Tank Prices

[Empty V]

Well I'm set, I'm ready for my 130, now I just need money. Now is there a certain brand of HP tanks thats preferred?

It's a shame scubaboard has not updated all of it's features because there seems to be a big difference between 0-15 dives and 16-50.

Billy

 

[TheRedHead]

So if you dive with doubles you need another reg, more o-rings and hoses? Do you dive with doubles?

Billy

You would need a manifold, bands, another regulator. It would be more expensive than buying a new 130.

I dive double 72s, but they are the new ones made by Faber. Faber also makes a 133.

 

[Mo2vation]

Well I'm set, I'm ready for my 130, now I just need money. Now is there a certain brand of HP tanks thats preferred?

It's a shame scubaboard has not updated all of it's features because there seems to be a big difference between 0-15 dives and 16-50.

Billy

HP tanks "officially" start at 3500. These are sort of 'tweeners.'

And remember, the boat dive arguement you'll hear is limp. Do the math.

Dive one - you'll board with a plump 3446 dive shop fill in your 130 (130 CF)

Dive 2 - you'll get between 2700 (Pac Star) and 3400 (Peace) into your 130. Lets split the diff, as most boats fill to at least 3000. (113 CF)

Dive 3 - 3000 (113 CF)

That's 356 CF of gas for the dive day.

Go on with your 72 and you'll have between 216 and 238. With an AL80, a little more, etc, etc, etc.

You won't find another tank that will deliver over 350 CF of gas for a boat dive day. You just won't. I mean, maybe you can get into an LP120... talk about tankzilla. OY.

The 130 is the finest tank yet made for SoCal diving. If you want mad BT (who doesn't) in the cold water, its the only real choice. Its why I keep saying eventually, all serious SoCal divers will move to one. Its just a good choice.

Ken

 

[limeyx]

So if you dive with doubles you need another reg, more o-rings and hoses? Do you dive with doubles?

Billy

yes i do, and usually the O-rings come as part of the regs

 

[limeyx]

I didn't think so. I hope not. It'd be like a collision between a Miata and a guy's car.

Moving to doubles is a money pit if you're going to remain a recreational diver. Although I don't know my man, Billy - I surmised he (like me) is a recreational weenie. It adds up fast:

* Doubles Training - serious training is real dollars.

* Another First Stage

* Bands, Manifold

* Likely a new BC. At the very worst, another wing

OY - enough already! eBay those estate sale hot dogs from the Carter Administration, get over the overrated nostalgia of diving these Mike Nelson throwbacks and get a new 130.

All of your tank issues (whether they be severe hooverism, end of dive floatyness, rigging, trim, gas volume, etc.) will be solved.

I'm no hercules, and they haven't made the SoCal shore dive I can't take my 130 on yet. I mean short of scaling down a mountain, there isn't any reasonable site I haven't taken this thing on.

---
Ken

Hey, I didn't say it was cheap!

Have you taken the 130 to PV yet? (say Long point I guess you could do it, but yeech. Rather you than me.

 

[Mo2vation]

Hey, I didn't say it was cheap!

Have you taken the 130 to PV yet? (say Long point I guess you could do it, but yeech. Rather you than me.

True. You didn't say it would be cheap!

Now that Claudette is diving a 130, I believe she did her first 80+ minute dive at OML with me last time we dived out of Long Point. I also believe that was the LAST dive she did with wet gloves.

Its only a matter of time until all drysuit divers in SoCal stop diving with wet hands and move up to the DC gloves. Its the best sub $140 dive investment you can make in safety, comfort and enjoyment.

Blue. Its the new black!

---
Ken

 

[limeyx]

True. You didn't say it would be cheap!

Now that Claudette is diving a 130, I believe she did her first 80+ minute dive at OML with me last time we dived out of Long Point. I also believe that was the LAST dive she did with wet gloves.

Its only a matter of time until all drysuit divers in SoCal stop diving with wet hands and move up to the DC gloves. Its the best sub $140 dive investment you can make in safety, comfort and enjoyment.

Blue. Its the new black!

Hmmm, I managed a 75 min dive at flat rock on an 80 with 800 left and my SAC sucks true, avg depth was probably 20 feet.

I actually meant flat rock not long point -- aka "goat trail"

I have a pair of the dry gloves that I've been "meaning to try out" for ages now. Not the ring system though, just the gloves with seals attached.

 

[neophyte]

Now is there a certain brand of HP tanks thats preferred?

Billy

My understanding (mainly from reading here) is that you want ones that are hot-dip galvanized (like PSTs and Worthingtons). This should hold the corrosive forces of saltwater at bay much longer than the triple-coat/painted tanks like Fabers.

 

[Mo2vation]

Hmmm, I managed a 75 min dive at flat rock on an 80 with 800 left and my SAC sucks true, avg depth was probably 20 feet.

I actually meant flat rock not long point -- aka "goat trail"

I have a pair of the dry gloves that I've been "meaning to try out" for ages now. Not the ring system though, just the gloves with seals attached.

The first one is easy to get on. The second one, not so much.

But the DC's can be found for about $75 on eBay, TDS and other sites, or $140 delivered new from COVCI.

Once you get a big tank and a drysuit, and your SAC is in the .40's and you're doing dives in the 70's, 80's and 90's in this 50-something water, there is nothing like dry gloves to improve your safety and comfort. Plus, your feet warm up... amazing side benefit!

I've been diving the dry gloves year round for a couple of seasons, and I just love them. I'll never dive with wet hands in my DS again.

---
Ken

 

[Mo2vation]

My understanding (mainly from reading here) is that you want ones that are hot-dip galvanized (like PSTs and Worthingtons). This should hold the corrosive forces of saltwater at bay much longer than the triple-coat/painted tanks like Fabers.

Galv tanks heal themselves. Painted tanks don't.

Galv is an amazing coating. Without going into all the science of it, suffice it to say its cool stuff that actually seals scratches.

Anyone who's ever had their Galv tanks hydro'ed knows the new stamps come back all shiney and scary... I mean I had visions of them being rust bombs.

A couple weeks later, some dives and poof - the stamps are all galv'ed up like the rest of the tank.

Painted tanks are cheaper and attractively priced and all that. I get it. But my tank bands need to bite into the tank to seal down - and that means scratches. I shore dive a lot - that means scratches. I'm constantly setting up and taking down on rough parking lots, throwing my tanks into the back of my truck, schlepping them from place to place, bouncing myself off of reefs and rocks for lobster, etc.

But for the long haul, and I do plan on owning these tanks for decades, my cash is going into Galv steel tanks every time.

---
Ken