediate pressure is low, then you can either increase the length of the HP seat (perhaps get them machined at varying lengths of 1/4", 9/32", 5/16") or insert shims on either end of the piston spring.

From a tool perspective, you'll need an open ended spanner to remove the Yoke assembly, a pin wrench to remove the cap from the body, a face pin spanner to remove the seat retainer, a socket to remove the swivel from the cap and I prefer to use a sewing needle to remove the 'O' ring from inside the piston bore (of course that 'O' ring like the others gets discarded !)

Finally for assembly you may want to purchase a torque wrench (the specification for tightening the swivel to the cap is 75-100 lbs/ft) and a piston bullet. Also if you expect to service your own regs, an intermediate pressure gauge is a worthwhile investment, otherwise borrow one periodically.

And don't forget a tube of Christolube !

Then find yourself a copy of a Scubapro MK V service manual and have fun. While these are high precision engineered components, they are not very complicated. Just be gentle and do not score any of the internal machined surfaces or the piston.

As Nemrod has said, the Tekna 2100 second stages were designed to be maintenance free. In my 20 years of diving 2100B's, other than 'O' rings and a precuationary replacement of the main diaphragm, I have not had to replace the inhalation or exhaust diaphragms, the seal ring or the pilot lever assembly.

On the other hand after a days diving, I disassemble the valve body and inhalation diaphragm assembly and wash the whole lot gently in warm water. Perhaps that's why they've lasted so long ?

From a spare parts perspective, it is still possible to purchase inhalation & exhaust diaphragms and some of the plastic components (including 2100BX valve bodies), however I think it is now impossible to find replacement seal rings or pilot lever assemblies.

The main diaphragm (the big thick black thing with metal middle bit) can be replaced with the main diaphragm from an Oceanic Omega (part number 3799).

So provided your seal ring and pilot lever is OK, you should be abe to get a few more years out of your Tekna 2100 !

PM me if you need a contact for the few second stage parts I mentioned.
 
Adler, that is an excelent post for anyone interested in the T2100.

One thing, that is 75-100 INCH/pounds and not Foot/pounds.

The T2100 and T2100B are awesome regulaotrs, I hate that word but it fits.

N
 
Nemrod:
Adler, that is an excelent post for anyone interested in the T2100.

One thing, that is 75-100 INCH/pounds and not Foot/pounds.

The T2100 and T2100B are awesome regulaotrs, I hate that word but it fits.

N

Its a shame that no other company has ever shown any interest in putting the T2100 series back into production. They rocked when they first came out and still continue to rock.

Rickg
 
Quote from Nemrod..Adler, that is an excelent post for anyone interested in the T2100....

Adler...I second that opinion....Welcome to Scuba Board....I would think your HP seat tip would apply to SP MK V and MK X owners too. I hope you will hang out here at the regulator forum and also at the DYI forum. You will be in good company there.

couv
 

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