Tank tumbling hell.

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We all know alcohol is toxic, although some single malt Scotch whiskeys appear to be less toxic than other forms of alcohol. More field study is required.

I have very good results with the various Islay Single malts. Cask strength is a must! For me, Ardbeg seems to work best with "Almost There" in 1st place, closely followed by "Supernova".
A step down but still much better than anything else is "Corryvreckan". Sometimes they even taste a bit better with the addition of 1 or 2 drops of water in the snifter glass.
Michael
 
I did some reading and per Wikipedia, "Acetone leaves a small amount of residue on a surface when dried", so my buddy and his well known instructor were wrong. .

Yes. He was wrong. (My god!!! An instructor was wrong??? The horror, the horror.) At the PPM level, acetone strongly shows up whenever someone uses it to clean stuff. We have samples come in where an acetone based cleaner was used just to wipe down the fittings between the compressor and the testing cylinder. All fail to meet CSA standards.

Like rjack321 says, hot water. Boiling hot water. Don't use chemicals.

And don't listen to your instructor. It's obvious he's making stuff up as he goes along or the people he learned from are.
 
Sorry for your troubles, bro.

If it's any consolation, I have tumbled my steel 130s numerous times, and have never experienced flash rust.
Ever.
 
If all else fails dry with nitrogen. A secret is make sure the cyls are warm as they will dry very fast.
 
 
I have had flash rust problems as well.
I just whip it and blow it out,
 
This will dry your tanks or kill you

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This will keep you occupied in between


Merry Christmas
 
Getting rid of flash rust by whipping all depends on how good your tools are. A wimpy set of brushes will produce wimpy results.
I made some cleaning tools so good that even some bottom pitting is no match for my brushes.
My local dive shop was so enamored by them that they commissioned a full set from me.
I brush the sides with one tool, brush the bottom with another tool (that requires a special installation bushing), blow it out with tank air like the one shown by @happy-diver and call it a day.
All my tanks are brilliant inside.
 
Getting rid of flash rust by whipping all depends on how good your tools are. A wimpy set of brushes will produce wimpy results.
I made some cleaning tools so good that even some bottom pitting is no match for my brushes.
My local dive shop was so enamored by them that they commissioned a full set from me.
I brush the sides with one tool, brush the bottom with another tool (that requires a special installation bushing), blow it out with tank air like the one shown by @happy-diver and call it a day.
All my tanks are brilliant inside.
...but not on 7/8" tanks... right? I think it's best to stick with chemical rust removal on those, yeah?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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