Tank tumbling problem- film residue, no shine.

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

dave4868

Old diver
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
1,654
Reaction score
33
Location
Vero Beach, FL, USA
# of dives
500 - 999
Great forum! Love DIY!

I need some advice how to avoid getting a dull film after tumbling.

With my homemade tumbler, I've been tumbling tanks with aluminum oxide chips and usually end up with a thin, beige film that dulls the shine.

I don't believe it's rust. It seems more like a residue from the slurry that hasn't been rinsed off completely.

My rinse water, even though softened, is still quite high in iron and quite hard.

By the way, I follow a standard tumbling procedure based on Global's guidelines, including use of rust inhibitor.

http://www.gmcscuba.com/ttips.htm).

To try to solve this residue problem, I've varied the amount of degreaser, used more extensive rinsing, used de-mineralized water for the final rinse, varied the drying methods and used repeated tumbles.

Essentially, I have to do a second or third "cleansing tumble" with degreaser and well-rinsed aluminum oxide chips, followed by final rinses with demineralized water to get a good shine. I've been drying the cold tanks with compressed scuba air, taking about 5 minutes to get them thoroughly dry.

Am I being too fussy about getting that shine?

With my own tanks it doesn't bother me, but I'm occasionally doing tanks for other people.

My main goal then is to try to eliminate the need for a cleansing tumble, I'm thinking of increasing the pressure of my final rinse by using a 200 psi water fire extinguisher I've converted. I can get a high-pressure nozzle for broad spray coverage (like 270 degrees or so).

I'll try that next time I tumble, but if it doesn't work, I'm also thinking of using glass beads or cylindrical ceramic media for the "cleansing tumble" to make it more effective.

Questions- (If you know off-hand- please don't go to the trouble of searching- I'll keep looking myself)

1. What size glass beads work well? I'm assuming something about 3/16" diameter.

2. Who sells that size glass bead? (Other than Global, which is expensive.)

So far, I've only found blast media suppliers, and the largest they sell is what they call size 6, 50-70 mesh, which I assume is closer to 1/8".

3. McMaster-Carr sells angle-cut cylindrical ceramic media in different levels of abrasiveness.

Which level would be best for tank tumbling: Polishing (no abrasive), Medium or Coarse?

A buddy has ceramic media from Global and it's definitely either medium or coarse.

Anyone here know?

If you have other ideas, I'd appreciate your input. Thanks in advance.

Dave C
 
Thank you, Fred!

Very helpful specifics and links!

Kindest regards.

Dave C
 
I bought a bunch of marbles from a craft store. These are about 3/8" diameter. I think the Global ones are smaller. I spent about $100 on marbles to get about .3 cft, which should be just over half the internal volume of my largest tank. I think Global recommends about 10 lbs (roughly $100 of beads), but I'm not sure how many cft that is. My marbles weight 28.5 lbs! Maybe it's overkill, but then again, it's DIY!

I also bought the fine ceramic media from McMaster- 25lbs should be fine for AL80s and maybe a little light for LP95s. I haven't used it yet, but I suspect that I'll end up with a little dark spot in the center of the bottom of my larger tanks.
 
You don't need to be worried about a dull film. The hoosier tap water contains a lot of limestone. sometimes, it looks like a milk right after the tap, but we are drinking.

PSI even argues that a fresh rust right after a thumbling is fine. Based on PSI records, they haven't seen any O2 cleaned or oxygen tanks that didn't have a rust inside. The medcial tanks in the hospital were more horrible.

In addition, you don't need a tumbling if there is no rust sign.

We are so much panic about O2 clean and tumbling. It mgiht be a good revenue for LDS though...
 
hoosier:
In addition, you don't need a tumbling if there is no rust sign.

We are so much panic about O2 clean and tumbling. It mgiht be a good revenue for LDS though...

You should tumble if there are signs of hydrocarbons or other contaminants :)

I've been drying the cold tanks with compressed scuba air, taking about 5 minutes to get them thoroughly dry.
Are you using cold water too? I've always used hot water and have not had a problem with flash rust.
 
Of course, if there is any sign of a hydrocarbons and oil residuals.

But, some people is just taking a tumbling step religiously......

I am also using a hot water and nitrox air to dry out the tank.. It has been working very well so far...
 
Soap, water, marbles, I don't use any of that stuff. I mean, calling that green stuff "degreaser" is a joke. For tumbling, I use a fine gravel from the pet store. The grains are about 1/8 inch. For O2 cleaning, I pour in some ENSOLV, anywhere from a pint to a quart. The liquid is sloshed around for a minute and drained along with any fine grit left over from tumbling. The tank is air dryed for a couple minutes and done. Even if a small patch of discoloration (rust) is left in the bottom it is irrelevant. The tank is clean enough for oxygen. ENSOLV is a precision solvent for O2 cleaning. It will completely remove any oil or silicone grease. However, that is on the condition that no plug is used. Instead of a plug, the neck exterior is obstructed with tape to allow wetting of the threads and complete removal of grease.
 
hoosier:
.................

PSI even argues that a fresh rust right after a thumbling is fine. Based on PSI records, they haven't seen any O2 cleaned or oxygen tanks that didn't have a rust inside. The medcial tanks in the hospital were more horrible.

In addition, you don't need a tumbling if there is no rust sign.

We are so much panic about O2 clean and tumbling. It mgiht be a good revenue for LDS though...

My tanks sometimes have a little 2 inch dia rust stain at the bottom. It is insignificant and results from not using enough media during tumbling. I don't care about that. However, flash rust on the side walls is a little too much for me. I just don't like it. In any case, I have tumbled and O2 cleaned a number of tanks without leaving any rust whatsoever. ENSOLV is not water, it is a solvent degreaser approved for oxygen systems. In fact, it has anticorrosive properties. Maybe, PSI should take note and rethink the marbles, soap suds, water, rust inhibitor, hot air drying, drying rack and whatever other nonsense that they are doing. It takes one or two minutes to rinse a tank with solvent. Air drying is not necessary but a one minute air blast helps clear out any odor and then it's done, finished.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

Back
Top Bottom