buy a couple for sure if you make enough
Ditto ^^^
Once I have sizing right (OK'd by couv) I'll make as many as needed. Of course, you all just lit the fire under me to make sure I get them in the mail to couve tomorrow!
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buy a couple for sure if you make enough
Ditto ^^^
So, the piston moves down when pressurized... reducing the internal volume of the ambient chamber. All that is to say "yes, it will bulge when pressurized and suck in when depressurized". IP creep.... did you re-use the same HP seat? and if so, did you mark it so it's clocked the same now as before? If the answers are "yes" and "no" then you may have the piston not seating in the same groove from before, and where the old groove overlaps the new position becomes an escape path for HP air, until the IP gets high enough to drive the piston deeper than the old groove.So I finally hooked it up to a tank. I also noticed when pressurized, the spec-boot bulges, and when depressurized, it contracts. I assume that's what it's supposed to do? That's probably why I made an additional mess the first time I turned it on. The regulator seems to work and breathe fine. I'm getting quite a bit of IP creep, though to be fair I forgot to check the IP creep of this regulator before I started this process.
I suspect I might need to cycle the system a number of times, perhaps even take it on a dive, and then see if there are any air-bubbles.
I didn't know that was a thing. Is the basic idea, that you want the piston to have the same rotation inside the chamber, so it always presses against the seat in the same orientation?So, the piston moves down when pressurized... reducing the internal volume of the ambient chamber. All that is to say "yes, it will bulge when pressurized and suck in when depressurized". IP creep.... did you re-use the same HP seat? and if so, did you mark it so it's clocked the same now as before? If the answers are "yes" and "no" then you may have the piston not seating in the same groove from before, and where the old groove overlaps the new position becomes an escape path for HP air, until the IP gets high enough to drive the piston deeper than the old groove.
Respectfully,
James
The piston is centered in the bore no matter what... the seat carrier is never perfectly centered on the bore (machining tolerances, damnit! lol). So it's more a case of having the seat in the same rotation as when it was removed. If you didn't remove the seat from the carrier, then the question is just if you torqued it to the same clock position in the body. Sounds like a "who knows" lol.I didn't know that was a thing. Is the basic idea, that you want the piston to have the same rotation inside the chamber, so it always presses against the seat in the same orientation?
What's the remedy? Get a new HP seat?
Does anyone have a cheap source of HP MK10 seats? The best I'm aware of is buying an entire mk10-kit from vintagedoublehose.
Ah, so it's the rotation of the carrier . I didn't remove the seat from the carrier, but it's hard to know if the position is exactly the same.The piston is centered in the bore no matter what... the seat carrier is never perfectly centered on the bore (machining tolerances, damnit! lol). So it's more a case of having the seat in the same rotation as when it was removed. If you didn't remove the seat from the carrier, then the question is just if you torqued it to the same clock position in the body. Sounds like a "who knows" lol.
Right now full kits from VDH are the cheapest source I know of. I know Mk5s originally used a flat puck seat... and you could flip it to get another use out of it. I have no Idea what happens if you flip the concave seats!
How bad is the creep? It's probably worth just cycling it a bunch and see if it settles down.
Respectfully,
James