Tanks... what to get?

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

MNScuba

Guest
Messages
745
Reaction score
4
Location
Mini-snow-ta
Someday I'd like to get my own tank... Just thought I'd get a heads-up on what you all think would be best, and if it's even a benefit to have your own tank...

Details:
1. I live in MN, so it's not blistering warm all year.
2. Thinking about doing an ice dive or two someday.
3. Probably won't be going too deep.
 
Hey another Minnesotan on the boards! Well...if you're going to dive a lot, owning your own tank makes sense economically and it's more convenient. I personally like steels better myself because they don't have positive buoyancy once the tank gets low on air.:)
 
Aluminum tanks are cheap and easy to get and are good for general diving as you gain experience, but you won't regret getting a steel tank like the Green one says.

Steels are also inherently negative bouyant, which means that you will also be able to shed some weight off of your belt in favor of the tank.
 
Murdock,
Sounds as if you'll eventually be dry suit diving. I'm no dry suit diver, but you will want LP steel for that. Some of the other guys on the board will be able to explain everything you need to know about cold water/weather diving.:cold: Dive safely in that ice water! :tree:Bob
 
You know I gotta be differant, I say High Pressure Steel
I dive with HP-100's

............... Arduous .................
 
A few thoughts....

- Steels are more negatively buoyant than AL of the same volume

- HP steels are more negatively buoyant than LP -- could be a key issue if you wear a lot of weight (allows you to get some weight off of your belt)....although you have to keep in mind how much of your "weight" is now ditchable

- HP steels are generally lighter (dry land weight) than LP steels which are generally lighter than AL of the same volume -- this can be a key issue if you do alot of shore diving

- Steels are about twice the cost of AL tanks

- LP steels come with a "+" rating (DOT rating that allows them to be filled to 2640 PSI) that lasts for 5 years. After that, their "allowable" max pressure goes down, reducing the volume of air

- HPs are filled at higher pressures -- some shops may have trouble getting you a complete fill.
 
I found a great deal on a HP 120 steel and grabbed it. I love that tank. Only thing is I was new to diving and did not realize that the weight of that puppy. He weights 60lbs when full. And I do wet suit diving in fresh water. I do not need weights. Which is not good. But I still love that tank.
I bought an 80 aluminum tank to get use to what I would be using on a charter or trip. But you know me I cant leave nothing alone. So I pulled out some old lead and started melting it down. about 4.5lbs. Poured it into a mold of a tank base and now have a slight negitive tank when empty.
If you can get the steel in a large capacity. Think doubles in the future?
 
Aluminum tanks are available for a cheap price. They are very resistant to corrosion and normally use standard valves. They are a bit longer than comparable steel. However, they do not require a boot to stand upright; although some divers add a special boot which contains a lead weight in order to counter positive buoyancy. Most types are rated 3000 psi.

Steel tanks are more diverse in their buoyancy and corrosion characteristics. They do not all use standard valves. Some HP versions use a "DIN" valve. The PST HP tank holds 3500 psi, uses a DIN valve, and is fairly compact. These tanks are also relatively light with only slight negative buoyancy. They are very corrosion resistant with hot dip galvo exterior coating. The Faber HP tank is fairly rare but they are seen among dry suit divers. For this reason, they seem to be popular in England and some other lands. They are extremely heavy and negatively buoyant. Either DIN or standard valves can be fitted to these 3490 psi tanks. The Faber tanks are fairly resistant to corrosion with paint over metallized galvo. Most steel tanks are fitted with boots which increase drag to a minor degree and trap moisture which, over a period of time, can produce a whitish corrosion on galvo and blisters on painted tanks.

Several companies sell LP tanks under various brands. Most are manufactured by PST or Faber. They have varying degrees of buoyancy and are of the same general characteristics as above. Of the two major steel lines, some LP Fabers are nearly as buoyant as aluminum tanks while PST are all slightly negative. Either standard or DIN valves can be fitted. Their pressure ratings run to 2640 psi.
 

Back
Top Bottom