Talk to me about the Conshelf XIV Supreme

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

Why the hell would they put the big port in the wrong place???

Who knows what they were thinking. It makes somewhat more sense with an octo setup, rather than a bungeed secondary, but the ports still aren't quite right. Some people use a 90 degree adapter on the BC hose with these. I don't think it's necessary.

So, what's the ideal reg for hose routing, when using a bungeed secondary?

i recently got the MK 15 overhauled (I heard they can handle higher service pressures - I get fills to 3800 in my HP tanks) - so I am hopeful it will last a while before service.

The Conshelf is good to 300 bar, although the yoke connection limits the maximum pressure, with earlier versions having a higher rating stamped on them than the recent ones.
 
So, what's the ideal reg for hose routing, when using a bungeed secondary?
.[/QUOTE]

I don't know, but i stopped using swivels to make things work on my first stage about 35 years ago..
 
i've been told that the conshelf xiv "breathes like ****" compared to my legend.

thoughts?
 
i've been told that the conshelf xiv "breathes like ****" compared to my legend.

thoughts?

Who told you that ??? The service "TECH"... LOL... " THOUGHTS" .. Who ever told you that doesn't know anything about regulators and how they work and flow air.. I think it's TIME for me to go.... I've done wasted more time then I should have..

Jim...
 
i've been told that the conshelf xiv "breathes like ****" compared to my legend.

thoughts?

I respectfully don't think you understand how regulators are serviced or how they differ.

Perceived work of breathing in a properly functioning regulator is chiefly determined by how the second stage is adjusted. It is possible to discern a difference even with a very small change in adjustment. A regulator that is tuned to open at 0.5" will breathe very easily and well but will be prone to dribbling air, will freeflow easily if not in the diver's mouth, and will be prone to freeflowing if the diver is in an inverted (head down) orientation that places the exhaust above the diaphragm. A regulator tuned to open at, say, 3", will have none of these problems but will breathe extremely poorly. I tune my primary regs to 1-1.5" and my secondary regs to 1.5-2". Tuning tends to drift with both time and use. The passage of time causes the seat to reshape slightly due to cold flow. Use causes it to wear. Either will lead to the reg running hotter (opening closer to 0) and therefore breathing easier. If the reg is tuned fairly hot (closer to 0") to begin with, then time and use will lead it to dribbling air and otherwise behaving badly.

For externally adjustable regs, this can to some extent be compensated for by turning the knob. On my HOG classic, the only externally adjustable reg I have, the knob makes a difference between cracking at around 1" and cracking at around 2.5".

Adjustable or not, the tech who sets up the regs after service (or when new) has to choose a compromise. Set the reg too hot and over time the reg will dribble air and freeflow and the customer will become unhappy. Set the reg too cold and it will breathe badly, and the customer will either not notice or blame the reg. So most techs start out setting regs fairly cold. And that has much more to do with how regs breathe than what brand it says on the sticker.
 
So yesterday a new diver on the boat had what appeared to be a conshelf first stage. The hoses (or at least one was sticking way up off the top the regulator. So we offered to "help" and maybe change a few hoses from different ports so hoses are running down not up where they can get whacked off if the diver is trying to catch lobsters in a ledge.

First we took off the main regulator hose and it had one of those extra large size ports (and matching hose of course).. So I was a little baffled with the large diameter port defining where the primary second stage ges and I though just one HP port, the hose routing options looked limited to me and not something I would like. Was I missing something or do you have to put up with this type of hose routing system (hoses sticking up)?

There are a number of versions of the Conshelf first stage since they were made over some four decades. I have several but my Supreme does not have the 1/2 port. I use a 90 degree swivel to route the BC so I can put one LP hose under my arm/shoulder and one over my shoulder and this routes my SPG down my left side not any different from my Titan LX. My Supreme uses an adapter to go to a 3/8 HP hose.

IMG_2735_zps1puxiodf.jpg


IMG_2736_zpsay239kz2.jpg


This one is set up for long hose and has been this way for 35 years, lol, or at least so long I cannot remember it being otherwise. Not a Supreme, this one has yet different routing:

P1270667.jpg


It is more like the original Titan for house routing. Frankly, some people do not like the conical first stages due to the hose routing (I do) and prefer the L shapes or swivel heads like the Mk5 or current Legend (and I do not). Which speaking of swivels, a swivel on a single LP port is no different than having an entire LP block swiveling as in the Mk V and Legend, either are a potential failure point. Some people are known not to use swivel block firsts in penetration/overhead diving.

N
 
Last edited:
Yeah I guess any swivel is going to wear and fail eventually. At least on a SP first stage the swivel is usually mounted down and won't get smacked around by a careless diver going under a ledge or something.
 
I respectfully don't think you understand how regulators are serviced or how they differ.

Perceived work of breathing in a properly functioning regulator is chiefly determined by how the second stage is adjusted. It is possible to discern a difference even with a very small change in adjustment. A regulator that is tuned to open at 0.5" will breathe very easily and well but will be prone to dribbling air, will freeflow easily if not in the diver's mouth, and will be prone to freeflowing if the diver is in an inverted (head down) orientation that places the exhaust above the diaphragm. A regulator tuned to open at, say, 3", will have none of these problems but will breathe extremely poorly. I tune my primary regs to 1-1.5" and my secondary regs to 1.5-2". Tuning tends to drift with both time and use. The passage of time causes the seat to reshape slightly due to cold flow. Use causes it to wear. Either will lead to the reg running hotter (opening closer to 0) and therefore breathing easier. If the reg is tuned fairly hot (closer to 0") to begin with, then time and use will lead it to dribbling air and otherwise behaving badly.

For externally adjustable regs, this can to some extent be compensated for by turning the knob. On my HOG classic, the only externally adjustable reg I have, the knob makes a difference between cracking at around 1" and cracking at around 2.5".

Adjustable or not, the tech who sets up the regs after service (or when new) has to choose a compromise. Set the reg too hot and over time the reg will dribble air and freeflow and the customer will become unhappy. Set the reg too cold and it will breathe badly, and the customer will either not notice or blame the reg. So most techs start out setting regs fairly cold. And that has much more to do with how regs breathe than what brand it says on the sticker.

Our service tech told me that Conshelf's breathe like s--t compared to modern regs like the Legend. Said that it "only has like 4 parts". And that regs that don't have that many parts breathe like s--t. Also that it's heavy as s--t.
 

Back
Top Bottom