Tank recommendations

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I don't know of any modern regulator that is not compatible with the standard HP cylinders (3442 PSI). It is only when you get into the really high pressure stuff (not common here in the states) that you need a regulator for higher pressures. By higher pressures, 300 bar, 4500 PSI. Those are the ones that need the high pressure DIN connections (different from the regular DIN connections). Not normal North American stuff, so not a worry.
Thanks, because I have a brand new Sherwood sr2 that has a yoke connection, would hate to have to turn around and buy a new reg already.
 
I don't know of any modern regulator that is not compatible with the standard HP cylinders (3442 PSI). It is only when you get into the really high pressure stuff (not common here in the states) that you need a regulator for higher pressures. By higher pressures, 300 bar, 4500 PSI. Those are the ones that need the high pressure DIN connections (different from the regular DIN connections). Not normal North American stuff, so not a worry.
It is also an issue for any of the older generation 3500psi high pressure tanks which use the narrower 7/8" necks. The 7/8" valves are (effectively) ONLY available with 300bar DIN connections which can't be used with 200bar DIN regulators or any Yoke/A-Clamp regulators.

3500psi 7/8 tanks dominate the high-pressure used market here locally. They are great tanks, but are 300bar DIN only.
 
If it helps, I normally wear a 5 mm full suit with a hood and gloves.
Yes, my HP80 should work great with a 5mm farmer John/Jane and 5mm long short sleeve shorty, I think. (I wore a 0.25" (~6.5 mm) farmer john and shorty.)

EDIT: Corrected "long sleeve" to read "short sleeve."

rx7diver
 
It is also an issue for any of the older generation 3500psi high pressure tanks which use the narrower 7/8" necks. The 7/8" valves are (effectively) ONLY available with 300bar DIN connections which can't be used with 200bar DIN regulators or any Yoke/A-Clamp regulators.

3500psi 7/8 tanks dominate the high-pressure used market here locally. They are great tanks, but are 300bar DIN only.
Thanks for the info
Yes, my HP80 should work great with a 5mm farmer John/Jane and 5mm long sleeve shorty, I think. (I wore a 0.25" (~6.5 mm) farmer john and shorty.)

rx7diver
how much of a difference would there be between a farmer John and a standard full suit?
 
Another vote for the HP100.

I suggest reading Rich asks…Why are you diving with that Tank?

Here's the most relevant part:

Let’s take a look at AL 80 vs HP 100

HP 100 tank is 2″ shorter
1 pound heavier
negative 5.3 less buoyant @500psi

so you need 5 pounds off your weight belt
You get much more air about 22.10 cu ft of extra air

in the end you are 4 pounds lighter with this tank over the AL 80. (-5 off weights +1 for tank weight)
29% more air and a shorter more comfortable tank.
 
Thanks for the info

how much of a difference would there be between a farmer John and a standard full suit?
@myself,

Farmer John + long-sleeve shorty (either beaver tail shorty or step-in shorty) was what was commonly worn here in MO and AR in the late 1980's.

When we went for a suit for my daughter for her recent open water checkout (Bull Shoals Lake AR), my LDS rented her a 5 mm long sleeve jumpsuit and a 5mm short sleeve step-in shorty (to be worn over). He said that this is the configuration they are recommending these days for "local" diving here.

I am not sure I understand what you mean by "standard full suit."

ETA: The specifications for my [Sherwood Genesis branded PST] HP80's can be seen on the Huron Scuba Tank Specification page. IIRC, the buoyancy specs reported are for salt water.

rx7diver
 
@myself,

Farmer John + long-sleeve shorty (either beaver tail shorty or step-in shorty) was what was commonly worn here in MO and AR in the late 1980's.

When we went for a suit for my daughter for her recent open water checkout (Bull Shoals Lake AR), my LDS rented her a 5 mm long sleeve jumpsuit and a 5mm short sleeve step-in shorty (to be worn over). He said that this is the configuration they are recommending these days for "local" diving here.

I am not sure I understand what you mean by "standard full suit."

ETA: The specifications for my [Sherwood Genesis branded PST] HP80's can be seen on the Huron Scuba Tank Specification page. IIRC, the buoyancy specs reported are for salt water.

rx7diver
I mean a full, one piece wetsuit, no bottoms and tops, just one piece of neoprene.
 
Some people above suggest a (steel) HP100. Let me suggest a (steel) HP80. I purchased my two HP80's (82 cu ft @ 3,500 psig) in 1987. Still love these little cylinders for three-season recreational dives in MO and AR lakes and quarries when I'm wearing a full, two-piece, thick wetsuit. (They are a bit too negatively buoyant for me, though, if I am wearing a thin, or no, wetsuit.)
Why recommend such a short tank to a 6' diver? What advantage does it have for him over the HP100 or one of the larger tanks?
 
Why recommend such a short tank to a 6' diver? What advantage does it have for him over the HP100 or one of the larger tanks?

HP80s have NO advantages over HP100 for taller people.

Recommending HP80s for someone 6’ tall is beyond silly. HP80s are great tanks for us shrimps. I’m 5’5” and dived them for several years. They look like soup cans on the back of someone tall. I know tall people who dived them. I don’t know why. They said they always had issues. I think they got them cheap.

HP100s for taller people.
 
HP80 is the worst possible choice for a tall person (at least is for me). Diving one makes me terribly "head heavy".

YMMV
 

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