Stevsgarage wants a cool BC

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Leadwieght bubbled...

Of course this raises another issue as to the construction of the weight pockets. If removal requires separating velcro, the velcro wears out and the weight pockets can fall out without warning.

That was the biggest concern I had when I got my BC. Don't know how many manufacturers have gone t it, but mine has a large clip that that connects through a slot "pocket" to the back of the unit. I'd certainly concur with other comments here and recommend staying away form velcro.

OK. May be off topic, but with BP/wing, from what I understand anyway, there is one continuous strap. What/How do you adjust it for different exposure suits? I've seen comments about it being a little dififcult to get set up right, but being great after that. Is this just trial and error till you get it where you want it?

I have a 3mil FJ/Shorty for warm, and a 7mil Neoprene for cold. There's quite a bit of difference (for me anyway) in the amount of bulk.

In a community of 700K people, even in the desert, I'm sure someone here has one, I just haven't seen one actually on soemone to have a first hand look, so I'm curious.

Might be good info for others looking at the option as well.
 
retro cool! us divers and ap valves of the UK still make horsecollars mainly for safety agencies and the military. it's the three-point-play of diving appearance coolness.

cooler still would be a diver wearing an orange fenzy bouee ca. early 70's with its own air bottle.

these fine diving accoutrements will certainly turn a few heads (some of them will be shaking).

OK they choke you some on the surface but at least you'll likely be heads-up on the surface. no d-ring provision, though. but hey, these things ought not stand in the way of "cool."

K

PS i am seriously contemplating on getting myself a horsecollar (i started diving with these in '78) from AP valves just for the heck of it. maybe a double-hose too for those diving days when i feel like lloyd nelson ta-ta-tara-raaaaaa. . . . . (theme from "sea hunt)
 
raybo,

It is a continues strap and is totally adjustable. When it is new it is stiff and a little hard to adjust but after you do it a couple of times it becomes easier to do based on your practice and the strap breaking in.

The strap is run through the slots on the plate and generally held in place by weight retainers (the ones that look sort of like this [|] ) to keep the strap from moving. If you have a thicker suit on you just adjust it so that you have more room in the arm straps. It is hard for me to explain but if I haven't answered your question let us know and I am sure that someone can explain it better.

Chad
 
in my scuba museum...complete with the little CO2 cartridge for 'emergency' inflation...you just fire the cartridge to create an emergency.

Hanging on to it in case my BP/W ever becomes a fashion risk...
 
raybo once bubbled...
What/How do you adjust it for different exposure suits? I've seen comments about it being a little dififcult to get set up right, but being great after that. Is this just trial and error till you get it where you want it?
With plenty of latitude in what is workable.

As Chad said adjustment is made at the lower BP slots ... by increasing the length of the shoulder strap the plate gets looser... by shortening the shoulder strap the plate gets tighter.

The waist strap length is just a function of you putting it through the waist buckle and tightening it.

It is simplicity itself... and could be adjusted very quickly to fit a different sized person/suit. I have several... come on out and I will let you try one.
 
There is one catch to the BP adjustment thing. The adjustment must be made with the rig off. You can't just pull down on the straps in the water until it feels right like a regular BC. Apparantly, BP users master the adjustment process because they learn how the system should feel dry. However, this must take some experience, because I found this aspect to be a bit too frustrating. The webbing is on the stiff side, even after it breaks in, and the stainless hardware is a bit difficult to get a grip on. Again, this is a learning curve issue. While I don't use a BP, some of the set up adjustments (but not shoulder strap adjustment) on my Transpac use similar hardware and I finally got the knack of dealing with webbing.
 
leadweight once bubbled...
The adjustment must be made with the rig off.
The shoulder strap setting is made with the rig off.

However the waist belt through the crotch strap is what brings it all together and that *adjustment* is made with the rig on.

Once set the shoulder straps do not need to be tightened or loosened to get into or out of the rig.... only the waist strap/crotch strap need be undone and the shoulder straps loosen up.

Most folks get this easily enough though a few struggle until shown how to do it. IIRC Scuba446 had a tough time with this.
 
Thanks for the clarification UP. However, I could not seem to get it right. That does not mean other divers won't get it.
 
I'm diving a Zeagle Ranger right now and it is a very durable BC. Actually thought it was "very cool" when I first purchased it.

However after reading all the information and suggestions from folks diving with BP&W I have made the decision to do the Ebay => BP&W shuffle and "do it right" and have it ready by the DIRF class here in March.

The main thing I don't like about the Ranger is the amount of positive buoyancy that is part of the package, with all the padding and such. It seems to trap a bit of air as well. And I'm sure the hydrodynamics are not the best with all that 44# bladder flapping around.

On the positive side: It is very comfortable and the weight integration pockets work fine. The unit is about as durable as you can get and I'm sure it will last the next owner a looonnngg time.:eek:ut:
 
:bonk: I want to thank you for trying to realign my orginal topic.
as soon as I finish trying to weed through the last thread I 'll begin on this one.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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